How to free the clutch?

[RoadsterRich]

As a follow up to the "Mr. Miles Wild Ride" post...

Now that I know the clutch won't disengage (won't release), is it possible to free it without dropping the transmission? The transmission was freshly rebult (according to the PO) shortly before the car was parked in the warehouse it sat in for 20+ years. I know I should drop the transmission, and eventually will, in the meantime I'd like to move the car around on ocassion without breaking my back. So any of those "tricks" ya'll have up your sleeves would be greatly appreciated...

I really would prefer a more controlled ride for the 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster, during the next 'trial run'.

Rich

[Guest BillP]

Try to get some brakes working, either service or hand. Put the car in top gear, depress the clutch pedal, stand on the brakes and bump the starter with ignition disabled. Be advised you may break something other than the clutch loose. However, it has worked for me.

[Dave@Moon]

I've seen it done to an old junker with no battery by (gently) pushing the car (in high gear) with another vehicle, using old tires as a heavy cushion between the cars. If the engine starts to turn instead of the clutch disengaging I think you're stuck with Bill's method. Of course the same goes if body damage is a possiblity.

[Guest imported_oldmitchell]

Put the rear end up on stands, crank in nuetral and run until car is at operating temp. Shut it off and then let it heat soak for 30 minutes or so. Crank it again in gear then apply the brakes while depressing the clutch. It usually works.

[Jay Wolf]

Have you checked to make sure the linkage is working?

Have you checked that the throw-out bearing hasnt fallen through the fingers?

Have you check to see if any fingers are broken?

As far as how to free it, it depends greatly on what type of clutch it is,

On the old 2 disk floater, I would think rotating the adjustment housing would free it. I would take it way out of adjustment to the loose or slip side.

On a modern clutch (1954), I had stuck I found the flywheel bolts had backed off and were jamming against the clutch, that happened driving down the road, when I went to stop the clutch wouldn?t disengage.

[RoadsterRich]

Thanks for the input so far...

According to the owners manual:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The clutch is of the single dry plate type, comprising a pressure plate assembly having six pressure springs, three release levers that are provided with knurled nut adjsutments spring-locked, and a drop-forged hardened steel splined hub. A spring-cushioned driving disc, having asbestos composition facing rivited to it, serves as the transmission driving member.

A sliding sleeve carries the clutch release bearing. This bearing should be lubricated with medium cup grease every 2000 miles from a compression grease cup on the right side of the engine rear support. The cup should be given a few turns, then the clutch released for a few seconds with the engine running and the operation repeated in order to pack the bearing thoroughly.

The clutch must be operated dry. A hole is drillled in the bottom of the housing to permit any small leakage of oil, from rear crankshaft bearing, clutch release bearing, or transmission, to drain off. </div></div>

I also noticed that the manual refers to the "Clutch hand hole cover". Which is a large cover with two screws holding it on, between the shifter and the engine block. I'll pull that and see if it gives me a view to what may (or may not) be going on.

I'll post back as I learn more...

Rich

[RoadsterRich]

I removed the cover plate and have a decent view of the clutch assembly.

When I depress the clutch pedal, the clutch release fork moves. It moves the clutch release bearing, which travels roughtly 3/4" before the clutch pedal is to the floor. The clutch release levers (all 3 of them) move as the clutch release bearing presses against them.

From my rudimentary understanding, it looks like it is properly functioning to this point. The adjustments appear to be close to those listed in the owners manual. I will tweak them, however I suspect these aren't the issue.

Besides seeing the levers move, should I see movement in the pressure plate as the clutch pedal is depressed and released?

Rich

[Jay Wolf]

So it sounds pretty much like a modern clutch.

Usually the amount the pressureplate/clutch move is not easy seen by eye.

Can you get anything in and tap the clutch with then pressure place is released.

On a modem clutch it has to release on both sides.

If you have to: you could always loosen up all the pressure plate bolts and pry or tap the clutch loose.

But by the time you do that it would just about as easy to remove the transmission and find out why it stuck and fix it right.

Most old transmissions aren?t very heavy and come out easy.

[RoadsterRich]

I have two spare transmissions, alas no spare clutch assembly though. I'll try the tap method, if that doesn't work I may just drop the transmission and give it a visual check. There is some light surface rust around on bits, but nothing major that I can see.

Here is the view through the access hole, not a great picture, but best I could do...

Rich

[R W Burgess]

Rich, I have a spare diesel road tractor that sets most of the time. This past winter, the clutch stuck from a combination of moisture and lack of use. I took it to my mechanic(it's easily driven without clutch usage because of the big straight cut gears). He jacked the truck up off the ground, put it in gear, ran it through the gears to top road gear. He then hit the brakes hard! When those big wheels stopped turning suddenly the clutch broke loose. I don't know if the inertia of the smaller tires would prevent this from working, but it's worth a try. Wayne