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57 Buick Century to bring back to life


Stephenca118

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Wow, thank you all.  A lot of great advice and experience.

The Trans:  Well it worked as rocktrader said.  In D, nice and smooth, no slipping and I see how it is not the hydramatic that was in my 58 98.  L is low and works well.  I did not floor it, still babying the brakes.

Ok, the brakes.  Yea I read about that center pin centering issue and I think I am going to have to revisit that.  When I got the car I could not get the LR brake drum off until I loosened the centering pin and whacked it with a mallet.   And it seemed the more I drove it the better the brakes were.  So I will do that before I do anything with the M/C.

The choke stove, the tube goes into the back of the P/S exhaust manifold, and it broke off.  Well rusted off actually.  I have the tube, the spring plate on the carb, the threads are all messed up, I will try to clean them up and will make  a stove and attach it to the top rear of the manifold with a big hose clamp.  And see if that works.

The car runs really well, starts right up, well with a bit of bendix issue, I will deal with that when it is in the air  and I am visiting the brake pin issue.  The front end is sloppy but I am not going to deal with that, I will set the toe as best I can.

I will let you know how it works out.

Thank you all again for taking the time to reply to my project,

Steve

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I’ve seen some pretty horrible shoe-to-drum arcs on new shoes lately.  Especially if the drum has been turned a lot.  This is nearly equally important as anchor pin adjustment.  Pull a drum and a shoe.  Put the shoe in the drum.  If it rocks like a rocking chair, it needs to be arc-ed to the drum.  If you can find one locally, a clutch rebuilder sometimes has the tool to do this.  I have a guy locally that does it.

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Thank you for the input.  I will try the pin adjustment check first.  The drums are in good shape, only had to replace one that was 120 over.

Now I am working on getting the horn to work.  Here is a few pics of the T/S repair.  I used a #4-40 screw.   It may be hokey but it works.  Just being gentle activating the T/S switch.

I will let you know how the brakes turn out.  The Olds is on the rack now with the gas tank removed so I will get the Buick back on it as soon as I can.

Thank you all again for your valuable feedback,

Steve

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