Advice on pulling drum/bearing on my 1940

[Daves1940Buick56S]

So I have got myself into a pickle once again by not paying sufficient attention. As part of the front brake renewal job, I went ahead and got new bearings and races. When I was putting it back together it seemed the outer bearing inner race was a bit tight but I didn't think anything about it. When I had to pull a drum off the next day to check on possible brake fluid leakage, it would not budge! Nor the other side! What has happened is the outer races of the outer bearings are a bit too tight and I essentially pressed them onto the spindle. Bad on me for not checking before install, I still am under the assumption that new parts should fit correctly.

 

Anyhow, I ended up making a puller from a 2x4 on its side, 2 - 12" eye bolts that I ground into hooks, and a center bolt. So it worked fine on the right side but the left side will not budge, even under a lot of pressure. I could go ahead a drive it for a while and see if it works loose (although I suspect the bearings are under preload), or maybe apply heat to the race, but would that destroy the bearing? I suppose I could try drilling out the race but I bet the material is pretty hard. Any ideas on saving myself from myself?

 

Cheers, Dave

[Guest]

Rosebud torch on the outer race with a side of fire extinguisher for good measure! Stay off the spindle with the heat and watch the lube for flameup, maybe have an assistant at the ready with the fire puoter outer! Extinguisher for U city folk. Spare rim to mount without tire for BFH/deadblow to hit from backside of rim or Loop log chain behind rim or bolted to face, hooked in "choke" configuration, about 8 ft of slack, grab chain "bitter" end, Navy term for end not hooked up, with leather gloves. Pull up on chain sharply to start a wave lifting toward wheel, crack chain downward like cracking a whip, just as the wave in the chain gets to the wheel. Keep sidewalk supervisors back safe distance! Get you timing right and you can put as much or more force than a puller ever thought of. When the olt giyes was workin' on steam tractors in the field wit my Dad they showed em' some tricks so they could still make hay in spite of tings dat go bad! Really works great to pull tight rear axles too! Practice, practice, practice on the whip action! Good luck! No charge. Money back if not completely satisfied Ole!

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Thanks Greg! I also had another thought - what if I loosen up the nut about 3 flats, put in the cotter and try driving it with some brake applications? Won't that put a tremendous amount of outward pressure on the race? Probably much more than I could apply with a puller and no distorting of the drum. If that works then loosen it some more with more braking and at that point the puller should work.

[Dave_B]

Dave,

i think loosening the spindle nut a half turn is a good idea. Give a try and let us know how it works out. 

Dave

[Larry Schramm]

Proper application of enough heat and in the correct location with the blue flame wrench is your best friend.  Just make sure the brake shoes are not hanging up on the drum.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Dave: I hope so, put it back together today, seems fine, no heating of the hub at all so far. Also, the really bad pull to the left that I had before is gone!

 

Larry: Well, I got a propane torch but nothing hotter, although it does have a blue flame! Would that be hot enough?

 

Cheers, Dave

[Larry Schramm]

1 hour ago, Daves1940Buick56S said:

Dave: I hope so, put it back together today, seems fine, no heating of the hub at all so far. Also, the really bad pull to the left that I had before is gone!

 

Larry: Well, I got a propane torch but nothing hotter, although it does have a blue flame! Would that be hot enough?

 

Cheers, Dave

 

Maybe, but probably not.  Think of about 5th grade science with the ball and ring.  Heat the ball and it will not go through the ring. Heat the ring(drum) and it will let the ball pass through.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Well my self-loosening plan didn't work, so I got a MASSIVE^TM puller from OTC. Clapped in on and was able to pull the hub/drum right off. Took 0.003" off the ID of the outer race and good to go! Forgot to mention that during this process the front left brake line ruptured so I had to bend a new line and put in. I think that may have been the last of the original steel brake lines.

 

Cheers, Dave

[Larry Schramm]

On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 5:29 PM, Daves1940Buick56S said:

 

Larry: Well, I got a propane torch but nothing hotter, although it does have a blue flame! Would that be hot enough?

 

Cheers, Dave

 

Maybe yes, but probably not. Remember elementary school science where you heated the ring and ball. Heated the ring and the ball would go through, but heating the ball it would not go through the ring.  Getting the drum off is heating the ring so it will expand away from the axle.

 

Glad you got the drum off.

Edited September 21, 2016 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)