Carter BB1 Question

[Taylormade]

I rebuilt my Carter BB1 updraft carb a few month ago and it's been sitting on the shelf waiting for installation.  Today when I took it down, I noticed that the throttle lever was stuck.  I took everything apart and found that the accelerator pump was sticking.  I seemed to have a film of gunk on it although I swear I cleaned it when I did the rebuild.  Anyway, is there any type of lubrication I should use when i put things back together, especially on the shafts?  Would a light bit of lube on the brass drum of the accelerator pump be a good - or a very bad idea?

[carbking]

Carburetor cleaners (2 part liquid in a can) leave a film on everything (one of several reasons we haven't used them in probably 40 years). Since normally, after a rebuild, the carburetor is placed on the car, and filled with gasoline, the gasoline will wash off the film, and there will be no problem. If placed on the shelf, then the OP's experience is what I would expect.

 

We have always suggested IF one uses these carburetor cleaners, that the carb parts should be washed in gasoline prior to final assembly. Or, if one prefers, wash them in hot soapy water followed by hot water to remove the soap before assembly.

 

As far as oiling parts is concerned (opinion): Carter, Holley, and Stromberg all had some felts used as oil sink that should be oiled before assembly. Carter even went so far as to cast into the casting the phrase "oil under screw". These should be oiled. The only other item we have ever oiled (at least that I remember as typing this) is leather accelerator pumps. We would place from 6 to a dozen drops of light machine oil on these prior to assembly. Other than that, I believe oiling one of the brass pumps like used in the BB-1 would have the same result as not cleaning off the film if left for several months on the shelf.

 

As far as how to clean the carburetors:

 

We found an ultrasonic cleaner with an exotic chemical (Dawn dishwater soap) PRIOR to disassembly does a decent job for a simple rebuild. If one is doing a cosmetic restore, then blasting with glass beads, plastic media, walnut shells all would do an excellent job of cleaning softer metals (aluminum, zinc, etc.) but for brass and especially steel, the glass beads were the ammunition of choice. Of course, since this is for a cosmetic restore, once cleaned, the metal pieces were sent to various metal laundering companies to have the correct original style finishes re-applied. I read that baking soda blasters also do a good job, but I have not personally used these, so do not know.

 

Jon.

[Frank DuVal]

I agree with Jon, so do not consider these ideas to be contrary to his.

 

I agree the 2 part cleaners leave a film. Especially after they have been used a while and collect debris. But, I still use them for hobby work.

 

I have soda blasted with baking soda, and the results were AMAZING! This is using the simple rigs on the internet of a modified air blower. Baking soda can be bought in big bags at Costco. The finish is way better than using the 2 part (water seal on top) 5 gallon buckets alone. Any soda left behind is removed with the water rinsing and blowing out process.

 

I have also polished smaller parts in vibratory tumblers with walnut shells (brass parts) and plastic media (steel parts). Also good, really shines brass, but be warned, any holes in parts can become impacted with the tumbler material. Especially the walnut shells! Does not wash out with water. Ha! You will spend a lot of time picking....

 

A Rochester H, HV rebuilder in these parts (Corvair carburetors)  uses Walmart "Lubricant" (the spray stuff for ~ $1) to assemble these for sale at shows later in the year. Works for him. YMMV

 

Someday I will buy an ultrasonic cleaner...

[Taylormade]

Thanks, I suspected the cleaner may have left a film.  Since I'm putting the carb on and immediately starting the engine this time, I shouldn't have a problem.  Famous last words.