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Electric Supercharger Update


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Just wandering over from the LS1 Camaro world, as I am buying a Reatta for my daughter.

Ummm....

It ain't gonna work.

Did the inventor ever get a number on the maximum air flow the motor requires at full throttle at the horsepower peak? If the pump isn't capable of flowing more air than that, then forget it - it'll become a drag on the motor and hurt performance.

Using G-tech to calculate the gain from this mod is worthless. You need a chassis dyno.

You'd be better off indexing your spark plugs... more power than this mod is going to give you, and it's free too!

I like the guy's initiative though!

PacerX and the Black 2001 SS of DEATH, signing off!

"Here Cobra, Cobra, Cobra.... I have a little surprise for you!!!!"

2001 Camaro SS M6 - Katech Stage 2 heads & cam, DTS 3.73 12-bolt, Jet-Hot coated Hookers, Spec 3 Ceramic clutch, DTS Chrome-moly driveshaft, Subframe Connectors, BMR lower control arms, BMR relocation brackets, BMR Panhard rod, BMR torque arm, BMR strut tower brace, !Ported throttle body, !Ported MAF, !PCV, NGK 55's, MSD wires, B&M Ripper, Whisper Lid, FTRA, dyno tuned at APE...

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About 214 cfm required @ 5000 rpm @ 65% engine efficiency @ 70degF.. The 65% is the calculated efficiency of a 231c.i. engine with 165hp. If 5% gain in efficiency the requirement goes to 234 cfm. I agree the effect may be noticeable in the mid range where the slight push would mimic the larger throttle body I installed. More air through a given throttle opening. If the throttle could be somehow stabilized at a particular opening (block the throttle), and disconnect the IAC, you could read the air flow through the MAF and turn the blower on and off to see if there is indeed a change.

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I have thought about making a different rear manifold. The one in the pic is for my turbo project but since I figured out how to separate the rear manifold from the crossover, it may be possible to reconnect #6 in the original location and connect #2 and #4 straight into the outlet. I still need to clean things up a bit and rotate one of the flanges, but it does run with all this installed. The whole turbo assembly can be removed as a unit and the stock crossover bolts right back in so it will also work without the turbo. The rear pipe runs around the front (right) side of the engine and connects to the front manifold. Someday I may make Slims.

Robert, how do you blow up the photo?

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O R

You click on the hotlink on your name 2seater.

This will take you to the "Profile for 2seater"

With mouse on photo "Right click" and then click "add to favorites"

Save as favorite. Then open favorite and you have LARGE photo.

Did you know from the reflection that you were only partially dresses when you took the photo (From reflection), I could be wrong? grin.gif well, looking again?

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Thanks Robert, it works great. I'm not quite sure what reflection you see but I don't remember any risque' behavior with the camera, at least not in the garage. wink.gif

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Bro,

You could have the thing thrown on a chassis dyno for like $75. That'll settle it once and for all.

G-Tech is notoriously unreliable for 1/4 mile and horsepower numbers.

If there is a midrange torque benefit, you'll see it really quickly.

Regards,

PacerX

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Just thinking outside the box and it has occured to me that the best exhaust upgrade just might be Klasicfan's bilge blower. Then you can have a car that sucks and blows or if you prefer blows and sucks at the same time. I think that "K" would recommend the 4" unit.

Give it a try confused.gif

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Yep, 4" blows at 240 cfm, should help?? Missed UPS today, so will get the G-tech tomarrow. Working on a more powerful blower, may just produce enuf boost to blow that flag right out of the exhaust coupling. grin.gif If it seems effective, I'll dyno it. wink.gif

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Someone asked how one of the bilge blowers looks installed so I changed my photo to show mine installed with my homemade CAI. You will note it is not connected electrically, but does illustrate how easy it is to install. It would even work with the stock air box. Now as to whether it works, I don't know, but I have had it like this since the summer of '01 and it does not seem to degrade the engine performance just pulling air through it. It is the 4" model.

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Hal, That is it! Yeah, that's one clean engine! I've hooked mine up to a momentary switch that triggers at about 3/4 throttle, and has enough play to depress to full. It is mounted on the upper plastic cover under the dash by the gas pedal. If you remove the plastic cover you can see how it would attach.

I've noticed no decrease in power with it off either. Hope the G-tech will give an idea as to how much it helps.

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Agree, calibrating (leveling) the G-Tech can be a ral pain, I wound up attaching mine to the rear view mirror and pointing it straight back when making tests.

However it does seem very repeatable so while the absolute numbers might be a little off, the relative numbers should be indicative. The key here is to make several runs alternating blower on and blower off.

Several runs on my stock 88 clustered at 8.4 seconds 0-60. YMMV

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I haven't run the new engine against the G-Tech but I found some of my old data for the previous one. This had the homemade CAI, 160 deg. T'Stat, no cat, Fastchips PROM, all stock otherwise. Altitude 890 ft, ambiant air 64 deg.F., barometer 29.92. Average 0-60 for ten runs = 8.14 sec. 1/4 mile = 16.3, trap speed 88 mph. The new engine only has about 3500 miles on it,(clean engine bay), and I have not tried it yet. Wheelspin is a bit of a problem now, especially since it's getting cold here.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

It would never be a workable horsepower solution. You would have to get that blower spinning FAST to make any difference, and because it's an electric motor that's not built for high speeds, centripetal force would blow the motor apart if you tried to run it faster than it's supposed to. It's like running a starter for about 30 seconds when you can't get a car to start; eventually after running continually for an extended period of time, the insides of the starter spin apart. And another thing, the amount of power that the electricity that the car provides would not be enough to make a noticeable difference. YOU NEVER GET AS MUCH OR MORE POWER OUT OF A MACHINE AS YOU PUT INTO THE MACHINE. A machine CONVERTS matter to energy. According to the laws of physics, much of that energy is given off as heat, not kinetic enrgy. A mechanical supercharger would be the only solution. And if I had $2000-$4000 to do it, trust me, I would. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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Still here, and still reading the posts, Reatta has been too dependable, so I haven't needed to ask any questions and couldn't think of any good comments <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

BTW: The turbo project is still in the works, have two former aerospace engineers working on the prototype since last month. I still think it will work, and so do they. Granted only around 2-3 lbs. of boost. I have put a pre prototype functional unit on the Reatta that actually does close to 1 lb. of boost, haven't had the time to get any #s on it yet. They are going to dyno the prototype as soon as they get it dialed in. I'll post the results as soon as I have them. They are thinking outside the box on this project and really have come up with something that works. Will keep you posted.

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