Bill Jewell Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 Hello, What is involved in installing a rebuilt clutch and throw-out bearing in a 1930 Franklin 145? Thanks! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 (edited) Bill , Pull the transmission , pressure plate and clutch out. The throw-out bearing has two flats on it and it can be unthreaded from the pressure plate center. You will need to hold the other end with a large wrench. Reverse the procedure to install the new bearing. make sure all the spring fingers are laying flat after you have reinstalled the bearing. Not a big deal. You will need a plot shaft tool or I use a main shaft out of a transmission to center the clutch on the flywheel with the pilot bearing. You can borrow my main shaft for postage if you need it. Make sure you inspect that bearing to me smooth or replace it. They are cheap and available through NAPA . When you replace the bell housing , make sure the two dowel pins are in place for proper alignment . Make sure the adjustment ring is roughly in the right adjustment before tightening the pressure plate to the flywheel or its a bugger to adjust. Make sure when you reinstall the drive shaft the universal joints are in time. The yokes usually have a mark on them to get it correct, but if not make sure the joints all line up on each end so they don't bind. I just did the same job on a 32. Good luck ., Mike Edited October 23, 2018 by mikewest Added more info. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFitz Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 (edited) Bill, Mark the drive shaft u-joints so they mate back up exactly the same. The u-joints and flanges are often balanced as a unit with the driveshaft. Swap them 180 and they won't bind but they may no longer balance and you'll get a driveshaft vibration starting at about 45 mph. And make sure the pressure plate cover is marked to mate back up exactly in the same position with the flywheel housing. They are balanced as a unit. Put back on in the wrong position and the flywheel and pressure plated combo will be out of balance. I covered the removal and install, with pix, in the March 2006 in the Franklin Club's website Q&A. It has an updated added to it on June 06. Warning, there is a very large coil spring under tension inside the pressure plate. Read my instructions before attempting to remove the throwout bearing. There is simple tool to safely retain and control that big spring. That and a simple tool to help are shown in my pictures. The correct size bearing that is currently available from NAPA won't fit without an adapter nut. Club members Reeves Enterprises in Cazenovia makes them, and they can also sell you the correct throwout bearing that will fit and clear the yoke cross shaft. Also a good time to change the transmission's input shaft pilot bearing that is recessed into the back end of the crankshaft. It's a #203. It's available from most Autoparts stores and it's not expensive. While the pressure plate is apart use a wire brush to clean out the clutch disc dust out of the acme threads of the adjusting ring. Then it's very easy to adjust. Make sure it's well backed off before bolting the pressure plate in or you might snap off one or more of the 12 bolt ears around the edge of the pressure plate because a relined clutch disc is going to be thicker, thus needs more pressure plate clearance. To adjust the clutch turn the adjusting ring clockwise to take up slack using a long screw driver as a lever through the pressure plate cover holes, while you, or someone pushes down on the clutch pedal. BTW, If you don't have anyone locally, I rivet new friction facings on all Series 135 and later 12 inch clutch discs. See my ad in the Franklin Club website's Parts For Sale, Services and Venders section. Paul Edited October 23, 2018 by PFitz (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikewest Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 Bill, Paul made a good point about the spring. You will need to keep it captured with some threaded rod, nuts and washers although Ive taken them apart and put back together without anything. They don't fly apart , just jump up a bit. As for the u-joints, don't rely on the way it comes apart solely as many drive shafts have been reinstalled incorrectly. (The last guy didn't know what he was doing) Read and understand phasing of universal joints . Its all over the net and easy to understand. Like I said most of the splines are marked with a line or a arrow where it should engage the matching spline sleeve on the joint at the transmission end. Good luck and if you need my spline to line up the clutch Ill send it to you. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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