Head Gaskets

[Buickboat]

Just blew the driver's side head gasket on my 66 toronado. Was tuning the carb, and she went. I decided I might take it to a local shop to do the job, as I am a little short on time, I decided against this when he quoted $320. I buy the parts. Hah, so I will be doing this myself. I've done quite a few on L6 and 4cyl, is there anything special I need to watch out for? As far as parts go, I think I've got everything I need if I buy two exhaust gaskets, two head gaskets, and the intake gasket/valley pan gasket. Does anyone know the torque numbers on the intake exhaust and head bolts? I appreciate any suggestions, thanks!

[rocketraider]

80 ft-lb on the head bolts, 35 on the intake manifold, 25 on the exhaust manifold.

Cylinder head torque sequence- start at the two middle bolts and work outward, clockwise.

Intake manifold- start at the four end bolts and work inward, clockwise.

Hope your luck with exhaust manifold bolts is better than mine usually is.

Spray some copper gasket sealer on both sides of the intake gasket port area, and don't spare the RTV at the corners of the end seals. You can always wipe off any excess once everything's set in place.

Make sure you've got some help. These intakes are HEAVY and awkward to handle by yourself. I usually leave the heater valve and the thermostat housing on to have something to grab it by. Also recommend a Victor/DANA intake gasket. I've never gotten a Fel-Pro to fit or seal right.

An electric drill with some scotchbrite cookies does an awesome job cleaning things up.

Judge for yourself, but I'd be inclined to do a valve job while the heads were off.

Have fun! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

[Sgt Art]

One way to help you align the intake manifold (because that sucker is heavy - I went to aluminum for that reason) is take two bolts that are a little longer then the ones that hold it in place. Saw of the heads of the bolts and slot them for a screw driver. Using just finger pressure, screw them in a few turns into the cylinder heads. These studs will now act as pilots for the intake manifold and assist you in getting it lined up right. After you're satisfied all is correct, snug a couple bolts in place and back the studs out with a screw driver. If using a cookie sheet or valley pan gasket on the intake to head, Permatex makes a product that is painted on both sides of the gasket for the intake ports only. The end ports are for coolant circulation and as Glenn noted, use the silicon there. I normally allow all to set up a couple hours before adding coolant and before firing it up, I spin the engine over a few seconds with all spark plugs out to blow out any coolant that might have leaked into the cylinder(s). Go slow, take your time...oh, one more thing, run a tap into all threaded areas to make sure the threads and holes are clean.