Turbo Loyd

Was the clearance between the oil pump gears and the cover with the oil filter checked. There are several gaskets available to make this clearance on spec and if not right you will not have sufficient oil pressure. What is the oil pressure?

Will bolt right onto the engine, as long as you have a BOP TH 400 transmission. Will have to move the crossmember back and get a drive shaft that is shorter and has the TH 400 yoke. Takes more HP to operate a TH 400.

[color:\\"blue\\"]There should be no problem with caping off the extra outlet on the front wheel circut and only using the other. The combination valve will operate properly. The instructions for many of the line lock installations outline this very step. Hope that helps

Here is a source for housings: Strange Engineering make a G-Body differential now http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/072.html As you have probably guessed since G=Body 8.5 differentials were only offered in Turbo Regals from 84 thru 87 and Oldsmobile 442s in the approximate same years they are scarce. Lot more G-body buildups than Turbo Regals produced.

I would use the flexplate from the engine you are installing as these engines are usually externally balanced. The torque converter should bolt right up to the flexplate. The bellhousing for the FWD engines all use the Chevy 60 degree pattern, with the smaller torque convertor. Good luck that looks like a great project.

Your 1963 Riviera should have a Carter AFB in it. This sounds like a typical Rochester Quadrajet problem. If your car has a Quadrajet the fuel well plugs are possibly leaking. If they are leaking you are having to fill the fuel bowl with the fuel pump before the car will start. If the leak is slow you will be fine for starts for the remainder of the day. The best way to fix them is to use an epoxy to seal both wells. The wells are located under the bottom of the fuel metering rods. To access them you have to pull the carb out of the car and remove the base plate. Here is some good basic information on 1967 and up Q=jets from George Nenadovich's website: Rochester Quadrajet Common Problems and Decoding Here is a Car Craft article which include a section on using exoxy to seal the fuel well plugs. 66 Buick Q-jet rebulding

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">By observation, from what I saw come in on new cars of that era, the bulk of the A/G body cars were 7.5" ring gear diameter axles. The GNX did come with the 8.5, but the normal, garden variety cars had 7.5" axles (including GNs and other turbo models). This started with the downsize of that platform in 1978. The 7.5" axles were later expanded to S-series small pickups (S-10) and the Gen3 F-body in 1982. . . . . Although both the 7.5" and 8.5" rear axles are interchangeable as assemblies in the particular platforms, they had completely different brake systems attached to them (whether rear drum or rear disc). The only thing that would interchange between them, internally, is the grease. Main visual difference is the shape of the rear axle cover and gasket. . . . . Happy hunting! NTX5467 </div></div> [color:\\"blue\\"] Having owned a 1986 GN since 1989 and a 1986 Regal Limited since 1996, I will add that from 1984 to 1987 Turbo Regals had the Corporate 8 1/2 differential as Oldsmobile 442s from the same years. This was not an exclusive GNX differential. It is very difficult to eye the differences between a 7 1/2 differential in a standard Regal and the 8 1/2 used in the Turbo Regal of the last four model years. The cost differences between an a 7 1/2 differential and the 8 1/2 are such that many of our members have found the weaker differential in their car when it broke shortly after they purchased the car. These units did not come in the car, but replacement with a 7 1/2 happens. I generally look for the square lugs at the bottom corners of the 8 1/2 inch differential housing used in a Turbo Regal or Olds 442 to differentiate it from the standard differential. When I upgraded the daily driver Regal Limited from the 7 1/2 differential to the 8 1/2 the entire unit bolted right in as NTX5467 indicates. The brake shoes and drums from the Limited fit right into the Turbo Regal's differential. These systems use identical backup plates and the axle spacing to the backup plates are the same. The rest of the information is good

Mid 80s "B" bodies had the corporate 8 1/2 inch 10 bolt differential. Well worth pulling out if a series two posi-traction unit. All you need to know was written by George Nenadovich in the following. How to Find and Remove 8.5" GM Posi Carriers The corporate 8 1/2 carriers showed up in Buick "A" bodies in 1971 and in Turbo Regals in 1984, therefore are very useful finds. Hope this helps

[color:\\"blue\\"]While the intake streams and exhaust streams always pass through the turbo, it is usually spinning relativley slowly, a heavy exhaust flow is required to spin the turbine wheel fast enough for the compressor wheel to really compress the inlet charge. Of course you control the amount of air passing through the system with the throttle. It is really difficult to resist the urge to mat the go petal thought, at least for me . . . . so that is why adjustment of the waste gate to provide a level of boost to support the octane of the fuel is necessary.

