1933 Pierce Arrow 836 sedan

[Kawika]

Trying to find out how to verify what I actualy got .  

1) where is the vin at ?

2) how to dechiper the vin

 

Thanks 

[Grimy]

See this

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/serial-number-and-identification/

 

Model  836 (136” wb)       Ser. # 1070001  to  1071268               1268                       1071251                                               

Model  836 (139” wb)       Ser. # 1550001  to  1550259               259                         1550229          

 

Serial numbers consist of 7 numbers stamped on a rectangular aluminum tag usually affixed to the outside of the frame rail behind the right front wheel (occasionally the left front).  If it's missing, that's not too unusual.

Engine numbers on 8s are six numbers stamped into a boss on the left side of the engine block just below the cylinder head.

Body numbers are on an oblong tag usually affixed to the inside of the wooden sill under the front passenger floor.      

Provide any of the numbers on your car and we may be able to complete the set from our records!          

[Grimy]

See this:

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/serial-number-and-identification/

Model  836 (136” wb)       Ser. # 1070001  to  1071268               # produced: 1268                      highest SN known 1071251                                               

Model  836 (139” wb)       Ser. # 1550001  to  1550259               # produced: 259                        highest SN known 1550229                               

[alsancle]

An easier way is to post pictures of the car.

[Grimy]

Actually, AJ, the 3-digit prefix of the serial number is unique to the year, engine and wheelbase; the last four are sequential numbers.  Similar arrangements for engine and body numbers but takes more typing to explain. 

[alsancle]

12 hours ago, Grimy said:

Actually, AJ, the 3-digit prefix of the serial number is unique to the year, engine and wheelbase; the last four are sequential numbers.  Similar arrangements for engine and body numbers but takes more typing to explain. 

Thanks George.   You gave him a lot.  I still want to see pictures.

[Kawika]

18 hours ago, Grimy said:

See this

https://pierce-arrow.org/members/serial-number-and-identification/

 

Model  836 (136” wb)       Ser. # 1070001  to  1071268               1268                       1071251                                               

 

Model  836 (139” wb)       Ser. # 1550001  to  1550259               259                         1550229          

 

Serial numbers consist of 7 numbers stamped on a rectangular aluminum tag usually affixed to the outside of the frame rail behind the right front wheel (occasionally the left front).  If it's missing, that's not too unusual.

Engine numbers on 8s are six numbers stamped into a boss on the left side of the engine block just below the cylinder head.

Body numbers are on an oblong tag usually affixed to the inside of the wooden sill under the front passenger floor.      

Provide any of the numbers on your car and we may be able to complete the set from our records!          

I am trying to find the tag on the frame. It appears to be missing the one behind the left front tire  the one on the block is behind a few items that I need to move out of the way before I can get it there is a tag in the eng compartment that I will get a picture of it and post. Thanks for the information 

[Grimy]

Engine number is about halfway back on left, on a flat boss about 3/4" tall just below head gasket.  Try using a mirror to read it before you remove stuff.

 

Serial number is usually behind RIGHT front tire.  Look for two holes for rivets holding aluminum tag to frame if tag isn't there (it happens).

 

Body number is hard to find. 

 

In meantime, send photos

[Kawika]

5 hours ago, Kawika said:

I am trying to find the tag on the frame. It appears to be missing the one behind the left front tire  the one on the block is behind a few items that I need to move out of the way before I can get it there is a tag in the eng compartment that I will get a picture of it and post. Thanks for the information 

body tag in the eng compartnent reads 33 6N1 51  ,  the eng # is 235160  the tag on the frame is missing just a little piece behind a rivit ,  Thanks in advance. for some reason I can't get pictures to download .

[Kawika]

Here are a few of the pictures

[Grimy]

11 minutes ago, Kawika said:

body tag in the eng compartnent reads 33 6N1 51  ,  the eng # is 235160  the tag on the frame is missing just a little piece behind a rivit ,  Thanks in advance. for some reason I can't get pictures to download .

That car is for some reason not currently in the PAS online database, but is in a 2005 database I have.

Serial 1070143

engine 235160

body number is actually 236-N1-51  236 = engrg code for 8-cyl, 136" wb; N1= club sedan (a "2" would indicate "Salon" dress up features); 51 sequential number of 1933 club sedans.  (I'm happy to see that they moved that body tag to the cowl for 1933 unlike my 1930)

 

The 1933 club sedan (no quarter windows) is highly regarded as probably the best looking Pierce-Arrow sedan.

 

In 2005 the car belonged to a Mr. McDaniel in Washington State.

[Kawika]

few pictures of the car

[Grimy]

Afterthought:  The Southern California Region of CCCA was reproducing those chassis serial number plates (blanks), and now that you have the correct chassis number you could stamp it in.  I'd review the font and size on some original cars first.

[Kawika]

Thank you so very much !  I am currently getting the parts together to see if I can get it running again .

it states on the odometer 57262 mi

[Grimy]

I urge you to drop the oil pan, clean it out, and especially the screen for the oil pump pickup.  I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF in cylinders, let it sit a few days, screw spark plugs back in loosely.  Do NOT use starter to try to turn over initially--drop the flywheel pan and use a pry bar to work the engine back and forth an inch or two with plugs out.  I'd also check that the water pump is not stuck--when trying to rotate the engine, remove the fan belt which drives the generator and water pump.

[Grimy]

I suggest you read the story of the continuing recommissioning of a 1921 Haynes by @BobinVirginia for excellent information on dealing with a long-neglected engine.  Bob is a professional machinist and really knows his stuff.

 

How about some photos of both sides of the engine?  1933 was the first year for (1) downdraft carburetors and (2) hydraulic lifters for 8-cyl Pierces.

 

And it will be really worthwhile to join the Pierce-Arrow Society (PAS) www.pierce-arrow.org which has available to members (1) free download of 67 years of technical articles "Service Bulletins" and (2) a message board like this one but on a smaller exclusively-Pierce scale where you can ask questions and receive knowledgeable answers in near-real time, and (3) many tech experts who know your car well and have had their hands very dirty working on them.  Membership runs 12 months, so if you join in August, for example, you're covered through the following July.

 

[BobinVirginia]

@Grimy

Thanks for the comment! 
@Kawika

You've got a very cool project! You’ve already found the best source of information on Pierce you’ll ever find with George! (aka Grimy) 

I’d recommend the exact same approach as to what he laid out on reviving the engine. Don’t force it and lube the snot out of everything! The water pump was the culprit holding my engine. Luckily I didn’t get forceful and break the fiber gear that drives it. 
 

It’d be really cool to see it live again! 

[BobinVirginia]

If I can answer any general question about the engine block or component salvage let me know. 

[BlueDevil]

Here are what the data plates look like.

 

Let me know if I can help with anything.