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I am going to be starting work on a 1922 Dodge Screen side and I understand that the coil is a typical problem and that there are several ways of solving the problem. What are peoples suggestion on how to resolve coil problems. I plan on keeping the truck as found and it will be used by my wife to haul grandkids in parades and picnics so it need to be reliable in hot weather. Any suggestions.<BR>Thanks rolleyes.gif" border="0

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Thanks for the information. Since this will be a vehicle for my wife to use reliablility is the critical item. I will always keep an orignial coil around but I like your idea of using a modern coil. Do you have any more details as to how you set this up?<BR>Thanks, Jan wink.gif" border="0

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Guest leadfoot

Jan -<BR>I went the other route and replaced my original rebuilt coil that had problems with a recent rebuilt original coil from ROMAR, now Vern Barker's ROMAR. Reliability is not an issue now. If you go the modern coil replacement route, I believe that there is an article by Jervy Millemon in the DB Club News that details "how to". Check this page link to the DB website for more details: <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/2672/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/2672/</A>

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Jan,<P>Romar's number is:<P>Vern Barker's Romar<BR>(814) 827-7601 8-10pm ET M-F<P>You may also want to try Roy Brister's Early Dodge Brother Parts:<P>5009 Paloma Ave.<BR>Carmichael, Calif 95608<BR>(916) 973-9778<P>Neither one has a website, so you'll end up having to get their help the old-fashioned way!<P>Regards,<BR>Lee

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Guest leadfoot

Jan -<BR>Some additional sources for early DB electrical system parts -<P>Carson's Antique Auto Parts<BR>Holliston, MA<BR>508.429.2260<P>Special Interest Autos<BR>Ardmore, OK<BR>580.226.0270

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I have the original 1922 coil in my DB and it has never given any problem. Same as to the distributor. I like to keep my car original. If you're going to replace the distributor with a VW unit, the coil with a modern one which looks completely different, and the updraft carb and intake with a modern downdraft, then you shouldn't claim to be driving a DB. If that's your inclination, then just go ahead and drop a 440 V-8 into the thing! Anybody who looks under your hood with all that un-original stuff isn't going to the slightest idea what a real DB is like. Using modern replacement equipment is for people who have neither the skill nor interest to restore the original (or "origional", as Rodger Dodger used to say) equipment.

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I understand your desire to keep a car original...however....I would rather tour with a modern coil, and put the original on for shows. I don't like breakdowns on tours and the modern coils have a higher voltage output than the originals, which results in a smoother running car.<BR> Bill

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Bill:<BR>I appreciate your comments on originality. I purchased the car to allow my wife to take the grandkids in parades and club tours. Trust me this is not when you want your car breaking down. I own a 1916 Model T roadster which is fully restored and all original and doesn't have a water pump. It is a lousy parade car because of the transmission and the tendency to overheat. I also have a 1923 Moon touring which will be a good parade car when completed except for little kids. I also have a 1924 Star which is a good parade car except it sure is hot in it. The Star has a distributor off a Willys due to the nature of the pot metal on the original housing. I have five coils for the Dodge and none of them work. I contacted the four suppliers mentioned and none of them have rebuilt coils avaliable today. This is why I need a modern coil to get the Dodge running. It hasn't run in Forty years. Thanks for everyones suggestions, Jan rolleyes.gif" border="0

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  • 2 months later...

Jan

I own and drive a 1923 Dodge Screenside. I too had coil trouble and opted for the modern coil. I did not modify anything. To do this just unbolt the coil from the housing. Go to the local auto parts store and buy a 12 volt coil with a - (negative) and + (positive) terminal. connect the wire from the key switch to the - (negative) and the wire from the distributor to the + (positive) and set the new coil in the handy dandy empty coil housing. Plug in the center coil wire and you are up and running. Don?t worry about the coil bouncing out. For the past 10 years I have been driving with this coil set up and nobody not even at the international Dodge meet said anything. Now when ever Roy Bristor or ROMAR or who ever get new coils in stock just take 10 minutes to change it out and in the mean time you are up and running without altering the authenticity of your car. Please don?t let something so petty as a temporary coil ruin the immense fun of driving an ?in the process of restoration? Dodge Brothers car. Have fun.

Take it from me that coil will not produce any more horse power then original. It will still be as ferocious as 37 horse power can be.

RAI

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