[color:\\"blue\\"] At one of Chicagoland's tech sessions, Tony DeQuick indicated radiators lose about 7% efficiency a year due to deterioration/corrosion of the solder joints between the tubes and fins. Something to keep in mind when driving around with an older radiator. He also indicated a fan is adequate if at an idle a dollar bill will stick to the grill and not slide off. A surfactant or water wetter generally does not work with antifreeze well, but works great without antifreeze mixed in. Get a thicker radiator (ie four core) when replacing the old one and make sure you have a seven blade fan with a clutch fan mechanism having a thermostat lockup. These will engage the fan at highway speeds if the temperature at the center of the fan is high enough. Make sure there is a shroud between the radiator and fan blade. The center lone of the fan blades should be at the edge of the shroud for maximum efficiency If you do not have an air dam under the radiator, add one. It helps to draw the air through the radiator at highway speeds and prevents the hot air from migrating forward to the inlet of the radiator when idling in traffic. Be sure to add a transmission cooler ahead of the radiator. It will pull a lot of the heat out of the fluid before it enters the cooler within the radiator. Be sure to add this cooler out of the path of air into the radiator or you may lose more efficiency. Just some random ideas I have used in getting my Regal to run cooler.

[color:\\"blue\\"]Regals have standard G-body brakes with disks up front and drums in the back. The compression ratio is 8 to 1. With the waste gate rod loose regular will be fine, but the car is no fun to drive. You could use alcohol injection to supplement the 87 octane when the need for a little boost kicks in.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">'86 Park Avenue and am wondering if theres any performance parts avalable for it</div></div> [color:\\"blue\\"]A supercharged Buick V6 from a late 90s or 2000s Pontiac GTP or Buick makes a great Performance upgrade. Use the transmission, wiring harness, computer and all the sensors from the donar car. Smoking ET Street drag radials on the front wheels are a hoot.

[color:\\"blue\\"]Many guys get into the deep 10's or better with stock manifolds. From what I understand many of the aftermarket headers make it difficult to remain in closed loop since the O2 sensor runs cooler when idling around town. Unless you are in a race mode only looking to go faster than the 10s I would stick to the stock turbo Regal headers and spend the $800 plus on an upgrade intercooler, GT series turbo, larger injectors or a Terry Houston downpipe. The main weakness with the stock set up is the weld where #5 cylinder is joined into the #3 pipe. It always cracks there. Getting it welded right is difficult for most welders and then you have port out the inside since a partial blockage may be introduced.

[color:\\"blue\\"]Being a heavily modified Turbo Regal owner who has been attending BCA events for a few years now, I've concluded the mainstream BCA will never embrace modified cars, and may at best tolerate them. Purity of the restoration is the charter of the club, and the points system is a reflection of the attitude. It took me a long time to appreciate this, but after several sessions of heated arguments over the something as simple as the color of a fuel line in a stock restoration (debate was the line installed after the engine was painted or painted the same color as the engine). The purists did not like my response that it should be stainless steel since it looks better and should stay that way. Great club a lot of great guys and where else can you go to events and not get lost in the sea of Chevys, but there definitely is baggage. In the early 90s Shari and I took our Grand National to a Chicagoland BCA car show and we were all but ignored as if we came in a Japanese car. We parked in the guest area and interestingly enough when we were on the other side of the lot a gaggle of the BCA folks went to look at the Turbo Regal, but would not talk to us. Now at least most members talk to us and are friendly so we have come a long way. Obviously performance modifications are here to stay and the BPG or GSCA are other all Buick clubs you may chose to participate in if the ?baggage? turns out to be more than you can tolerate.

