Key Problem

[RatReatta]

im starting to have a problem with i guess the ingition. over the last 2 weeks my car has had increasing starting problems in that it dosent like starting. right now the most prevalent problem is when you turn the key to start it. you know how you have to turn it to a certain point and it kind of clicks and then the starter goes? well my key turns all the way and once the car kicks on you should just be able to let go of it and it would snap back. the problem im experiancing is that the key is getting stuck in the start positing which i know isnt good. does anyone know if this is a sign of a bigger problem or please just let me know i have a spring thats shot. thanks all in advance

[reattadudes]

you have one of two problems here, with the most likely problem being a worn-out ignition switch. if I remember correctly, doesn't your car have a million miles? just imagine how many times the ignition switch has been turned since the car was new.

the second (and less likely) problem could be adjusting the rod that connects to the ignition switch, and runs down the steering column.

as far as installing a new ignition switch goes, this is probably something best left to a locksmith. in order to do it properly, the steering wheel and some components in the steering column must be removed to remove the ignition switch, and requires a special tool.

replacing the ignition switch on 1988-1989 models should not be that expensive, probably less than $100. the 1990-1991 models are more, as they have the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) ignition setup, and the ignition lock itself is more expensive. for some reason, the failure rate of ignition switches on the newer models is essentially non-existant compared to the 1988-1989 models.

Mike

[harry yarnell]

Are we talking the 'switch', or the lock tumbler? Two different items in two different locations.

[RatReatta]

good point about the number of times its been started, im getting closer and closer to 200k miles every day. umm and i was talking about the actual place you put the key in and turn it, it turns to the point it tries to start and then the whole thing sticks there

[Shelby]

Also it might be the neutral safety switch on top of the trans. Those get water in them and cause fits.

[Guest imported_KB905864]

The problem does indeed sound like it is in the ignition switching mechanism. I'm having roughly the same problem but I think it is the rod that runs down the steering column that reattadudes mentioned. The car will not start if the steering column is in the mid to upper position. If I have the column all the way down, (in my lap), it starts as normal. After the car is started, I can raise the steering column with no effect. I do have to lower the column again when I shut off the car because the ignition switch will be hard to turn.

I really don't mind this minor inconvenience because it is like a theft deterrent.

[RatReatta]

ill have to try the tilt ethod tomarrow, im not too sure what it is, i actually think i have a combination of atleast two problems but if that solves one i can deal with that. the other is something different. after i drive somewhere and the trip takes more than about 20 mins if i shut the car off it wont start for a good half hour. it will try to start but dosent, i have good fuel pressure and i think someone said they thought it sounded like a problem with a distributer. it will start 99% of the time when these to factors dont appear. the key thing is almost all the time and the starting problems never happens in the mornings when the car has been sitting all night or even in the afternoon when the car has been sitting in the school parkinglot all day. does the diagnosis of the distributer sound accurate? i wanna see if i cant get this fixed by labor day if at all possible

[Guest wally888]

I had key problems on two previously owned 89's.

Problems were almost identical but one was key would not return to off position thus engine could not be turned off.

I was lucky to find a reasonable/cheap($35) locksmith in a tiny town in middle Ga. In both cases he removed the steering wheel,( a job requiring a puller and a pusher), something for the experienced w/ the right tools. I had no trouble removing the retainer needing a puller however compressing the retainer needing a pusher was beyond me. Harry Yarnell explained here in post and I gave up, looked for locksmith.

Locksmith stated few lock smiths actually work on the tumblers and the switch (good picture in FSM) connected/actuated by a rod from lock(tumbler) to switch(electrical).

I suspect these repairs would have been several hundred dollars at a dealer! They probably would have replaced lock or switch or both.

Good luck!

[padgett]

Huh ? Sounds like a worn out or maladjusted ignition switch and you do not have to pull the tumbler or wheel to replace that, you just drop the steering column and it is on top about 2/3 of the way down.

The 88 manual (page 3B4-10) describes the proceedure. My 89 manual is odd - index references the same 3B4 but there is none in my hardcopy (yes it is a final). Is a close description in 3F4A-11 of the 90 FSM but the 88 is specific - remove the lower column clamp bracket nut and bolt first to avoid cracking the bracket.

Have noticed a number of places where the 88 manual has much more depth than the 89 - wonder why.