41Roadmaster Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Anyone have experience with replacing an original design clutch disc with a modern design reproduction? Just wondering if the repro I just bought is going to be OK, or should I stick with my original and have it refaced? Attached are photos of my original, showing large dampening springs and a riveted collar. The '41 shop manual calls this collar a "sling" and and it faces the transmission. I supposed it's to help keep things clean, but I'm not sure if it is essential. The modern reproduction is from B**'s has the same 11" diameter, the same hole size (10 spline, 1 1/8") but has smaller springs and no sling. Hum??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 B*b's sells hundreds of these things and if they didn't work they wouldn't sell them. I replaced my clutch on my 1940 Buick special and bought the new style clutch plate from B*b but had to buy the new style pressure plate for it, also from B*b. It works perfectly. It wasn't the 11 inch it was for the special. It made a scratching sound at first due to the rusty flywheel but that's gone now. My car runs like a new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superbuick Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 I had the same concern last year when I replaced my 1941 Clutch . After not finding the original type I installed the newer type and it is very smooth. The original style of pressure plate did not work very well over the years. So I think it is an upgrade with the newer style. The Buick's really amplify a clutch chatter with the torque tube rear end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41Roadmaster Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Thanks so much for the replies, it gives me relief to hear others have had good results with the new stuff. I'll power onward! Anderson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41Roadmaster Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 OK, I have a follow-up question...which direction is the darn disc installed??? There are no markings, but one side the the hub is bigger (extends further away from the face of the disc.) I thought this big side faced the transmission, to the rear, but the transmission is not fully sliding back into place, so now I'm not sure. Or maybe it's something else entirely? The transmission is 1/2" or so shy of touching the housing. We've tried giving it a wiggle, but it won't go any farther. We've tried pulling it back a little to see if there is an obstruction, but all looks clear. The transmission shaft splines appear to have engaged with the teeth of the disc hub, so we don't think that is it. If the teeth are engaged, the pilot bearing would also be aligned to engage, right? Re-tracing our steps: we replaced the pilot bearing, installed the disc (using an alignment tool before tightening the pressure plate bolts), installed a new throw out bearing (the cause of all this fun!), support collar (didn't forget that pesky snap ring that fell out during removal) and re-engaged the fork (clips and socket greased.) Then we greased the transmission shaft and tip. Went to slide the transmission back in place...disappointment! I'd appreciate of any words of wisdom, thanks : ) Anderson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 Here is my 1937 Special Clutch Disc: Here is the "flywheel side" of my clutch disc. It should sit nice and level against the flywheel. The hub spring washers go toward the flywheel. Hope it helps! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 (edited) Your prolley already using proper size bolts with heads cut off for guide pilots. The weight of that big trans can force the clutch disc down while you are maneuvering it attempting to align. A floor jack or trans jack helps as the trans can bind on the pilot guides if the trans weight is hanging just on those. Maybe double check that the pilot bearing/bushing went in as far as needed during replacement. If you put grease on the pilot shaft you may be creating a hydraulic lock if clearance is tight enuff. One of the removal tricks is to pack the cavity with grease and pound the right diameter round shaft to create sufficient "hydraulic" pressure to force pilot bearing out. You might try cleaning grease off and making sure trans has adequate support to go in absolutely straight with out having to resort to "armstrong" tactics. You could also use you alignment tool as a depth guage by marking flush with face of bellhousing after it bottoms. Then you can hold it next to input shaft of transmission. That might reveal the pilot bearing not being pressed in far enuff or damage in its bore. Edited March 18, 2018 by Guest (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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