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Rear Calipers


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I discovered, to my horror, that when the rear pads are changed one must be very careful to not allow the piston to turn on the helix for the parking brake. I found that since I'd "taken the easy out" the last time I'd changed the rear pads, and just turned the piston to retract it, the hydraulic portion of the piston had hit full extend and was out as far as it would go. No wonder I was having some wierd pulling when I applied the brakes. There is no "CAUTION" statement in the shop manual so I didn't think too much about it until I discovered the hydraulic pistons bottomed. If there is something on this in the FAQ section I appologize because I never checked it before doing the pads. If there isn't there should be.

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You're right, the manual gives instructions on jacking the piston out of the caliper with the parking screw for overhaul but essentially nothing on how to reassemble. It says only to turn the screw as necessary to allow the piston to fully retract into the bore. No other cautions or if it is possible to turn it too far in.

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I removed the parling brake lever and screwed the piston back while pushing until it reached bottom. have to be careful to keep back pressure until full back until some form or retainer is on the screw or it will try to disappear into the body.

Once the new pads are in and the caliper remounted I screwed the piston out until it just dragged, then back in until the rotor just moved freely, then put the brake lever on in the nearest position that maintained free rotation.

This worked just fine and ecept for a just perceptible vibration on very light breaking has worked properly. I believe it is very important to installe the return spring on the caliper properly, it is easy to leave it off the step on the lever which leaves the spring loose and may rattle.

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