88 reatta dead

[grm]

My 88 Reatta died! When i started off it was real sluggish and no power. As i made a turn on an upgrade the car stalled and has not started since. Any subjection?

1. Shows no codes

2. Can hear the fuel pump running

3. Turns over

Thanks grm

[padgett]

Water in gas ? No gas (fuel pump running does not mean it is doing anything) ? Would check for pressure in the fuel rail first.

[Guest Greg Ross]

Was it running rough, sluggish could be failing Coil or Ignition Module

[grm]

When i started out, i could push the gas pedal down and it had no power. When i let off the accelerator it died and hasn?t started since. I checked an it was getting spark from the plugs. It also back fires when cranking. Thanks grm

[ESTAVER]

My '89 suddenly began to feel like it was running on three cylinders. Really bogged down. It turned out to be one of the coil packs and also the coil mounted firing module. It took me a while to figure it out because I also had spark at the plugs and coil terminals that I checked, but the failure was affecting other plugs in the firing order. Since the 3.8 liter engine is a common GM product the parts were regular parts store available. Just under $100 for coil and module. I also had no codes indicating the failure.

[padgett]

Secondary ignition (coilpack, wires, plugs) will not set error. Module sending out wrong signals may not set error.

See my rant on ignition systems.

BTW where did you find a coilpack and module for $100 ? Usually it is that for each.

Sounds like you may have gotten into the crude "get home mode", it will allow that once but once shut off (or dies) it will not restart.

[harry yarnell]

crank sensor. My guess.

[padgett]

Crank sensor is possible and less expensive than ignition. See the "cranks but does not run" trouble shooting charts in section 6E3-A (around page 20) of the factory service manual (available online from www.reatta.net )>

My experience with crank sensors is that when they fail, the engine will not start but Harry has more practical experience than I do.

Life is much simpler with an oscilloscope and a break out box 8*).

Cars seem to be getting to an age when magnets are falling off (part of the reason I run engines cooler than the factory).

[harry yarnell]

The crank sensor is a funny animal. It's like a cranky kid; fussy at one time, then fine the next.They seem to have different failure symptoms also. I replaced one that was causing a nasty miss intermittently, but most show there rath at startup. Crank with no fire. Crank, with backfire. Crank with barely running mimmicking a flood situation. Crank and run fine; not to be trusted.

Yea, I should make up a breakout box, as that would give quantative data to nail the sensor, instead of guessing.

Oh, the harmonic balancer is a slip fit on the code C motors (88-90) and a press fit on the code L motors (91). Requires a weird puller.

The sensor isn't a fun job to replace.Best access is thru the wheelwell. Impact off the harmonic balancer, two bolts holding the sensor in, then you have to wrestle the sensor off it's alignment stud which is usually rusted together. I use matchbook cover cardboard for the gapping on installation.

[grm]

Harry was close, it was the harmonic balancer. The metal part where the woodruff key goes was cracked and it turned on the crank, just enough to throw the timing off. When i replaced the balancer about a year ago i must not have tighten it tight enough. Thank to all, you saved me some down time. grm