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wattslm

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About wattslm

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  1. This model 25 has a transaxle. Does the transmission case share the same lubricant with the differential housing? Also, does anyone know the proper oil levels and/or the amount of lubricant to put in when changing gear lube? Any help appreciated. Please email wattslm@juno.com Thanks, Larry
  2. I'm working on a '22 DB touring and need 1 WS frame saddle and 2 inner, cupped washers (hardened) to complete the WS assy (see attached photo). Any help would be appreciated. Email wattslm@juno.com. Thanks very much! Larry
  3. 6inarow, if you still need end caps, contact me at wattslm@juno.com. Larry
  4. I'm in need of a passenger side front door for my early '23 touring. As I am not using exterior door handles, '18 to '22 will also work and I can modify the latch. If you can help, please email to wattslm@juno.com or call 360-966-5294 Thanks very much, Larry Watts
  5. It is the early '23 with round-bottom doors. Sorry, not lock rings. Larry
  6. I have an early '23 touring rear half with doors if any one is interested. It's pretty rusty but may be salvageable. As-is where-is in Everson, WA, $100. Leave me a message on this site. Larry
  7. Hi Bob, I found a pretty good writeup in the DB "Mechanics Instruction Manual" (shop manual) I got from Romar. Mine is a copy of a 1927 publication for 4 cyl vehicles. It helped me put mine back together. The trick is getting the rack and pinnion in the proper position with respect to each other at the bottom of the main body. You can also find the manuals sometimes on Ebay or at swap meets. Or borrow from a friend, or copy the pages from a friends manual. Sorry about the initial response. I was going from memory and got my manuals mixed up. Good luck! Larry
  8. Is anyone familiar with or know if any of the early DB speedometers were manufactured by a company by the name of Jones? This is a dial type with a sweeping hand as opposed to a rotating drum. Years and models used on would be appreciated. Thanks for any information you can give. Larry
  9. Hi Steamer, Yes you can remove old packing and install new while the pump is on the engine. I use a dental tool to remove the old, but any thin, stiff tool with a hook on the end will due. If you haven't done this before, you will need to cut individual rings of the appropriate sized packing and install one behind the other with the joints off-set. Install enough rings to stop the leaking without bottoming out the packing nut. I find it easiest to lay under the car and work from the bottom, but, if your splash guards are in place, this is impossible to do. Be sure to use water pump greese
  10. A few years ago I acquired a '26 Model T Ford basket case with split rims that were out of round and so badly distorted that I couldn't get them to fit on the wheels. My solution was to make a quarter section pattern from 1/4" plywood by tracing the OD of the fellow (which was round). This gave me a starting point. I then took 2 blocks of hardwood and cut one edge of one block concave to match the outside radius of the rim. One edge of the second block was cut convex to match the inside radius of the rim. I sat in a chair, placed a pad over my thighs and positioned the first rim on my lap
  11. My trim measured 7/8" outside for the verticle leg and varied from 1/4 to 5/16" outside for the short (top) leg. I had the shop target 5/16" for the short leg and they came out within a 64th inch. Make sure the bend is sharp and a little tighter than 90 deg so you don't have any gaps under the top edge. For a clean installation, miter the corners and bend around them. For floor boards, butt the ends together on a straight leg, eg., the center of the front or back edge, or end at a notch as for the gear shift or brake lever. Get some extra material from the shop to make your shaped trim pi
  12. With re to floor board and running board trim, I took a sample of my old trim to my local heating and air conditioning (HVAC) shop and had them duplicate the cross section in 28 ga 304 stainless. I had them bend it in 6' sections to an angle a little less than 90 deg and with the burr on the sheared edge pointed down. It looks great and 2 car sets cost less than $50. If done in aluminum it would be less expensive and look like the zink that was on the originals. I used satin finished SS because of it's durability. Just another alternative, Larry
  13. The insoles I bought were grey and about 3/8" thick. I used them for the bell housing-to-pan joint and glued them in with silicone. The felt shouldn't see much if any oil there, and I don't believe engine oil or the temperatures that it will see will damage it anyway. I used black silicone for the rear main seal (no felt). I simply filled the groove with an ample amount of silicone to fill the void between the main bearing cap and the pan and put it together. This technique works well on Model T's (doghouse to block)and A's (main brg seal), so it should work well on DB's, also. Larry
  14. Hi Dave, It's a whole lot easier to just go down to your favorite sporting goods store and get a pair of felt boot liners or insoles of the thickness you want. Then you can cut them into any shape you want. It worked great for me. Larry
  15. Hi Mark, Your wheels would have been 25" wood spoke using 33 X 4 high pressure tires. They had demountable split rims and would have been either Kelsey (steel fellow) or DB brand (wood fellow) I believe. That's about all I can tell you. Happy hunting. Larry
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