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Any suggestions would be appreciated.

My 89 started a week or so ago with a very rough idle. Not wanting to cause any major problems, I just turned it off and waited till I had a chance to get back to it and check things out. Now it will not start? it tries to crank, but doesn?t start. No codes, sounds like fuel pump is starting. New spark plugs & O2 sensor in May 2003, new fuel pump relay, new IAC. Fuel filter was my next thing, but looks like a pain because of it?s location and $75 at a shop sounded high!

Any suggestions?

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Tested fuel pump, using 12v to the pigtail. Sounds like it is working and even sounds like fuel is making it to the engine area.

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Huntsville ? May be in Madison Wed.

Meanwhile need to separate fuel system from ignition. I usually introduce about a 1/2 oz of gasoline directly into the maiford and try to start. If it fires then quits, the problem is no fuel.

If nothing happens, it is probably ignition and there is an eight page chart in the service manual on "cranks but does not run" ( sec 6E3-chart A-3 but with no codes it would probably be either the ESC or the crank sensor

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Sorry about my wording ... It cranks, but will not start.

Followed padgett's suggestion to determine if it may be fuel supply problem or electrical. Sprayed starter spray in air intake (per someone else's suggestion) and still did not run. Not even briefly.

Sounds like it may be electrical.

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Guest kennyw

throw a $99 ign. module at it or pull the crank pully and check for broken [crank sensor]. Both of these should be in search. That is what i did. Ended up being a broken crank sensor. ken

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Guest Greg Ross

Believe it's also possible on an older engine if there are seal leaks, valve pan covers, front crank shaft seal etc. it's quite possible it's an electrical connector to the cam or crank sensor. unplug, spray with electrical contact cleaner, exercise (plug and unplug several times) Same as the ignition module harness connector, unbolt, clean and do the same, can't hurt certainly!

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Won't be the cam sensor from the description (no codes), likely either the ignition module aka electronic spark control (ESC - located under the coilpack) or the crank sensor. If sensor gets loose & moves the windows on the balancer can snap the magnets off.

If cannot get under the car with a light the other way to check is to pull the crank balancer (10 minute job) & necessary to replace.

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If you download the 90FSM (see posting ) the chart beginning at 6E3-A-18 in 90Reatta-06G-Engine.pdf is the place to start. It will tell you exactly how to determine what to replace.

This is a good eample of why the FSM is essential to owning a Reatta, otherwise you are liable to just be throwing parts at it. This way you know when to jumper two wires and wiggle your ears.

Wonder how long it will be before there is an index (section 6E is in file 6G) ?

This is part of the Pandora's box nature of the Internet - once something is out, it is very difficult to put back in.

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It does sound like a crank sensor problem. If it was running rough, it may have been in the limp home mode, with reduced timing, but the manual warns that it will not restart. In other words it will continue to run if the sensor fails but if the reference signal is gone on start up, it has no reference to start the ignition process. Did the Check Engine light come on at any time?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Problem was the Ignition Control Module.

Part: Sorensen ICM for $87.99 at Advance Auto Parts ? Lifetime warranty

Labor: $45.00 ? local independent shop ? diagnostic & install ICM.

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