[color:\\"blue\\"]My understanding the original carbs were 600 CFM Carters. It is some of the linkage pieces that are hard to get, to make this set up work correctly, let alone the air cleaner. Good luck

[color:\\"blue\\"] Found the information you are looking for with a number of other engines at: Engine Weight FYI Hope that helps

[color:\\"blue\\"]You might try a 7 blade fan and make sure the fan clutch is working properly. The centerline of the fan should be right at the back edge of the fan shroud. This will work much better that the fan near the radiator without a shroud. Had a cooling specialist tell me that there should be enough air moving at idle, to hold a dollar bill againt the grill without it sliding down. The daily driver started overheating when stuck in traffic on the expressway, this summer on relatively mild days. One day when the window was down heard a strange noise. Turned out to be the clutch fan mechanism rattling. It was totally shot and the fan blade was not turning fast enough to cool the radiator down.

[color:\\"blue\\"]Stock 455 exhaust manifolds can be ported and will accept a 2 1/2 head pipe. Each manifold has a single outlet, so no cross over concerns. I've seen Greg Gessler drop a tennis ball into a ported Buick manifold. Add an X system behind ported manifolds with 2 1/2 inch head pipes and you should not lose that much power compared to headers and avoid the hassle.

[color:\\"blue\\"] Yawn . . . is this turning into the BCA "keep it original at all costs", versus the GSCA or BPG "yeah but it could be faster and chrome is always a good thing" argument? Extremism either way will be argued forever with each side maintaining his way is the best. Value is in the eyes of the beholder and if one wants to modify his ride so be it. Particularly if it is as cool as BqUICK's Faithful Pursuit. Want an indication of how most of us feel, just look at the number of views and posts about this car. It has been fun watching the progress, and learning a little history to boot. Frame off restorations even ones faithful to the mistake of the manufacturer will not sell for the cost of the investment, so comparing the relative value of this Electra that definitely pleases a lot of folks to a stock or even modified Gran Sport is not worth the effort. It either pleases you or it does not. Want an idea of how many fans of Buick B bodies?, Rivera?s or similar cars there are? Follow the activity in the V8Buick board under ?Boat Load of Fun?. Most questions raised are about modifying these cars. Just enjoy the ride

[color:\\"blue\\"] 455 mounts from an early 70 big car will make the engine sit higher. You could use the TA permormance motor pads which make it sit lower. A slick set up is to use a 200R4 and get it built to take the brute torque of the 455. Now you have overdrive as well.

[color:\\"blue\\"]We have an Torque Tech X system on Shari's GS and I have installed a system for a Turbo Regal with dual mufflers and tail pipes on a friends car. These system fit very well. Call Keith at Torque Tech (800-408-0016) he has excellent fitting 2 1/2 diameter mandrel bent tail pipes for your car. Please use the side outlet type that was used on Turbo Regals and not straight back like the Monte Carlos. Torque Tech web site If you find an HEI distributor for a 1974 or later Buick 350, all you have to do is swap out the gear at the bottom for the one from your 455 and it will fit perfectly. Good inexpensive upgrade. We got ours from a U-pull it for $25.

So the 383 is a Chevy 350 with a 400 crankshaft. Is it a 4 bolt main 350 ?

[color:\\"blue\\"]Could this have something to do with the problem: Question: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"I have a 455 and would like to use `69 and earlier 430 (400) heads, what do I need to do?" </div></div> [color:\\"blue\\"]Answer: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The 455 engines oiled the rocker assemblies through the pushrods, where as the `69 and earlier heads oiled the rockers by use of passages through the block and into the heads eventually entering a hollow rocker shaft and weeping into the rockers through passages. The 455 engines only have the oil passage on the drivers side (LH), so oiling the rockers MUST be done through the pushrods. The oil passage on the driver's side of the 455 block must be tapped and plugged with a flush pipe plug, no modifications are necessary for the heads. If using 455 rocker assemblies, use the 455 lifters and pushrods. If using the 430 (400) rockers use the 455 lifters and hybrid pushrods that incorporate the 455 ball end at the lifter end and a 430 (400) ball end on the rocker end. Do NOT use 455 pushrods with the 430 (400) rockers, the ball end is too small and will wear and eventually break through the rocker pushrod cup. </div></div> [color:\\"blue\\"]From the TA Board . . . . Just a random thought T A Performance FAQ

[color:\\"blue\\"]This event is next week. Difficult to believe nobody from this board is going there.

[color:\\"blue\\"]From way back in my youth when most of us had generators and the new fangled technology were alternators, I recall something about having to polarize a newly installed generator. Unfortunately I do not recall the details, but here is a website that seems to cover some of the basics. These tests are for 12V generators. [color:\\"blue\\"]Hope this helps