our51super Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Hi All,I was wondering what you guys use for a garage floor paint. Every Spring I paint our garage floor with Dry-Lok garage floor paint (a nice shade of gray) and it does pretty well for us. I have used Behr (sp?) garage floor paint in my parent's garage and that came right up. I then painted over it with Dry-Lok and it still looks good to this day - they don't work on cars so it doesn't see the abuse our garage sees. Anyway, I have always wanted that shinny look for the garage floor but I don't know what makes it shinny. Is it something like a urathane clear? Teresa and I have thought about applying the 'industrial strength' vinyl tiles (make a nice black and white check floor) but we're not sure how they will hold up. I have seen these tiles in garages before (mainly on eBay car auctions) and they seem to look pretty well. My main concern is if oil get's between the tiles - will that be harmful? Can oil get between them with all the tile adhesive? I would like to hear your experiences/advice and as always, thank you in advance.Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Baysinger Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Excellent topic, and very timely since I'm wanting to do the same thing soon. Maybe someone can also talk about preparing the floor for paint or tile as well, since this has to be just as important as what we put down. My floor was sealed when it was put down, and I'm wondering if it needs cleaning and resealed before I paint or tile.Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
our51super Posted February 5, 2003 Author Share Posted February 5, 2003 Ours wasn't sealed - just bare concrete and the Dry-Lok paint adhered nicely. The most common advice is to acid wash the concrete but I'm not sure what its purpose is nor do I know if anything is required for tile prep. Griot's Garage sells a 2 part garage floor paint and the end result is a shinny, durable finish (at least in the pictures they show). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Green Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 I did my floor a little over a year ago and use it hard but try not to drag heavy things across it. It was 4 year old bare concrete with 4 coats of sealer on it and also some oil stains. I used a epoxy product called u-coat-it as seen in the buildings at the Carlisle fairgrounds. The first step is the acid wash then the color coat and then the clear top layer. If you want colored flakes in it you throw them up in the air while the color coat is drying and before the clear coat is put down. You must wait a day in between the wash, color coat and the clear coat and it should not be below 60 degrees.Warning this stuff when putting the clear coat down really stinks. In fact I had the fire company show up at the house as the smell carried 3 blocks away. There website is www.ucoatit.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
our51super Posted February 5, 2003 Author Share Posted February 5, 2003 Ron,Did you have to strip the old paint off first?Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Baysinger Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 What kind of acid wash are we talking about...muratic acid? Do you just mop it or would it be best to rent an industrial floor scrubber? I know there was a post a short time ago about removing oil stains, but I don't remember which method works the best. I'll have to look that one up again.Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palbuick Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 Hi This was a very long topic discussed some time ago.When I had my garage built I first used an Garage floor enamel. Little did I know that there was a sealer applied to finished floor. After painting the floor with two colors and a nice design, it never dried, some areas were hard and some were still soft after 3 weeks. I had to remove all the new paint with a scraper, a 30' X 30' area. Cleaned floor with Muradic acid and rented floor sander to remove all sealer. Applying a 2part epoxy paint with a roller was fairly easy. Paint has been down for 4 years now, after spilling paint remover, thinner, and paint, nothing has ruined the original paint or has it lifted.It was expensive at time about $ 35.00 gallon for the two part mixture. No matter what you use, make sure the floor is clean and follow directions of paint Mfg.Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Green Posted February 5, 2003 Share Posted February 5, 2003 My floor (see post above) had a concrete sealer (clear) not paint. The acid wash cleaned most of it off however not all of it. The acid wash also cleaned most of the oil off and etched the remaining concrete. I have had no lifting problems on any of the surfaces. I would not paint over existing paint. My garage is 50 foot long and 20 foot wide. It was done over a weekend with the u-coat-it product which comes with everything needed including the acid wash. I think the material costs were around $475 and took around 28 hours. Most stains including oil wipe right up and the ground in hard ones I use laquer thinner. As with all painting, preparing surface is the hardest and most important part. I am leaving for the AACA annual meeting check back on Monday to see how this topic has progressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 As many, I've been here, done these. Here's my thoughts:1. Acid wash is done with muratic acid (15% hydrocloric acid) to clean the concrete, remove sealer and etch the concrete surface to provide 'tooth' for paint/epoxy or adhesive. Best used from a plastic pail mixed to product