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desperate clutch/tranny. help needed!


chub chub

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i just bought a '52 special hardtop. the throwout bearing is shot. it grinds hard going into third only. would replacing the throwout bearing fix this or do i need to get into the transmission (3 speed synchromesh) and replace the synchronizing drum? i've gotten no advice so anything would be greatly appreciated. chub chub wants to terrorize the streets. thanks.

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If a throwout bearing is noisy.it usually is noticable any time you depress the clutch pedal. If the noise is only when you shift into third,I would think it would be the 2-3 synchronizer. You might ask Joe,he would know for sure.

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Guest Straight eight

When I had that problem back in the 40's, the dealer changed the lube in the tranny. Using a heavy lube such as 85- 140 or heavier may help. Also slow down shifting into third. Sometimes when shifting from second to third if you hesitate in neutral, let out the clutch, push it in again, and then shift into third there should be no grinding. Syncronizers are very hard to find, and if shifting a little slower solves the problem, you can be looking for a syncronizer. You also might check the linkage, as the grommets do wear out and detioriate. These trannies really were not made for speed shifting. Right, Joe?

Cliff wink.gif

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Like Straight Eight said....check the shift linkage bushings. These little "turkeys" KILL transmissions if they are shot. The trans will not fully engage the gear when shifting and the load is carried b the syncros, causing fast failure. it also sounds like you may wnat to at least put new bearings in your trans.

Bill

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The first thing to do is check the shifting arm bushings, easiest and cheapest things to check. If that dosen't help then you may have to go into the trans. If you remove the trans, which is a JOB, might as well install new clutch plate and pressure plate , cut flywheel, new throught bering, new rear tourque ball shims. Have an expert look at trans. A lot of work, but when done will last a long time without any problems.

Good luck

Jim Schilf

palbuick@aol.com

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The last trans I pulled out of a Buick was a 52 Super...it took 2 people 45 min to remove it ooo.gif

It can take MUCH longer if you don't know that the two bolts that hold the rear coil spring to the differential are LEFT HAND THREAD frown.gif

If you do remove the flywheel, you will have to remove the oil pan to re-install the bolts for the flywheel. (you can push them back to remove the flywheel, but you can't pull them back out far enough to put the nuts on)

hope this helps and does not make the job sound tooo difficult

Bill

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Hey Chub: You have received some good advice and you should address the problem in the transmission. Several other points:

The grinding going into third is likely not the throw out bearing as it would make noise when engaged to go into first and second. The throw out bearing is only engaged when the clutch is in. You can test the throw out bearing with the car stationary by putting the clutch in with the car standing still. This engages the throw out bearing and allows to you see if it is making noise without the interference of road and other drivetrain noise. It is good to replace it anyway if the clutch is apart. A pressure plate usually makes a shudder and a throw out bearing a squeak or clicking kind of noise. The problem is almost certainly the two brass sychronizers inside the transmission. If the pressure plate is working without problem I could not recommend replacing it unless you have a NOS pressure plate. Reconditioning the pressure plate requires surfacing the face which removes more material and unless it is not flat is unnecessary and will lead to further problems. A facing wears out when enough material is worn away by coming into contact with the rough face of the clutch disk. Having more material removed from the face of a pressure plate which is working fine simply excelerates the problem of wearing out. I could write an epistle on pressure plate problems and if you do not have a problem install and try the pressure plate again before doing anything to it. If you remove the flywheel be sure to mark both the flywheel and end of the crank shaft with a sharp punch as the flywheel can be installed in four (maybe six) different positions with only one position being correct. The timing mark on the flywheel must show through the bell housing hole when the pistons are in the correct position to receive a spark. The car will start with the flywheel in any position but you cannot see the timing mark so as to tune the car unless it is installed in the correct position. Marking the flywheel and crank end is a MUST. Hope this helps. Let us know what you figure out when finished by posting you conclusions. Patrick W. Brooks

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chub chub here. thanks alot to all for your replies. i've been out of town for awhile so i just got them. i haven't had a chance to work on chub chub since it is at my parents house until it's road worthy (parking in san francisco sucks and i have no garage). i know the throw out bearing is shot, it rattles whenever the peddal is in. i also know the shift linkage bushings are shot. i guess my first steps will be to replace them and check and or change the lube in the tranny. if that doesn't solve it, i'll have to go for the synchronizers. it doesn't grind when i double clutch so i'm afraid i may have to do the synchronizers. does anyone have any idea where i might be able to pick those up? i haven't had any luck finding them so far. thanks again for all your replies. they have been very helpful. ---chub chub.

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sorry mrbuick714, i don't understand your post. are you saying you have a sync or two for sale? if so, are they new or reconditioned. do you know if both syncros in the synchromesh are interchangeable or are they different? how much do you want for it (them)? thanks--chub chub.

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  • 4 weeks later...

live and learn. sometimes the most obvious solution is overlooked. yes, the problem was gear oil. there was only about a shot glass full in the tranny. i drained and refilled it and it helped so much. i also replaced the shift linkage bushings but the problem was obviously no gear oil. now it shifts great, not fast but still much better. now my problem is overheating. at about 55mph (i don't know for sure, the spedo. doesn't work) it overheats after about 10 miles. it has a new water pump and hoses. i pulled the thermostat and tested it. it seems to work fine. i even tested the car without it. it still overheated. the radiator cap seems to hold proper pressure, but i get alot of draining out of the overflow.i think the timing is still off but from what i understand this only raises the temp a few degrees. i'm not sure what to check next.any ideas?

thanks again

chub chub

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