32 buick gauge cluster removal

[carl32-56s]

My name is Carl Haselow, I have a 1932 56S that I have owned for 10 years.  I recently had my fuel tank restored using the Renu process at a radiator shop near Houston.   My fuel gauge never worked so I decided to have it reworked.  I called Bobs speedometer in Mi and he asked that I send the fuel gauge with the sending unit.  I can not reach all of the screws to remove just the fuel / ammeter cluster.  I also have a replacement temperature gauge that needs to be installed as it does not work as well.   Has any one removed the dash,  any feed back as to how to go about this would be appreciated.   Car was rewired before I purchased the car, so I do not need to replace any wiring at this time.  

[Jim Nelson]

When I removed my dash on my 35-58 Vicky,  I spent  time on my back ( ugh ) disconnectioning  the oil line and temp gage.    Both are a pain.    Be prepared to drop the screws so have a sheet under you to catch them.    I did the same on my gas tank.   That disconnect from the tank was an 'interesting hook up.'.     I ended up replacing the level unit (that is like newer sending units.).  The one I got has both the sending unit and fuel outlet combined.   I ran new metal lines from the tank to a point where I could hook them together.    I also installed a  6 volt electric boost pump just in front of the tank to make very good starting.   Also,  provides an emergency fuel pump when you are out driving and the original pump fails - yes,  been there, done that.      Cheeper than a tow truck back home - - -.   All my pre-war Buicks have had the boost pumps and I am glad I had them.    A switch under the dash with a small light to show you its on is all you need.   It also prevents 'vapor lock'  in our southern climates (Tampa Fl.).   Double check the wiring for the fuel gage.   Grounding is very important.   Clean and bright contact for a good gage operation.    I have pix if you are interested.   

[carl32-56s]

I had at first purchased an aftermarket sending unit for a 38buick that could be modified.  I was able to slot the holes but the outlet tube kept the tank from being installed because on the 32 there is a small window in the cross member that the tube must go through and should have a fitting soldered for the tubing to the pump.  So i decided to have the original rebuilt.   I have an electric fuel pump as well, has got me back to the house several times.  Most of my problems were caused by a tank lining that had failed and kept plugging the electric pump inlet screen.  My car at some time was converted to a downdraft carb.  I have collected all of the parts to put an original carburetor back on the car.  Purchased most of the parts from Pete Phillips.   

[Steves Buick]

I recently had my dash apart. I found it much easier to pull the gauges from the top side vs breaking my back lying on the floor. Just remove the upper wood trim piece, then the 4 bolts holding the entire dash to the body. Pull out the dash away from the body, will have to disconnect the cowl vent handle. Then you can easily see the 4 screws holding each gauge cluster. Take pix and mark your connections. Takes a couple of hours. I revineered my dash panels. Pm me if you get stuck!!

[Steves Buick]

Almost forgot, the tank sending unit is 30 ohm and so is your gauge, if your gauge reads empty or almost empty your sending unit line is grounding out somewhere. Best to match the two together. Dropping the tank is easy, a couple of straps then you can access your sending unit. Just support the tank with a board and floor jack, oh and make sure it's empty!! Or cut a hole in your truck or rumble seat floor and go in from above.

Cheers.

[carl32-56s]

Thanks for all the info and pictures, that was what I was looking for.   I will work on it tomorrow, as I am on vacation this week.   Have tank all restored just waiting on the sending unit repair.