Rear glass install P2

[vette-kid]

I'm working on replacing weatherstripping.   I've never installed a window before (not a front or rear anyway, side glass is different), does anyone have some good tips or maybe pics or video of how the back window goes in?  Or out!?😅

[jpage]

Did you purchase a new gasket? If you got one from Steele, let me know how the fit was. The channel is relatively deep, at least on my Dodge, and the repro gaskets don't seem to be tall enough. I got a section of rubber from Restoration Specialties, which is a little taller but it doesn't seem to want to bend tightly enough around the curves. I'm not positive, but  these gaskets have an outer lip that needs to be to be pulled out around the body with the glass already in the gasket. They do that with a small strong cord. Probably takes 2 people, 1 to hold the window in place from the inside and the other to pull the cord and seat the lip. Once installed, the garnish moulding helps to hold everything tight. I think there may be some Youtube vids on this type of installation. The videos may be of later model cars but the theory is the same. My service manual does not cover replacing the rea glass! Good luck!

[vette-kid]

yeah, ive seen the videos.  Most seem to be later model cars and the glass goes in from the outside.  I think on ours they go in the other way, from the inside.  Ill have to look in the other garage later, I think I got the rear gasket from Bernbaum.  I have new rubber for the front and rear windows, cowl vent and door bottom.  still havnt figured that one out though, they sell the rubber, but not the strip that it mounts on.   I was hoping to just come up with something to make it work.  But I still need the rest of the door rubber anyway.   The cowl vent had a bit of rust so im cleaning that up and respraying it.  Then on to the rear window maybe by this weekend.  

[jpage]

Yeah, the bottom door rubber needs to be glued to a thin piece of aluminum or steel. The originals were moulded  around a steel reinforcement. Again, I'm not totally sure that it will work well for 2 reasons. First, it may hold the bottom of the door door panel too far from the door because of it's thickness and second  because the outer flap may not be long enough. The gap between the body and the inside of the door is fairly wide. I really haven't checked that fitment yet. RS used to furnish some of this door rubber to other companies and I will be using their seals. I'm still not sure exactly which way the upper seal faces. It has, what we called a "Washington Head " profile as it resembles the silhouette on the coin. My seals were so badly deteriorated that I have no real idea of how they looked installed. I'm also not sure how well the original seals worked as the gaps are quite large. I think the windlacing kept out most of the wind. Let me know how you make out.

[vette-kid]

OK, rear glass is out and MINOR repairs made to sheet metal.  Just a small amount of rust inside the frame, I was pleasantly surprised.  The garnish also turned out to be in great condition and cleaned up REALLY well.  Ill get some pics up soon.  

 

There is no lip in the window frame.  The garnish piece just presses it in place creating a seal with the weatherstripping.  The outer lip of the weatherstrip must be pulled up over the window frame to sit on the outside using the rope method.  The service manual mentions sealer under that, but I just do not see a way to do that without creating a huge mess.  Im going to hope that the newer material creates a good enough seal without it.  There did not appear to be any on the one we took out.  I also noticed that it appears to have been replaced at some point as there is no logo on the glass (i believe all factory glass would have had the CPDC logo, no?)

[vette-kid]

Well it's done... not fun, but it ended out ok.   I used weatherstripping from Bernbaum.  The lip could be a tad longer maybe, but that could just be us not getting the window adjusted as good.   It's a pain.   I would also wet the rope if I had to do it again.  And the seam could be smoother, but it isn't bad.   Getting sealant under the outer lip look near impossible without a huge mess.   Unless I can find a smaller applicator tip. 

[jpage]

Looks like it fit fairly well! Did the gasket bottom out in the inner recessed area or does it only go part way? That's what I was curious about because the inner channel is quite deep along the bottom on my car.

[vette-kid]

I should have measured that channnel.  When you first put it in, gravity does its thing and it sits on the bottom inner surface here.  I would assume the D2 to look pretty similar to this?  This causes the bottom lip to be significantly more difficult to pull the rope through than the top was.  Hindsight, besides soaking the rope; some sort of shims on the bottom to let the window sit more centered in the opening would probably make a difference.  There were not any shims in it when we took it out, so we didnt think to do that going in.  But again, I think it was replaced at some point.  In fact, im more convinced that this car was in an accident at some point.  The front bumper bracket has been welded and the frame horns seem to come through the fenders at different distances (I think the fender is mounted off more than the frame being bent). 

 

Back to the window, it does not have the origional logo in the corner so im leaning towards this being replacement glass, which could also lend to it being slightly off.  Who know!?  But it does fit and looks like a good seal.  There is no sealant between the gasket and the body at this point.  But as long as it sits tight with the molding (you will have to puch in some on it to get the screws back in) I dont think it can leak.

[jpage]

What's the other car in the garage?

[vette-kid]

47 Plymouth

[jpage]

Nice looking car and a great family car!