1978 Olds Diesel Station wagon

[Guest]

My father (who just turned 80) has a 1978 Olds 350 diesel station wagon which is is his pride and joy (and the bane of my existence). Dad is a retired Navy captain and has a love of all things diesel. My problem is that he wants to keep the car (I think we are on engine #4) but the places to get what should be basic replacement parts (fuel return lines, moldings, etc) has disappeared. In particular I would like to get rid of the 1978 100 amp alternator (which is slightly larger than the entire motor in the new VW and mounted in such a way as to make tightening the belt a physical imposssibility) and put in a newer, better, smaller alternator. I have no idea about swapping/converting parts/brackets/wiring in an Olds (I'm a 1968 Camaro guy myself and tech help and after market parts for Camaros are everywhere) but I figure you folks are the ones to ask when it comes to an Oldsmobile. If anyone out there has any thoughts about getting parts for a 1978 Custom Cruiser wagon/diesel your input would be greatly appreciated. In the same vein any ideas about alternator conversion on the Olds (I assume that as far as wiring goes the same rules to convert a Chevy work for an Olds) and replacement brackets (or where I can get the info.) it would be appreciated as well. I hate fixing the damn thing but since it makes my Dad happy I guess I'm going to keep doing it. There is nothing I can do to improve the VERY BAD idea of making a diesel motor out of a standard Olds 350 gas block but with some help maybe I can improve on some of the other shortcomings. Thanks for any ideas you may have.<P>Scott

[Guest]

Whats wrong with the 100amp?

[rocketraider]

Order yerself a belt tensioner tool from Northern, Harbor Freight or the like. It works like a turnbuckle, put the ends in the pulleys, then screw it out to spread the pulleys and tension the belt. The alt mounting on all Olds-design V8 in those years is screwy, but the above tool will solve the problem.<P>I don't think you want any less than a 100 amp alt in a diesel application. You're charging two batteries and those cars usually have a heavy electrical accessory load.

[NTX5467]

From a performance standpoint, there's nothing wrong with that existing alternator at all. It's a proven design and tends to be much more durable than some of the newer GM alternators that seem to have problems every 35000 miles or so on some applications. Plus, you should be able to buy rebuild parts for it too. Much better to find a tool to adjust the belt!<P>From my hands-on experience with the 5.7L Olds diesels in Chevy pickups, the pumps and such are the main trouble problem areas. The boots on the return lines can cause problems too, due to age and such. It might be possible to get a diesel shop to build some lines without the boots.<P>On your "how many" engine?? Key thing is to use a oil with the correct diesel rating on it and change it as specified. Plus add a water separator to the fuel system, something GM refuesed to do from the factory.<P>One key difference that caused many problems is that the 5.7L Olds diesel was a "light duty" diesel and not a "heavy duty" diesel as you would find in over-the-road diesel trucks. Key distinction. That's why the earlier ones were not rated for trailer towing applications.<P>There were many differences in the diesels over the years. Different pistons in the different car lines for noise concerns, for example, plus the well documented cylinder head applications for each model year. Plus specific pump calibrations.<P>Those Olds gasoline motors back then had one of the strongest bottom ends in the business and the crankshafts were from the meanest Olds 455s that ever lived, so there was definitely some beef down there to start with. The "wimpy" ones were the 260cid diesels in the Cutlasses, but they tended to run better and longer than the 350s for some reason.<P>There obviously were some quality issues in the assembly of these motors at the factory level. I drove our parts trucks as hard as they'd go and never broke anything in 70,000+ miles, but little old ladies broke crankshafts on the way to the grocery store. So, don't blame your "how many" motors on the design, but on the rebuilder and their employees expertise.<P>In prior times, the factory authorized GM reman 5.7L diesels came from A.E.R. manufacturing. A.E.R. is the Ford Authorized engine rebuilder and also does many of the current AC-Delco reman engines.<P>Once you learned to drive, operate, and understand the different characteristics of those 5.7L diesels, they are really good engines if you take care of them.<P>Email me direct if you have any other questions or concerns.<P>As for the moldings and such, some are still available (i.e., bumper fillers), but you'd better get what you can as soon as you can before GM discontinues them for good.<P>Enjoy!<BR>NTX5467@cs.com