blocked brake bleed nipple

[Guest]

I've just fitted the brake system on a '59 Dodge that I'm restoring.<BR>Everything went smoothly until I went to bleed the brakes.<BR>My pedal pusher said there was no travel in the brake pedal even though I had given the bleed nipple nut a good half turn. I continued to release the nut until the brake pedal started moving, but the brake fluid just came through the thread of the nut. I suspect a blocked nipple. How do you clear them? Is it OK to stuff a pin/nail down them?

[ply33]

Why don't you just go to a good brake supply store and get new ones?<P>The ones on my car have a hole 90° to the shaft just above the sealing taper. There is a hole the length of the bolt that goes to, but not past the crosswise hole. You could clean out that long hole without harming things, but if the gunk is in the crosswise hole, you will not be able to clean it with out removing it from the car.

[Rick Hoover]

Bux,<P>Tod is correct. It would be easier and cheaper for you to just go to your local NAPA or Car Quest auto parts store and replace them with new. If you feel the need to reuse, then soak them with some gum cutter and blow it out with a air blow gun.<P>Rick

[Guest]

Thanks,<BR>I live in England now, so I try to repair rather than replace. But I guess transatlantic postage on a bleed nipple shouldn't kill me. I'll give it a blast with the air first though.<BR>(sorry to general readers for posting on general section rather than technical)

[ronbarn]

bux, no apology required. We do try to keep the categories on the forum separate for obvious reasons, but we're certainly not going to fault you. The main thing is that you were able to get a good response. Since you are not near one of the standard parts outlets that we have here in the US, let us know if you need some help.

[Guest]

Bux,<P> The easiest thing to do(I do this all the time) is take the bleeder completely out, and with a small drill bit, usually 1/8" or smaller, twist it into the openings. The hole drilled in the base near the taper may be smaller than the center hole. Just get a smaller bit. Don't waste your time soaking the bleeder, you'll still have to clean the dirt and crude out of the holes. <BR> I advise not to blow them out with a gun. Number 1, if you don't have a good grasp on the bleeder, you could blow it clean across the floor under some obscure object you haven't moved for years and surely don't want to now. Or it will end up in the floor drain and you'll have to go fishing, or worse yet, you have no idea where it flew. Number 2, that's a good why to impregnate a big chunk of dirt in your eye. We all wear our safety glasses all the time, don't we?<BR> I just hold the bit in one hand and twist the bleeder on or vice versa. If it's a little stubborn, use a pair of vise grips and twist the bleeder with a socket and rachet.

[Guest]

That's the way I have always cleaned mine and it still seems to work today. Good luck

[Guest]

Thanks all,<BR>The drill bit method sounds like a safer bet than the air, I'll give it a try.<BR>Do you drain your brake fluid before taking the bleed nut off, or can you get it off and back on again while the fluid is still in the pipes (without making another puddle on the wife's driveway)?

[Rick Hoover]

bux,<BR>I want to apologize for what does sound like poor advise after re-reading my reply to you. It was not meant that anyone using that method should be holding it up to their face or to be using full line pressure when doing so. It was only a second alternative to what Tod had already suggested and to be attempted in a safe manner. Alan and Tod have given you sound advise and I agree with them 100%. Again, my method here in most cases, is that I replace them with new from my stock as to save time and money.<P>Rick

[ply33]

By the way, when you get the old bleeder screws cleaned up (or replaced with new), you should get the appropriate dust caps to keep them from getting clogged again.<P>On the really old bleed screws (where you need a threaded hose adaptor) use a short 1/4-20 bolt as your dust cap. On the newer bleed screws where you have a barbed protrusion to press the hose on there should be a press on rubber cap.

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Bux<P>To answer your other question, you can likely get by without leaking too much fluid. The bleeder is at the top of the wheel cylinder (where the air would be), so as long as you dont press the pedal while you have the bleeder removed, there should be little leakage. Maybe you should block up the pedal if it would tend to actuate by gravity, but if you intend to have the bleeder out only long enough to replace it with a new one, I wouldn't bother.

[Guest]

To prevent losing brake fluid while you have the bleeder screw out, use a small vise grips to pinch off the flexible brake hose. Be careful not to pinch it too hard as to damage the hose.<P>------------------<BR>tsauto@v35.com<BR>AACA member, Pottstown Region<BR>'60 TR-3

[Guest]

SUCCESS!!!<P>All tips used and the whole thing went without a hitch (although I had to use a chisel to locate the cross hole)<P>Rick - I even used the human form of air hose to clear the last pieces of debris!<P>Many thanks to all. Just transmission and electrics to go...

[Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)]

Glad everything worked out.

[ronbarn]

Another satisfied (and registered) DFer! Darned aren't we good. Thanx to all who helped bux.<P>bux - keep us posted on progress and/or questions you may have.