1929 Buick questions and advice

[Vintagecarguy]

Hello all, I am going to be looking at a 1929 Buick (it's either a 116 or 121) this coming Monday. I have seen the car before and it is a nice car. Older restoration but done well.

I was curious about any specific things to look out for with this car, any known issues that they may have or should look for?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Vintagecarguy. 

[Mark Shaw]

The cast steel bumper brackets are often broken and are hard to find.  Original radiator caps are also hard to find.  Stainless reproductions are available, but are rather expensive, so do a good inventory of all the smaller parts to buy a complete car.  Inside hardware should be nickel plated, & outside hardware is chrome plated. Check the windshield header for rot that may make the roll-up windshield inoperable.  Also check for broken door hinges & make sure the doors do not sag.  Replacing the wood in the body is a huge job that usually cancels a cost effective restoration.

 

I always advise buyers to check the values of a car finished to your standards and subtract those costs to get the car finished to your liking from the asking price of the car you want to buy.

[Vintagecarguy]

20 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:

The cast steel bumper brackets are often broken and are hard to find.  Original radiator caps are also hard to find.  Stainless reproductions are available, but are rather expensive, so do a good inventory of all the smaller parts to buy a complete car.  Inside hardware should be nickel plated, & outside hardware is chrome plated. Check the windshield header for rot that may make the roll-up windshield inoperable.  Also check for broken door hinges & make sure the doors do not sag.  Replacing the wood in the body is a huge job that usually cancels a cost effective restoration.

 

I always advise buyers to check the values of a car finished to your standards and subtract those costs to get the car finished to your liking from the asking price of the car you want to buy.

Mark Shaw, Thank you for advice. I appreciate it. Everything seemed to be there apart from one outside door handle. I'll be sure to give the car a good look when I see it again.

Also, I noticed that you had a 1929 model 27. Other than the wheelbase, how do you tell the difference between the models? Also, how are these cars to drive?

I've experienced Buicks from 1931 to 1953 and they have all been nice to drive.

 

Thanks again for your help.

Vintagecarguy.

[Thriller]

A lot of information can be gleaned from http://www.29buickphotos.com/

 

If you do make the purchase, Bill McLaughlin (who runs that site) does a quarterly newsletter devoted to 1929 Buicks.  Mark's advice is sound.  I only own one and have puttered with it a little bit - the bulk of the work thus far has been paid for.  Bill drives his car a lot and fast, arguably driving it harder than intended since the roads it was built for were more sedate than today's highways.

 

I've ridden in a Series 129 Touring for a short stint and was pushed into the driver's seat as well.  I can't really offer you much on driving them since my drivers are more modern. That said, everything went well enough to put a smile on my face.  The car I drove was on the cover of the October 2016 Buick Bugle.  I would think there wouldn't be too much difference compared to a 1931, other than a six cylinder rather than eight may not have the same level of power.

 

Good luck.

 

[Vintagecarguy]

3 hours ago, Thriller said:

A lot of information can be gleaned from http://www.29buickphotos.com/

 

If you do make the purchase, Bill McLaughlin (who runs that site) does a quarterly newsletter devoted to 1929 Buicks.  Mark's advice is sound.  I only own one and have puttered with it a little bit - the bulk of the work thus far has been paid for.  Bill drives his car a lot and fast, arguably driving it harder than intended since the roads it was built for were more sedate than today's highways.

 

I've ridden in a Series 129 Touring for a short stint and was pushed into the driver's seat as well.  I can't really offer you much on driving them since my drivers are more modern. That said, everything went well enough to put a smile on my face.  The car I drove was on the cover of the October 2016 Buick Bugle.  I would think there wouldn't be too much difference compared to a 1931, other than a six cylinder rather than eight may not have the same level of power.

 

Good luck.

 

Thriller, thank you for the advice. I will give the site a look.

Thanks again.

Vintagecarguy

[Mark Shaw]

On 2/17/2017 at 8:56 AM, Vintagecarguy said:

Mark Shaw, Thank you for advice. I appreciate it. Everything seemed to be there apart from one outside door handle. I'll be sure to give the car a good look when I see it again.

Also, I noticed that you had a 1929 model 27. Other than the wheelbase, how do you tell the difference between the models? Also, how are these cars to drive?

I've experienced Buicks from 1931 to 1953 and they have all been nice to drive.

 

Thanks again for your help.

Vintagecarguy.

 

The smaller 116 series does not have a round bar between the front frame horns.  Even the smaller series Buicks have a better ride and more room than a Model A Ford.  Buicks are robust cars that are built more like trucks.  Be wary of speed bumps that can eject rear seat passengers into the headliner (ask me how I know this).

Edited February 19, 2017 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[Vintagecarguy]

3 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:

 

The smaller 116 series does not have a round bar between the front frame horns.  Even the smaller series Buicks have a better ride and more room than a Model A Ford.  Buicks are robust cars that are built more like trucks.  Be wary of speed bumps that can eject rear seat passengers into the headliner (ask me how I know this).

Mark Shaw, Thank you very much for the information! I really appreciate it! Out of curiosity, and because I ask about it with every car that has a spark lever, does the spark lever have to be retarded for starting, or can it be left in the advanced position? I have read others say that it does not have to be used, but I just want to be sure.

Thanks again. Vintagecarguy. 

[Larry Schramm]

To start, best practice is for the spark should be retarded.  Turn it counter clockwise.

[Mark Shaw]

Larry is correct to reduce the strain on the starter.  However, six cylinder cars will start OK with spark advanced.

 

I always retard the spark when hand cranking my cars, but I often forget when using electric start.

[Vintagecarguy]

1 hour ago, Larry Schramm said:

To start, best practice is for the spark should be retarded.  Turn it counter clockwise.

 

35 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:

Larry is correct to reduce the strain on the starter.  However, six cylinder cars will start OK with spark advanced.

 

I always retard the spark when hand cranking my cars, but I often forget when using electric start.

Larry and Mark, thank you both for your advice. I really appreciate it!

Vintagecarguy