replacing weatherstripping

[rocky5517]

Any tips on how to replace the weatherstripping , doors, 2nd gen Riv? I bought replacements but they dont look right- too short. Also, I can remove existing fairly easy but am leaving in place as reference till I can figure out what's what. This is the large rubber that the window would snug up against when cranking window up tight.

Does it get glued? Original doesn't seem to be glued.

[JZRIV]

Sam

Just to make sure I understand, are you replacing roof rail stripping or just the door stripping with molded ends?

[rocky5517]

A picture's worth a thousand words, I heard someone say..

[68RIVGS]

The roof rail weather seal does not run the full length of the roof. The seal for the rear quarter glass is molded hard rubber and does not get replaced.

The front soft portion is taped to the rear hard rubber portion just behind the front door glass. There is a small  countersunk screw at the top front rear seal that will allow the rear hard molded portion to be lowered to accomplish the taped joint. It is well detailed in the Buick Chassis manual.

[rocky5517]

Wow! That sure does answer some questions Randy!! Now on to the chassis manual. I thought the seal I bought was too short. Why do you think Buick engineers used this configuration?

[JZRIV]

Have to use patience when separating the foam weather strip from the hard rubber at top of quarter window/door window joint. The original weatherstrip is wire reinforced and connected with a hidden screw at joint. As Randy stated the joint is taped. Often this thin nylon fabric-type tape remains is good condition (especially in NE cars) and can be reused. Before doing anything carefully attempt to peel this tape back (front to back). Then you can carefully begin to cut the seal and undo the wire reinforcement at joint.

 

The original seals I've removed had plenty of adhesive so be sure to thoroughly clean all old adhesive out of track. For installation of new seal start at front working way back pushing the lip of seal under overhang in stainless track. Use a small blunt tool for this and a good light so you can see. Go slow to be certain the seal lip is fully seated in place. You can use dabs of weatherstrip adhesive along the way for insurance but in my experience the new seals seem to fit tight enough that they won't become dislodged especially with limited use and rain many cars see today. It is a good idea to use adhesive at each end. The use of adhesive from factory was probably just as much to guarantee preventing leaks as it was to attach the seal.

 

As you install there is a tendency to stretch the seal lengthwise as it is very flexible. Try not to do this and allow it to install in a relaxed position. Once you get to the rear joint carefully mark and cut square with a new razor blade. Always best to cut slightly longer and allow it to compress slightly. Use weatherstrip adhesive behind and between the mating surfaces. Once you are satisfied with the joint, use contact cement to reapply the original nylon tape back over the joint.

 

One more thing, the little metal u-shaped seal retained towards top of A pillar originally had a rubber-like finish that often is deteriorated. Before installing seal is a good time to recoat these with plasti-dip or liquid electrical tape.

Edited October 12, 2016 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[rocky5517]

Wow/ A bit more than I bargained for but off we go!! the replacement has two small rubber "pins"/ are they supposed to lock in somewhere? Forward, or towards rear?

[JZRIV]

Those push in at the front end. The original should already have a couple there but the holes may not match up exactly. If not, reference the original seals ending location, match new piece in place and poke a new hole(s) to align with holes drilled in bottom of A-pillar. Sometimes the new plastic push pins are difficult to insert without bending. you may need to very slightly enlarge the hole.

Worst part of job is mating the new to the old rear quarter hard rubber piece and making a nice smooth looking transition.