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How Can I Fix My Hood On My 1950?


Guest James Conkwright

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Guest James Conkwright

I posted a couple of weeks ago about my hood rubbing the fenders and scraping my paint. Im getting ready to get the car painted and If I cant fix this Im going to have to sell. I cant have a new paint job get messed up the next week. Has anyone converted their hood to a new opening system such as gas shocks etc? Was the rubbing a problem even when they were new? Please help me out. I love my Buick but cant have a problem like this. Thanks<P>James Conkright<BR>1950 46-S

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I'm guessing that over the years this large two-piece hood has spread laterally at the center flange. If I remember right from my uncle's many-years-ago 51 Roadmaster, there are braces at front and rear of hood from the flange to the outer edges. Have you thought about putting a turnbuckle in these braces so you can draw in the lower hood edges away from the fenders? How much gap do you presently have?<P>I sympathise about scratching up new paint, but there is a solution somewhere. Look to the street rod guys- they're always innovating solutions to b-s like this, and several have done early 50s Buicks. You mentioned a gas lift, so I assume you're willing to sacrifice some originality for functionality.

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Guest scott mich bca # 6619

I seem to remember when I had my 1951 that there was a photo in the Shop Manual of the hood being serviced just for your problem.<P>They had some type of clamps. If the hood was too wide, you clamped the hood closer together, from left to right, to make it narrower with these clamps, and hook assembies.<P>There are a lot of moving parts in the hood latch mechanism. Any play or wear will cause the hood to move.<P>There is front & back adjustments on the catches. There are adjusters on the rods, that if you lengthen or shorten them, you can cause the hood pins to "center" better in the catches.<P>If the catches are sitting too low or high due to wear or misadjustment, the hood will move.<P>Make sure you have all of the hood rubber bumpers as well.<P>When all else fails, you may have to simply put that pressure sensitive adhseive felt on the outside edges of the hood, like a 3/4" strip the whole leenght on the hood edges. This will take up the play, and not scratch the paint.<P>It is sold in hardware stores, for lamp bottoms, and furniture, drawers, etc.<P>A tube of touch up comes in handy at the car shows.<P>Scott Mich<BR>Assistant Director<BR>Chicagoland Chapter

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James,<BR>Getting rid of the car is a bit extreme.<BR>I had mentioned in the earlier post that you need to make sure the hood is adjusted correctly. It took my body shop guy over 5 hours to get mins so if doesn't scrape.<BR>As Scott said, get everything correct. It doesn't have to scrape.

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In detailing our engine compartment I noticed that there are two bolts for each hood hinge that can be loosened and the hood can be brought up so that it doesn't rub on the fenders. I have the same problem to a smaller degree and that's what I plan on doing to remedy the situation.<P>As far as selling the car, I would say that's a bit extreeme as well.<P>Check the bolts on the hinges. Losen them and move the hinges up as high as they go. Then, try the hood and see how it fits. If it still rubs then torch the car. Just kidding.<BR>Bring it by a body shop, they may be able to help.<P>Cheers!

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You can do what my Dad did to his Buicks, (he<BR>was a body man for 60 years), place a block of wood on the engine under the hood brace,<BR>put a man/woman on either side of the hood<BR>and gently without too much pressure push<BR>down on outer edges of hood. This will usually fix the problem but be "gentle".<BR>Normally its not the hinges that becomes<BR>mis-aligned. Loren 56 Century

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