RoadsterRich Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Well I haven't had time to work on the Roadster most of the summer due to family obligations. I'm finally squeaking in a little work. I'm prepping the frame and engine for paint (frame still has those pesky welds I have to dress up, hope to get to them next week). I bought some enamel in the proper color for my engine, the supplier shipped it with Medium Reducer (Dupont 441-21) and with "Super Wet Look" acrylic enamel catylst (Transtar Classic 8105).For a 1930 Engine block just how much of a gloss should be used? I'm thinking that super wet look will be extremely glossy and not likely to represent the original paint even remotely accurately. What would the proper catylst be? The color is a grey-green (actually Ford Meadow Green), and it is a Dupont paint. I was dismayed to get the super-wet look catalyst from a source that is suppose to be savy about antique cars. In any event I'm looking for input on what catalyst I should be looking for.Thanks,Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadsterRich Posted August 8, 2003 Author Share Posted August 8, 2003 And while on the topic of how glossy is appropriate...Since I am nearing time to paint the steel frame, just how glossy would the black paint on the frame have been originally?Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56Roadmaster Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 Hi Rich, On the engine Super glossy would be too much, Paint should be above a semi-gloss, but say like a shine you would get from a Rustoleum high gloss, not like a mirror.The engines were painted as cast. For the frame high gloss would be appropriate/correct, and it should be smooth in the area that show i.e. where you can look under the fenders, rear housing etc. Mind you that, all thought these frame were painted over the bare metal they had a nice finish/ shine, it would not be inappropriate to use some filler to cover rust pitting, on parts that show, of course doing this on the frame parts where the body sits, or other hidden areas is a waste of time and money. As for the dulling of your gloss talk to supplier for some flattening agents.Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 This guy is right on target, remember that all mnfrs, up until the '30's used standard turpentine,linseed oil, pigment mix which had a fair gloss when new, the nitrocellulose laquer used on body panels was quite different and faded with age and UV exposure.I am also into hit and miss engines,hot air motors and farm tractors and there was/is a disturbing trend in engine "restoration" to fill the casting irregularities with fibreglass, sand everything down with 1,000 paper and shoot 2 part base/clear mixtures on them giving a completely unrealistic appearance, just look at any issue of Gas Engine magazine and you'll see what I mean.Fortunately there exist examples in original condition that graphically show how they were painted and detailed when new thank god. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadsterRich Posted August 9, 2003 Author Share Posted August 9, 2003 Thanks for the great replies. With regards to the engine block, this is what I expected, but wanted confirmation of. I have the good fortune on my frame so far that I have found no rust pitting, mind you I am just now getting to the front 1/3 of the frame, working my way from back to front cleaning and prepping it. My only issues so far are some unsightly welds I need to address.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
56Roadmaster Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Hey Carleton, Do you still have a copy of the Dykes manual? you said to email you which I did a couple times, i am still interested- email me. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Just found it! I have 2 Dyke's but will part with one.Gimme a call at 631-549-3839 {before 9pm}maybe you can swap me something interesting for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter J.Heizmann Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Hi, Rich...I know your question was hashed about over the years.At the top of the Main Page, click on SearchWhen the search screen prompts, fill in the blocks:1-All Forums2-Word to Search for: Correct Paint3-Entire Phrase4-Date Range: All Posts5-click on "Search"There was a post titled: 55-Correct Paint on Engine dated 8/24/01, and, others that you can check out.Regards, Peter J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadsterRich Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 Peter,Thanks for the hint. Believe it or not I actually do take the time to do a search before posting questions. The post you reference, and others I found dealt primarily with color. I did not find any pertaining to the level of gloss one would expect as original on a 1930 Vintage engine block. Perhaps I missed some, I just rechecked and did not find them. I always try a few search terms however with so many possibilities it is easy to miss what one is searching for.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadsterRich Posted August 10, 2003 Author Share Posted August 10, 2003 Oops... to stand semi-corrected, I did find one post that discussed the proper paint for 1930 frames, however, it was a reference to a vendor selling it rather than a discussion of what was or was not correct.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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