1939 Buick 40 Special

[Guest roger kirschenman]

Information on how to remove drive line torque ball assembly or replacing torque ball

[kgreen]

Here's some help for starters

 

[39BuickEight]

Get the car up on jack stands or a lift.  Disconnect the rear shock links, torque tube bolts, torque ball bolts, and brake lines (it won’t go anywhere yet).  To pull it apart so you can work on it, use a ratchet strap and connect the rear axle to the frame (assuming you have the full frame version) or bumper brackets.  Tighten the strap and it will pull the rear axle assembly back enough to work on the torque ball.  You don’t need to do anything with the springs as they have enough movement and will simply move as needed.

 

There are certainly more eloquent explanations of this process, and the previous post will direct you to some great info, but that’s the bulk of it.  In order to do anything you have to get separation in the joint either by removing the rear axle (or simply pulling it back as explained) or taking the engine out (clearly much more work).

Edited November 23, 2017 by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

[Dynaflash8]

I have all of the parts (including the jackshaft NOS) except the rubber covered torque ball which Bob has.  I do have several that I consider useable that I'd almost give you, but if you tear this down I recommend a new one.  I only have one rubber-covered torque ball (NOS) left and it is not for sale at any price.  I have several good used inner metal torque balls and a number of used outer yokes that hardly anybody should need.  I do not have any rear torque tube front bearings (Hyatt) or the front and rear seals that go around it that I will sell I am pretty sure.  I have several used torque ball mounts that are useable.  I have some NOS, but I don't think I want to sell any.  I still have two cars for some period longer.  I am 79 years old.  I don't think I have any of the paper shims, but I think Bob's or CARS's has those.  The shims are used as an adjustment.  According to the 1939 Shop Manual addendum book to the 1938 Manual, once assembled the front shaft should barely fall toward the ground, if I remember correctly.  They are right, if you can get a new front shaft you need to do it.  I've had one on eBay for a month with nobody even watching it.  I learned my lesson in 1967 as a youngster have built up way more of these, NOS, than I can ever use, but minimum price is $65 plus shipping on those.  I learned then that the Hyatt bearing and two different seals around it at the front of the rear driveshaft were then, and are now, almost impossible to find.  You cannot successfully do this job without a '39 Shop Manual, or barring dumb luck, you'll end up with a heck of a driveline vibration.  Oh, I forgot the u-joint connected to the end of the front driveshaft.  They interchange with Pontiac and Oldsmobile and seem to be pretty much readily available.  I think I have a couple of those.  I've been collecting '39 Special driveline parts since 1967 when I went through this deal the first time.