Chrysler CD8 folding Windshield assembly parts

[Gunsmoke]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the folding windshield and sidearm/stancions for my '31 Chrysler CD8 Roadster. Images show what I have to start with and I am trying to determine what is missing and what the missing parts look like. For those not familiar with setup, the sidearm/stancions are 2-piece, and pivot as shown, pivot joint is a tapered setup which clamps tight when Pivot Thumbscrew and Pivot washer assembly is tightened. Windshield upper pivot involves 2- 1" half circle clamping blocks which revolve on a round "bearing", and fit in a 1" squarish hole in upper sidearm. a 5/16" thumb screw/bolt locks these clamps against bearing preventing windshield from rotating. Finally, some sort of cap screw/washer assembly (3/16" standards thread) screws snugly into end of bearing stud to hold whole assembly together (helps prevent arms from spreading apart although they are pretty secured in cowl anyway).

 

As seen, I have the windshield pivots and studs which also hold the windshield frame together, and are removed for replacing glass. I have one steel clamping block and need to find or make 3 more (need 2 for each end).I have as shown the "Stud Locking Washers" but the tabs are broken off as is the pin that would prevent them from rotating (see hole in bearing for pin). Will need these or make some. I have no information on just what the ""Frame Pivot Cap Assembly" as mentioned in parts book looks like, essentially what covers the end of the windshield pivot? is it a specialized washer and cap screw? or a thumbscrew of some sort?. Note hole in stud is sized for 3/16" standard thread, not very substantial.

 

At the stancion/sidearm pivot joint, I have one special washer, about 2" dia brass with a pin to prevent it from rotating. The "Pivot Thumbscrew" is missing, would be tapped for 3/8" fine thread, and I suspect there may have been an additional washer between thumbscrew and the special washer shown. A photo shows a 1/16" gap between the stancion and sidearm when clamped together on taper. Anyone know if a brass washer/spacer or other seal went in this gap? I've searched several sites and images for details on these assemblies and found nothing. If anyone has a detailed illustration or further info let me know. Thanks

[F&J]

23 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:

I have no information on just what the ""Frame Pivot Cap Assembly" as mentioned in parts book looks like, essentially what covers the end of the windshield pivot?

 

 

I worked with 29-31 Desoto and Ply.  The upper washer at the pivot, as I recall, was pressed sheetmetal, perhaps two piece. (like some two piece clothing buttons are made) There was a decorative thin circular groove halfway between the center hole and the outer diameter.  The center hole was beveled for a oval-head machine screw with a straight screw driver slot.

 

that washer really was not strong enough to keep the posts from spreading.  Like said, the posts fit firm in the cowl brackets.

 

On ‎1‎/‎14‎/‎2017 at 3:49 PM, Gunsmoke said:

A photo shows a 1/16" gap between the stancion and sidearm when clamped together on taper.

 

that gap is needed to keep the taper fit tight, without the two parts hitting elsewhere, which would mess up the taper fit strength.

 

On my 31 Ply with folding posts:  The driver side post had wiper vacuum running through it.  It should have a vacuum port in the tapers, which match together when posts are upright.  That is another reason for tight fitting tapers, to keep vacuum from leaking.

 

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[Gunsmoke]

Thanks F&J. The description you provide for the "frame pivot cap assembly" sounds about right, serves about the same purpose as a wire wheel hubcap, covers the hole but mostly decorative. A "double layer" cap will allow inner piece to make contact with stud bolt, and also provide sufficient gap to permit the recess/countersink depression to take the 45 degree angle on the machine screw. as such, the cap rotates with the window frame when window is tilted outward from bottom. So fit against side of stancion would be at best snug. One would not want the machine screw rotating solely in the stud hole as it might eventually back it's way out. 

 

My driver side stancion has the groove for the 1/8" copper vacuum line for the wiper, and the mentioned holes in taper area. Quite ingenious means of getting a hidden line to top of windshield, although once there they didn't do anything to hide the ugly rubber line from there to wiper motor as seen in this original image of CD8 interior from 1931. Thanks for your advice, I suspect Chrysler did same or similar to Plymouth and DeSoto. As for the gap at taper, I think a 1/16" soft rubber seal here would be a good idea, would prevent dirt/water etc from getting in groove, and as soft rubber would not interfer with clamping tight. 

Edited January 15, 2017 by Gunsmoke
added details (see edit history)