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HEI conversion on a 62 401


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Hello and thanks for your help in advance.

I have a 401 in my 62 wildcat it has a 4 bbl carter carb. I want to canvert it over to HEI but I am not sure about which HEI dist. I can use. Someone told me that the buick dist. was shorter than the chevy one. Plus help and any tips or advice on doing the conversion would be greatly appreciated. I have never done this type of conversion before and I am somewhat hesitent. Any help would be very HELPFULL. Thanks for your time. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" />

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If you feel you need an electronic ignition, why not install the pertronix unit in your distributor? They work fine ,and do not need any extra space. You will also have to run another wire ,as they use straight 12 volts. I run points in all my cars,and they have never let me down.

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I've thought about using the petronix II but have recieved a good bit of bad responses on them. I am still thinking about using petronix but don't really know which is best I know as far as price the petronix is cheaper than a msd hei. but I still want to get the best dist. possible for the old car. She runs good now, but I worry about haveing someone adjust the points in the future.

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I have a 72 GS that I run at the drags, and I still use a point ignition. Points will work just fine unless you need more than 6000 RPM. I use the points to trigger a MSD 6AL box ,and am very happy with the system.I have the points still in my 1940 also, and as long as you keep the distributor cam lobes lubricated, points last a long time. I have only replaced the points in the 40 twice in 90,000 miles.

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Joe, I know you are one sharp Buick guy, but KeRipes, 45,000 miles for a set of points??? You must of filed them, or something, in that time period? I take a low maintenance approach, but when it gets to starting a bit hard I change the points (Blue Streak) and that seems to be what it needed. That takes place around every year and a half (3000 miles a year)! I've gone through points enough that I always keep a spare set/condensor/screwdriver in the glove box. I'll have to try putting cam lube on there more often...thanks for the tip! Steve

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The main cause of point failure is the rub block wearing, and the condenser not matching the system. A condenser that is not right will cause a pitting in the points. When I get an old points car, I replace the points and look at them for pitting. If they have a pit, I replace the condenser. I then monitor the system ,and if the points start to pit, I change the condenser again. Once I find good condenser, The points will run until the rub block wears out. Condensers have a plus or minus microfarad reading for a tolerance, and I don't know much about that, only that when you get a good condenser, points wil run a LOOOOONNNNGG time.

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I know that a condensor with too great of capacity will cause point material to move(pit) from the movable to the stationary side of the point set, and vice-versa. But how many condensors and pitted points do you go through before you find the "right" set? Plus, as the block wears down dwell must be reset. No wonder so many people are thinking about Pertronics and HEI. To each his own, I guess. I like the points setup, enjoy tuneups,etc. Matter of fact, I might just go out and get a handful of condensors to try Joes strategy out. Not so much to save the cash, but similar to how many golf rounds I can play with a single ball. A little game/conquest in itself! Steve

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  • 11 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Guest AnthonyHansen

Where can I see photos? How much intake manifold grinding is needed?

Thanks, Tony Hansen

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