No Spark Low oil pres/RPM going nuts

[Seth Rose]

Hey guys long time no talk been away at BMT and just got home for leave and am working on my reatta while ive got the chance.  

when I left the car I had driven it and then shut it off and then it would not restart I replaced the CPS and the car would start and run rough so I got a new ICM as mine was corroded to heck and nasty and figured a new coil wouldn't hurt either.  Now it wont run at all acts like it has no spark and I can smell fuel.  a few other things I should mention when I turn the key to the run position and wait I get a low oil pressure warning I never got before and when I flip to the gauges the RPM is bouncing around between 4250 and max rpm even though im not even cranking the car.  any help would be much appreciated thanks.

[Seth Rose]

Got the car to run today but its running very rough it was the CPS as far as it not getting spark to run did the matchbook trick and it worked great.  I checked the on board diagnostics and did get a few codes.

E041 current/history cam sensor circuit. Im going to check the wiring sensor and interrupter magnet tomorrow using the manual.

E034 history mass airflow sensor freq. low. I'll clean it and the IAC with some carb cleaner or maybe some seafoam.

B671 current cruise position sensor.  Im not extremely worried about having cruise but hey Ive got the manual and time I might check it out. 

Heres to hoping that cam sensor will fix the rough idle if not Im sure I'll be back to ask more questions.

Also I am happy to serve.  I have enjoyed the experience so far and it was a great choice.  Thank you for the help 

[Dashmaster]

Thank You for Serving Seth!! The E041 code will not cause a rough idle. That is one code that is very hard to eliminate from the ECM. My car has the E041 history code and have not been able to clear it and I have thoroughly checked all aspects of the circuit on mine.

When it runs rough was it warmed up into closed loop? Or cold not up to temp? . The MAF and OX are the only sensors that adjust fuel mixture.You can test each by unplugging them and testing one at a time. On my car when I had bad OX sensor car would idle very rough and sometime stall. They work together so if the OX is bad the MAF can't adjust fuel properly.  I would test the OX sensor if you have not already done so.

[Seth Rose]

well I still have the rough idle I took it for a drive today and it runs like crap from a dead stop.  Afterfires through the muffler it acts like its getting to much fuel and the RPM's are still jumping all over the place Ill go and get the figures on the diagnostics and let you all know what I find out. I should mention it just has a pod fliter on it and its straight piped to a flowmaster with no cat because it broke off there and I just replaced it with a piece of pipe.

so far ive replaced the

ICM and coil

crank sensor

cam sensor and interuptor got rid of my E041 code 

OX sensor

and I scored a new EGR for 20 bucks at wrench n' go

also I took the throttle body off and cleaned the IAC MAF and all the gunk out of the throttle body its self. 

 

[Seth Rose]

ok this is with the car not running so maybe I did the diagnostics wrong but here we go. im going to cross reference this data as we speak with the data in the book but if someone sees something wrong or maybe im doing something wrong please tell me because I really wanna drive this car before I leave. 

TPS .62 and then goes up to 4.20

ED06 18.7 MS INJ PW

ED07 .45 OX

ED08 70 degree spark

ED11 20 RPM

ED16 0 degree ESC

ED17 0 OPA3

ED18 0 CROSS CTS

ED19 128 INT FUEL

ED20 128 BLM FUEL

ED21 .0 AIR FLOW

ED22 150 IAC

ED23 33 degree MAT

ED98 2 IGN CYCLES

ED99 2544 PROM ID

 

 

[Seth Rose]

The EGR was brand new so i don't know I might put the other back on and try it. And yes the car was off when I did the diagnostic check. I know it's better if it's running but I was letting the car cool down I'd just drove it I'll try it tomorrow while it's running. And I thought it might be a vacuum leak I'll see if I can get that figured out. Thanks 

[DAVES89]

I'm going with ICM/Coil pack or MAF sensor. I have beat this drum so long even I am tired of the sound but if anyone wants to drive a 25 year old [plus] car you have to have TESTED back up parts on the shelf. Whenever I have a problem and swap out a part from backstock I promptly go to my local You Pick and grab another. I then put that on the car and make sure it is good. I am not as good at diagnostics as some of the others [Padgett, Ronnie, Kdirk,] so I only swap out one part at a time to make sure I don't get ahead of myself by swapping two or three parts and then still wondering if the problem persists. 

 One might think that because I have more then 1 reatta that I can just swap one part to another but I have always resisted idea. It just doesn't make sense to me. 

[Seth Rose]

alright I found a pretty substantial vaccum leak that appears to leading to the bottom of the EGR I got that fixed and the car did run better so I let it warm up and ran the diagnostic again and these are the numbers I have now

ED01 .62 TPS

ED04 84 DEGREES COOLANT TP

ED06 4.9-5.3 MS INJ PW 

ED07 .53-.55 OXY SENOR

ED10 14.2 BATT VOLTS

ED11 800-850 RPM

ED16 0 DEGREES ESC

ED17 3131 OPA3

ED18 30-40 CROSS CTS

ED19 128 INT FUEL

ED20 105 BLM FUEL

ED21 8.0 AIR FLOW

ED22 39 IAC

ED23 18 DEGREES MAT

ED98 4 IGN CYCLES

Again it sounded much better I put it in reverse and the idle went down to about 600-650 RPM I have not test drove it yet just wanted to make sure these number sounded correct to you guys thank you so much you've all been very helpful another reason I love this site.

[Seth Rose]

Just drove it and it still chugs and sputters  from 0 to 1/4 throttle and the RPMs are bouncing still. Perhaps I don't have the crank sensor set correctly still?  I used a matchbook like someone suggested and pushed the sensor up to it but we noticed it can be angled to much in either direction.  We pulled the rings off the balancer and cleaned them we were sure to mark it before we removed them so we put them back on correctly.  It still registers 20 RPM while not running...confusing 

Edited October 8, 2016 by Seth Rose (see edit history)

[ChrisWhewell]

I had similar once, it turned out it was an open spark plug, and a bad wire, each on different cylinders but both failed at the same time

[Seth Rose]

The rings on the balancer just have 4 allen headed bolts that hold them on and yes they had a build up of crud on them.  I think the rail is leaking I was looking at it today when it was running and there was a small amount of fuel coming out of the shrader valve where you can check fuel pressure. Can the OX sensor be salvaged some how if it is poisoned? I'll set the TPS tomorrow thanks guys. 

[Seth Rose]

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