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A quick oil change 1928 Series 62


maok

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Time has come to finally to do a full oil change and find out why there is so much rtv around the oil pan.

 

In this pic you can see a separate collar at the end of the pan. What does it do? There was a felt gasket between it and the pan, why?

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Sludge anyone?

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Cleaned with a wire wheel ready for painting. 

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Some blockage in the pick up filter that will not dislodge, even with high pressure water.

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Method to hold the cork in  place to trace the inside line.

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Sludge in the bottom flywheel cover.

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Edited by maok
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Thanks. Good to know.

 

It appears that an 'Aussie' did some work on this engine in the past.

They used the good old aussie technique of 'she'll be right mate!'  - left out 4 bolt and nuts from the bottom flywheel cover.

 

 

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G’day Mate,

You mean to tell me you have to put ALL the Nuts and Bolts back in? LOL.

That extra Collar the one with the felt gasket is to seal the gap in between the pan and the bottom flywheel cover, you’re lucky that the bugger remembered to put that back on as that is one of the things that goes missing from most cars after replacing a Clutch, it helps to keep dust and dirt from getting into the Bell housing. 

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Thanks Alex. You are becoming my personal advisor, and at a very good pay rate.

 

I haven't put it back on yet. The 'She'll be right mate'  technique I try to avoid but sometimes you just can't avoid it....:)

 

 

 

 

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I'd put some duck tape around the Filter housing to protect it and then put the housing with the oil pump directly above it into a vice and tighten the vice so that the housing won't turn when you rotate the oil pump, you should be able to use a spanner or vice grips to get a grip on the pump house and with a bit of luck it will come off.

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Thanks mate, but I am concerned that the solder between the housing and shaft may break if I apply too much torque.

 

I'm thinking of cutting the bolts under the housing. There is enough remove to use slightly shorter new bolts when refitting.

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Had no other option but to cut the bolts off, replaced them with 1/2" length versions which were perfect fit under the housing.

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After 2 hours of blocking it back with a large flat grinding stone. My arm has fallen off.

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Some Stag jointing paste with the paper gasket.

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Splash of colour 'teal blue', almost a match to the engine.

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Just a note, I wouldn`t have put paste between the pump and plate.

 

The clearance between the pump body and top cover is one of the critical dimensions in assuring that the pump maintains pressure, in fact if you have a maintenance manual reference it probably lists a specific clearance value between theses two pieces, usually in the region of .005" to .010".

 

Having been diligent in stoning out the wear marks you have now undone this good work by increasing the clearance between pump rotors and top cover

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Thanks mate.

 

The WHAT? Doh!!!!!

 

Unfortunately the felt was cactus. I used 3mm cork as a replacement.

 

But, I noticed today, after good 20 minute run, that there is a very small black oil leak down the rear fly wheel cover, which is strange because it has nice fresh 20w - 50 oil in her...:(

Probably rear main bearing seal leak.

 

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:(

Smallest of leaks, not the end of the world.

The collar has a bend in it that looks like it shouldn't be there. I will sort it out when I flush this oil in a couple of hundred miles.

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Oil pressure gauge reads between 20 - 30 psi while driving around 30mph, but keeps dropping to between 10-20psi after 30 mins of driving. I will give a turn or two on the oil pressure relief valve spring.

The engine definitely sounds smoother and lot less noisy.

 

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