capgage Posted October 17, 2000 Share Posted October 17, 2000 I am blasting and painting the underhood sheetmetal parts on by 58 Century, and some of these (like inner fenders, underside of battery tray) have thick undercoating on them which will not be removed by blasting.<P>I have been using some paint/varnish remover called Kutzit (usually used on wood) and this has helped loosen it up some, but it still takes labor intensive scraping to remove the undercoating, and even then it takes several stages of applying this caustic stuff which burns the skin also if you are not careful.<P>Anyone have any better ideas for doing this?<P>Thanks,<BR>Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Caithness Posted October 17, 2000 Share Posted October 17, 2000 Stove oil will disolve the undercoating but as you would guess caution must be used. The best approach is to cut a 45 gallon drum in half, fill with stove oil and allow the part to soak for a few days out in an open area. The undercoat will then come off with a metal putty knife. Others have used kerosene with similar results.<P>------------------<BR>Don Caithness<BR>Technical Advisor<BR>1967&1974 "A" Body<P><BR> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 17, 2000 Share Posted October 17, 2000 Eastwood has advertised a new product to remove undercoating. It may be worth a try.<BR> <A HREF="http://www.eastwoodco.com" TARGET=_blank>www.eastwoodco.com</A> <BR>Search for "under gone kit"<P> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DugsSin Posted October 17, 2000 Share Posted October 17, 2000 I seem to remember this on the DF awhile back and the method that came to the surface as the cream of the crop was to use a wide flame on a propane torch on the oppsite side of the undercoating. This breaks the adhesion and the undercoating can be scraped off. You know how careful you have to be with this method. :yikes Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2000 Share Posted October 19, 2000 To remove undercoating use a wax, tar & grease remover. Dupont calls this product "PrepSol" and is also called different names by various companies. Soak the PrepSol on the undercoated area and use a putty knife to get the heavy build up off. You may have to repeat this several times. After it is removed, clean the area with lacquer thinner before sand blasting. Good luck, John Lyman.Buick Advisor & Auto Body Instructor, ASE Certified Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scott mich bca # 6619 Posted October 19, 2000 Share Posted October 19, 2000 I used a washcloth soaked in laquer thinner, <BR>applied many times and scraped with a putty knife on my '55. It is a lot of work, and I must say you must be EXTRA careful when working with any solvents. You must have plenty of air flow. A pair of chemical resisting gloves and a drill with a wire wheel are also handy. Also with the wire wheel usage, wear eye protection. The little wires have a tendancy to fly off, and if you get one in your eye, you'll be sorry.<P>Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capgage Posted October 19, 2000 Author Share Posted October 19, 2000 Thanks for all the ideas!!!!<P>I have to say, though, that I tried the torch method that Doug suggested and it works GREAT! It's clean (no solvents involved), quick (no multiple applications), and really not that difficult or dangerous if you are careful. I am using the torch method as a first pass (removes 95% of undercoating), followed by a quick cleanup with a varsol-type solvent that is relatively benign as far as solvents go, then blasting in the cabinet. I must say I am very happy with the results.<P>If I ever have more room and isolation from neighborly prying eyes in the future, I may try the stove oil or kerosene-in-the-drum method for some hands-off cleaning. I don't think I will find stove oil (same as heating oil?) in Texas, and my neighbors cats may find their way into an open drum-o-kerosene unless I made some kind of fancy venting hood/lid type of arrangement. Also this type of setup would not be looked upon favorably in an environmentally sensitive area such as the one I live in (Austin, TX Barton Springs Watershed). Can't spill any chemicals here!<P>Thanks again,<BR>Mark<P>PS Doug I haven't forgotten about your nailhead buildup articles...sorry for the delay! I need to complete the copies... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted October 20, 2000 Share Posted October 20, 2000 Mark<BR>I have used the torch/varsol/blasting method and it works great. Nothing else was acceptible even the engine tanks at my local machine shop.<BR>(hope to see you in Fredricksberg this weekend)<BR>Willie<p>[This message has been edited by old-tank (edited 10-19-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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