please help me..87 gn.. its driving me crazy

[buickbert]

ok so when i put my foot in it it does great, until it gets to about 15 psi boost then it sounds like it backfires and it

dumps all the boost. its done this everytime its been above 15 psi, i obviously dont want it to do that and i dont want to

break anything. please help me, anything will help.

p.s. here are the mods if it helps anything,

4.10's in rear

9" art carr converter

shift kit in trans

kenne bell ram air w/ intercooler scoop

lowered 1 inch w/ bilstiens

headers (kenne bell i think)

after cat duals

atr stage 4 kit??????? whatever that is

i bought the car and those reciepts came with it

once again anything helps thanks for info

robert petrone

87 gn

72 skylark 350 w/ 455 and much more

[BUICK RACER]

Robert, I'm not sure about this, but the first thing I would check is the ignition coils, should be around 13K on a ohm meter, I'm also going to forward this post to my friend turbodave231@comcast.net For his input, he's been on vacation for the last week so may take him a few days to respond, but I'll let you know!

[HurstGN]

Robert,

First off, if you don't have "TurboLink" or DirectScan", it's gonna be a little tough to troubleshoot, let alone do ANY tuning on this car at all. The turbo 6's are a dream once setup right, but if a sensor is off just a hair, it'll be a nightmare. So, if you don't have one of the aforementioned scan tools, get one! You'll not regret it.

Now, for some obvious stuff you can check without a scan tool.

<ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*] Check the intercooler hoses to see if one is blowing off and semi "reseating" once the boost is blown off. This problem typically is evidenced at lower boost levels like 5 PSI, but possible at 15 too.[*] Does the car have an engine tie down strap, or better yet, HR Parts engine mounts? If not, go for the engine mounts. These are the best solution to the engine torquing over on itself and causing problems with sensors.[*] Along the torque over lines, check the positive battery cable as it heads down to the starter. It may be contacting metal and shorting to ground as the motor torques over. When this happens, everything goes to hell real fast. This is very hard to see, so inspect it carefully. If it's your problem, it's an easy fix to reroute the cable away from the problem area.[*] If the grounds have not been extended from the rear of the passengers head, check to see the ground connection there is tight and clean. If it's not, this will cause you to chase your tail for months looking for gremlins that don't exist.[*] Does the car have a blowoff valve? Buick didn't use a blowoff valve on these cars. A misadjusted blowoff valve will cause a problem like this as well.

These are what come to mind right away. While some GN guys are here, there is far more expertise on Turbo 6 Power website. Might want to look in over there and register.

Oh, if you still have the Kenne Bell ram air kit, does it have the plastic housing around the air filter still? If it does, remove the housing and just allow the cool air duct to come up to the filter to get air in. Until you hit 90 mph, that housing is a restriction and the air duct acts like a vacuum cleaner because the engine is trying to breathe in way more air than is getting thru that hose. First time I took mine off, I found I was vacuuming the roadways with all the garbage clogged up in mine. I found multiple cigarette butts, and a lightbulb sucked up into my filter housing. Trash that housing and let the car breathe better. Like the old joke goes... "How do you breathe thru that thing?"

Hope this helps.

[Turbo Loyd]

[color:\\"blue\\"]My 86 GN did that for about a year and my local mechanic nor the Buick dealer could fix it. I solved this problem by joining the GSCA to find folks who knew about these cars and went to my first Nationals. My first Nationals got me hooked.

The first thing to check is the rubber tubing on the waste gate actuator. Make sure all three pieces of tubing are in place. Mine got oil soaked and would not stay on the nipple on the turbo. Used a hose clam for a temporary fix. Might as well get new hoses and the restrictive Y piece from one of the Turbo Regal vendors, if yours is older.

Second like Roberta indicated check the coil pack. If the turbo 6 sticker is on the passenger end of the coil pack (meaning the car probably has the original coil pack), it is way over due for replacement. That turned out to be the problem with my car. The resistance checked out OK, but the spark grew weak at higher RPMs. John Spina with Caspers developed a tool for testing the coil packs through the entire speed range of the engine.

Good luck these are great cars, but frustrating when they do not run right.