specifications and applied with an acid scrub brush. The muratic acid will destroy a mop.2. CoveringsPaint (deck or concrete...not stain). Advantages -- Least expensive (figure $.30/sf for all materials), fastest, forgiving of uneven surfaces. Disadvantages -- lifts sooner or later, usually sooner. Chips, fails if percolating moisture is present, stains easily and doesn't wear gracefully, stains easily with petrolium/chemical spills.Tile (1/8") commercial grade. Advantages-- inexpensive (figure $.70/sf for all materials), fast to install, easy to do patterns, easy to repair, provides some cushioning, shines up nice if your're into that sort of thing. Disadvantages-- tends to lift under vehicle tires (have to have parking pads), not impact resistant (sharp/heavy things will crack the tile), not very resistant to petrolium product spills and gas/brake fluid will melt some of them, doesn't provide a sealed surface.Epoxy. Expensive to outta sight for professional application. Material is expensive (figure $2-4/sf for labor and $1-2/sf for material) and can be difficult to work with. Advantages -- wears well, color patterns and textures, doesn't lift readily, impervious to most vehicle fluids, impact resistant, looks great if done correctly. Disadvantages -- Cost, requires good surface and ususally mechanical preparation (sanding or bead blasting) of the surface for good bonding, will fail on concrete with moisture problems.cheers,John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_scotties1 Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 I agree an excellent topic and one I am going to follow closely.We to are planning on putting down a black and white floor in our garage. We plan on painting the floor white and adding heavy duty vinyl black contact paper, yes you are reading that right. Saw this done on a DIY show. What have you got to loose ? Anyway the contact paper is replaceable for any of the areas that should scuff.Check out ....www.doitbest.com for their mail order, also check out Ace True Value Stores for contact paper. Plan on using 9" squares to get the most from a roll.We will follow the posts for painting procedures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Try www.racedeck.com.Bob Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 I'd have included that, but when I checked the prices for the product, it was about $4/sf... money better spent on a Buick... and, it's a major pain to clean under them.JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 These are solid tiles, not the perforated ones you sometimes see in drag race pits. There is no need to clean under them. If cost were the only factor, you would retain the bare concrete floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Well, if cost were the absolute consideration, we'd just keep dirt floors... nah, we'd not even build garages.I made an incorrect conculusion that these were the preforated, interlocking tiles that I've seen at several home show events. Therefore, my conclusions about them are invalid. JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
our51super Posted February 8, 2003 Author Share Posted February 8, 2003 Here's an e-mail that I received from one of their sales reps:-----------------------------------------------------------------------------Crin,Thank you for your interest in our RaceDeck floor! I am sending you a sample and some additional information today, and I'll plan on following up with you in a week. Pricing ranges from $3.75 to 2.40 per square foot depending upon style and quantity. Feel free to contact me at 1-800-457-0174. I look forward to working with you!Ben RouecheMidwest Sales RepresentativeSnap Lock IndustriesThe information herein transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or Taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this in error, please delete the material from your computer and contact the sender.www.snaplock.com www.racedeck.com www.duragrid.com 800-457-0174; 801-293-9313, ext.16Corporate Headquarters: 6419 So Cottonwood Street-SLC, UT 84107 U.S.A.----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Some of the designs look pretty cool. Personally, I like the black and white check with the red border. We might just do that ... maybe, although I think our garage is about 20 x 30 feet so what's 600 times $2.40 (how about times $3.75)?Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Allen Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 Does anyone have experience with Durall Industrial floor coating? Website is: www.concrete-floor-coatings.com. It is a solvent-based epoxy coating that appears to be similar to Muscle Gloss but is significantly less expensive. I'm building a new shop and am trying to select the best floor coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
our51super Posted February 11, 2003 Author Share Posted February 11, 2003 I just received a sample tile from racedeck and I have to tell you that I was not impressed. It's just a piece of plastic, about 1/4 inch thick with loops on two sides. I can't see how it would stay in place to start with - I guess I expected some sort of rubber back/non-slip. I don't think this product is worth the $ they are asking for it. I would prefer a the u-coat-it finish although it's too late for our garage. I don't think the time and effort are worth it at this point. I'll keep using Dry-Lok garage floor paint and give it a fresh coat every Spring. The next house/garage that we intend to build will most likely have the u-coat-it finish.Thank you for all your input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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