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chub chub

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Everything posted by chub chub

  1. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">if you run the back pipe in the regular position, and the front one under the pan , you should have no clearance problem </div></div> I don't exactly follow. From front to back, I have the generator, motor mount, single exhaust pipe, then shift linkages. You're saying run one exhaust pipe where it is, and where does the other one go to get under the pan? Sorry, I couldn't get my pic. attached.
  2. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While you wont find someone to make your headers, they are not hard to make yourself if you can fabricate and weld. Check out Headers by Edfor lots of opinions, information and parts. </div></div> At this point I can't make them myself, but some day.... thanks for the info and I welcome more.
  3. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> You are correct that the 41 system will require motor mount work. Splitting the stock manifold is something that has been done in the past, and they sound COOL!! It makes a very different sound, </div></div> The one you heard, was it split 3/5 or 4/4? I'm starting to wonder if I can even fit anything dual exhaust without motor mount work. See I forgot to mention I have the 3 on the tree synchromesh transmission and there is hardly any room between the motor mount and shift linkages. Any advice?
  4. The exhaust in my '52 special (263 straight 8) has some leaks that I'm tired of temporarily patching. I would like to get a little better performance with dual exhaust and eventually dual carbs. My ideal setup would be headers. I can't find any, and I can't find anyone to make a custom set. My second choice would be a split manifold from a '41 or '42, but from what I'm told you have to cut and modify the motor mount to use one of these. A third option is to split the existing manifold (3 cylinders to one pipe and 5 cylinders to another). Have any of you done this, and how does it sound and perform? The last and least desirable option is to use the existing manifold and use a Y pipe to split the exhaust before the mufflers. Does this do anything to help it breathe, improve performance, or make it sound louder and better? I'm quite frustrated and haven't been able to get any real awnsers. Please help. thanks, scott
  5. chub chub

    BJA F88!!

    sorry, i don't even know what cars you are talking about. does anyone have any pics they could share with the ignorant?
  6. you can try buick world at (360) 825-3787 but i don't know for sure. they do specialize in pre 1960 buick parts.
  7. a great place to search for cars for sale is www.collectorcartraderonline.com as far as parts... once you have the car, buick world specializes in pre 1960 buick parts, however, it sometimes takes a while for them to locate and ship the parts. they can be reached at (360) 825-3787. as far as once you have the parts... the best resource on the internet by far for any old skool car questions is the H.A.M.B. it is the message board that can be found at www.jalopyjournal.com there are people there that can answer any question about anything!
  8. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Talk old Buicks, talk that mean and hungry look. And the 1939 front grill treatment was, in my opinion, the meanest and hungriest ever. </div></div> i think the '52 was pretty mean and hungry too! see the attachmment.
  9. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I give you... THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BUICK EVER.... </div></div> great! where and when can i pick it up?
  10. the manifold is nearly touching the inner fender, not the frame. i'm not sure about the '65, but on my '63 with the 283 transplant, i have a little more room on the drivers side than the pass. side. as far as if it's a spread bore? i don't know. i'll see if i can find out.
  11. i've got an aluminum intake on it. as far as the carb, it is 600cfm, do you think it's too much? thanks again.
  12. thanks for the info twitch, not that i don't trust you, but what problems arise when you go larger than 1 5/8" on the primary?
  13. i have a 63 nova with a 283ci engine transplanted into it. i'm looking to install headers but am worried about clearance since the stock manifolds already rub slightly against the side of the engine compartment. does anyone know what headers i can use and avoid this problem? thanks in advance,
  14. i just found a great place to look up buick part numbers. try this link, if it doesn't work i'll try to post it so it does. (i'm still learning about computers and cars from the 50's). http://doonan.home.mindspring.com/BUICK.doc
  15. it seems like almost everyone is saying to check the ground connection. this doesn't seem to explain the flash of all lights as much as the voltage regulator theory, but believe me i will check both. i had to leave the car at my parents house but i'm going to have my dad check a couple of things. only the parking lights in the front work now (and they aren't on when the headlights are on). basically, everything that was getting electricity at the time of the spike is no longer working. i'll have my dad try to start it and see if anything happens. i'm also going to have him inspect bulbs to see if the spike simply blew them all. any other ideas would be appreciated. thanks as always! scott
  16. hello, i've been having battery/starter problems with my '52 special. it is original 6 volt, pedal starter. it sounds like the battery is low, or the starter isn't cranking fully. it will turn over a couple of times very slowly and then nothing. i sometimes jump it with the 12 volt from my nova. sometimes it helps but sometimes it does the same slow turn over and then nothing routine. it seems to help to leave the car in gear (clutch out) and give it a crank. after that, put the clutch in, crank it, and it tends to start. after replacing a bad freeze plug this weekend, i took it for another test drive (my first ever at night with the headlights on). i was in second gear (winding it out a bit) and a half a second before i put the clutch in to shift into third, my headlights and all of my dash lights flashed super bright. once the clutch was in and i shifted into third, everything was fine. a couple of miles later i entered the local 2 lane highway. once i got into third and hit what i suspect was about the same rpm., i got the same flash from all lights and then they all went out. i had to make a u turn on the highway and drive back (luckily only a short distance) with no headlights, tail lights or brake lights. i could find no blown fuses or fried wires. but it was dark and i was looking with a flashlight. i finally decided to call it a night. any ideas what the problem(s) are. did i screw somthing up by jumping it with a 12 volt battery? ok, i need your help and expertise. as always, thanks in advance.
  17. thanks again to all who responded. i was hesitant to knock the plug fully into the water jacket, so i spent a lot of time trying to pull it out once it was punctured. after much time and frustration, i decided to push it through and spent only 20 seconds retrieving it. lesson learned... trust the experts. i cleaned out as much muck as possible, then installed the new plug (at an angle) and had to remove it. this time it took about two minutes. i got it right the second time with my spare plug. i sealed it with permatex #2. i took it for a test drive and when i returned the replacement plug was solid. however, as true to the nature of chub chub, once i fix one thing, a new problem arises on the test drive. thanks for your help and you can catch the next tale of chub chub in a new post under the topic of "52 electrical storm"
  18. thanks so much. i hope to get it done this weekend and your info is very helpful. i'll let you know how it goes. scott
  19. i am hoping to do this project on friday, so if someone can tell me how to access this article in the bugle or just awnser my question i would appriciate it. thanks again. scott
  20. any advice on the best way to remove a freeze plug just below the manifold on a 52 special? also, when installing the new one, is any sealent needed, or is it just a matter of pounding the new one in? thanks in advance.
  21. as i alyways suggest (because it's my primary source for my '52 buick), try buick world in enumclaw wa. however it can sometimes take a while for him to find and ship parts. the number is (360) 825 3787.
  22. wow! good luck with that! buick world in enumclaw wa. may be able to help, i just hope you're not in a hurry. it sometimes takes him a while to locate and ship parts. they specialize in buick parts up to 1960. you can call at (360)825-3787.
  23. i usually would never break topic... but since you brought up the world series... i have to say, thank you boston for ending the curse! THANK YOU.
  24. personally i like the idea. i also use the www.buicks.net forum. i appreciate that they have a category for straight eights. you may want to check them out for ideas. as far as a performance section, i personally would post under straight eights, but the s-8 is a very different monster. others may prefer a performance section.
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