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Posted

Hi, 

The carb shown in your pictures, is Ford Model A. I ran my model 52 for years using one of these carbs, but instead of connecting a cable for the choke, I used the Ford choke rod thru to the dash. This rod then allows you to adjust the mixture as you are driving from inside the car. Any Model A Ford guys can supply you with a rebuild kit or a complete new carb and tell you how to adjust it .

 The original Carb for the model 50 was a Carter, very similar to Chev of the era, except that the carb mounting bolts on a Chev are offset. The Carter carb had a venturi made of diecast metal, and these I think disintegrated with age, so I guess a lot of owners found it easier to just buy a Ford Carb and bolt it on. Good luck finding a carb in good condition.

Viv.

Posted

viv w,

Thanks for reply. Yes this is probably not the original as shown in owners manual but a Ford model A. It is in excellent shape except for the venturi which was pot metal. I've ordered a venturi from Snyder's for five bucks. Everything else I cleaned up and it looks good. Do you know what that two inch long tube that comes out at a 45 degree angle towards the intake end does. Tried blowing air through and spraying with brake cleaner, no air seemed to pass thru.

I did get engine to fire up for the first time 45+ years  It would stop when I tried to accelerate due to venturi being broken and part of it missing. Very rewarding experience.

Posted

Hi,

 Yes, that tube should have a driver, snyders # A9570C, and I would recommend you buy the Choke rod set #A9700C and choke rod sleeve #A9705 and choke rod spring #A9709. You may also need a new choke shaft lever #A9548B, I recommend the brass one, the other one is not a good repro.

 The driver slides over the 45degree tube and has a flat inside it that turns the adjustment needle #A9525 inside the tube. It is important that you unscrew this adjustment needle completely (use the driver or it will break) and clean out at the bottom. At the bottom of this tube is a tiny hole that goes thru to the float chamber, if it is blocked the engine will starve for gas and die, or run very lean. A word of caution, the early Ford A carb has a small brass jet at the bottom of the tube that the needle goes into, later Ford carbs the jet was done away with and the carb body was machined to compensate.

 The choke rod is used from inside to start and run the car. For start up the adjusting needle should be screwed fully in and then backed off about 1&1/2 turns. You then pullout the rod to close the choke, crank the motor until it fires and push the choke in before it floods. You can then screw the adjusting needle in slowly until the engine runs sweetly.

 I found on my car it would run nicely with the needle 1/2 to 1 turn open. If you are pulling up a steep hill or needing extra power then unscrew the needle an extra 1/2 to 1 turn.

I also found after a long run, say 50-60 miles, when the car was hot and I suddenly had to slow down, like coming into a built up area, that the car would start missing due to sticky valves. I found that if I unscrewed the adjusting needle about 2 extra turns, the extra gas seemed to help cool the valves and eliminated the misfire.

 My car was right hand drive, so the choke rod was fitted by drilling a hole in the steering column support, you may have to make up a bracket to hang under your dash to support the choke rod. I left my choke cable in place but tied the cable neatly away inside the engine bay incase I ever found a good original Carb.

 If you find a correct carb and there is parts missing or the venturi has disintegrated  then look at the "Filling station" Chev parts. I have not compared, but I'm pretty sure a lot of the 26-29 Chev carb parts are the same, just the carb body is different.

Viv.

 

Posted

You say first time in 45 years wow. I hope you dropped the oil pan and cleaned it out first, if not I recommend you do that before you try and restart it, there will be all sorts of crud in the bottom. There is also a filter gauze  around the pump that should be cleaned. 

Do not use multigrade oil on this engine, they are not designed for it and your motor will suffer oil pressure problems on multi grade oil. I recommend 40 or even 50 grade oil in hot weather. I ran mine on 40, when our temperature was anything from  45f to 90f . It did not like 40 at the lower temperatures (45f) and I would let it idle to warm up before setting off, but in this country it is only cold in the winter for a short while, so once the motor warmed up a little bit , it was not a problem.

Posted (edited)

Thank you, thank you guys. Looks like I have a little more work to do. Does the 45 degree tube come out? I tried and it would not budge. Pretty mush rounded off the corners trying to remove it. Are there any photos or YouTube videos that high lite this adjustment rod? I appreciate all the good information! Maybe some place that has all the parts (used)?

 

Well got the tube removed, had to hammer on 10 mm box wrench to re-establish corners on nut. Now I see what you were talking about on adjusting mixture (and YouTube). Don't known if the previous owner adjusted mixture, don't see how. 

My existing choke is in middle of dash cluster. Is it possible to use existing choke location by using a flex cable through a tube? Then you could still adjust and pull for choking. How did you set up yours?

Mac's looks like it also has all the parts.

Edited by GraniteBayBob (see edit history)
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, Update of missing linkage on carburetor. I improvised in such a way that dash choke is original but has the added feature of being able to adjust gas needle valve. Used a speedometer cable and it looks and works great. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

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