mikebob Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 '75 Custom Cruiser - 455Have a 140,xxx mile Custom Cruiser that smokes light grey smoke while it is warming up (smokes out the neighborhood, neighbors must hate me!). Rebuilt the carb with the same results. My current theory is there is a valve problem, either at the seals under the valve covers, or the valve seats on the bottom of the heads... Pretty sure there is a timing problem too, as the timing indicator piece is not there, i.e. M.I.A.. I don't suppose there is any way to time a car without the indicator...?I will probably be hitting the junk yard for that part when I get time, but it's worth asking!!Thanks as always!Mike'68 Toronado'75 Custom Cruiser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt Art Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Well, your car is over 21 so it has every right to smoke if it wants - try to prevent it from chewing though. Seriously, it may well be worn valve guides or seals. It's not that hard of a job to do. I used compressed air to hold the valves up the last time I changed seals, but I'm told you can use a soft piece of rope pushed through the spark plug hole until the rope holds the valve up. Get a spring compressor tool, they make cheap ones and do the job. It's kind of slow going, but well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebob Posted September 25, 2003 Author Share Posted September 25, 2003 Yeah, been there - done that have the spring compressor tools! That's the route I'm going to go for now! I'm going to pick up the adapter for the air compressor to hold the valves shut... I guess it will be a decent test of my piston rings... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" />For the timing issue... Mr. Balancer Gasket Timing Tape seems to be the answer until I can get one from the yard. A few people I have talked to use degree tape with their stock indicator (on their corvettes <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Albert Posted September 25, 2003 Share Posted September 25, 2003 Check the plugs and see if one plug is worse than any other, as well as do a compression test. I changed a friends 350ci years ago that was burning oil real bad, but found out after I took the head off what had happened. It was burning transmission Fluid! The seal/diapharm in the vaccuum modulator had let go and sucked the tranni fluid into the intake manifold makes nice smoke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebob Posted September 30, 2003 Author Share Posted September 30, 2003 So, I've done a bit of work since the last post... The valve seals are terrible, so I got some new ones. I pulled off the passenger side valve cover and the horror I beheld! The valve cover was completely full of oil (that can't be good!) which spilled all over the floor. The head is completely clogged up with gunk. I pulled off the intake manifold and the same thing, big-time gunk! I don't know if the oil was NEVER changed in the car's life, or if something else (maybe the sand of the Arizona deserts?) caused it, but OH MY GOD it is really bad. I fear what the bottom half looks like. It is my idea that I am going to have to yank to motor out in order to do a correct job of this. The cleaning alone is going to be brutal! I guess some good news is that the passenger-side coolant plug came off relatively easily and flowed very well. So, at least the coolant system is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt Art Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 Yep. I'd say if things are that gunked, some of the oil galleys maybe clogged too. Sounds like a project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 I'm just glad someone thinks enough of one of these beasts to spend this kind of time and money on it. Lotta people say "it's just a big ugly <span style="font-weight: bold">station wagon</span> " but I have a soft spot for them. I used a 76 for a daily driver for many years and it never quit until one day it developed a heavy rod knock. With nearly 200k on it, I knew it owed me no service at all.You may be able to clean the lifter valley and rod out the head drainback holes and get by. Then use a good quality oil and filter along with some Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone for a few thousand miles and see if things improve. If not and the car is nice, go ahead and do the job right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebob Posted October 3, 2003 Author Share Posted October 3, 2003 I am going to pull the engine and start the cleaning, declogging process. The engine is ready to be pulled and will be this weekend.Wish me luck <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebob Posted October 6, 2003 Author Share Posted October 6, 2003 Well, I pulled the motor out this weekend and plan on beginning the cleaning / rebuild process... If anybody has any recommendations on things I should do while I am at it, please let me know.Attached is a pic of the valley to look at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt Art Posted October 6, 2003 Share Posted October 6, 2003 It's got a lot of coked on oil. I would say a complete rebuild would be in order. If it were mine, I'd strip it completely down and take it to a machinist/engine shop. Let them hot tank it, mic the cylinders to see how taper there is (you may need an overbore), R&R the cam bearings and go through the heads. The shop could mic your crank and polish it if necessary. Hopefully, the journals aren't scored or damaged. It might be worthwhile to have them recon the big end of the rods too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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