my31buick Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Ok guys, I have got my 31 - 50 all together again. I set the ignition points and adjustments as described in the specifications manual. But I still had a miss. . The muffler is rotted pretty bad and needs replacement so it makes it a little noisy. So I have a question. If I understand correctly # 1 cylinder fires 12 degrees before top dead center. If everything is adjusted correctly should I be able to use a timing light and use the 12 degree mark on the flywheel to double check that the timing is right or am I missing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I can only speak from a 1932 50 series perspective. The 31 32 engines are very similar. I do know there was a cam change in the 2 years, but I don't think it had to do with lob configuration. A 1932 50 series should be 7 degrees btd on timing. The big challenge on setting up these distributors is getting the 2 sets of points set correctly. It is very easy to get the a couple degrees of variation between the 2 sets. I like to take the distributor to a shop that has a Sun distributor machine. It is easy to set the proper angular setting for the 2 sets of points as well as the dwell and also check the mechanical advance curve. With this done, it is then only necessary to install the distributor on #1 cylinder firing. With this done, you can be sure that ignition is properly set up. Have you tried to retard the timing using the spark control while the engine is running? Another thing to watch is that no spark plug wires are shorting on the wire cover. The mechanical advance curve should begin to work around 400 rpm and be about 20 degrees advance at 1600 rpm. these older cars did not have good coil saturation and so the dwell setting is important to get max coil output. You could try using a newer coil from an early 50 6 volt system and see if there is any difference with a new coil. Another test to isolate a spark plug or plug wire problem is to short one plug at a time and see if you can isolate the miss to a particular cylinder. Gasoline is much more consistent than what was used in the early 30's. The higher octane can allow some change in the timing. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if you can see the vacuum jumping. If it is consistent, try turning the distributor to get maximum vacuum and us this as you timing setting. On my model A Ford, I set the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder, and then filed a notch on the crank pulley. I then use this notch with a timing light to set the timing rather than the pin in a static condition. I hope these suggestions help Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Good instructions Bob. The simple way is as Bob said: "Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if you can see the vacuum jumping. If it is consistent, try turning the distributor to get maximum vacuum and us this as you timing setting." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Good instructions Bob. The simple way is as Bob said: "Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if you can see the vacuum jumping. If it is consistent, try turning the distributor to get maximum vacuum and us this as you timing setting." And then I back the distributor back off a couple of degrees from maximum vacuum. Just what I do and not let it stay at max vacuum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my31buick Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 hey guys thanks for the input. I did go thru the entire timing process/ points setting procedure again. Not sure what I had wrong but the points gap was a little more than should have been. got it running smooth now. Is this the best way or go ahead and set it with the vacuum Gauge? Thanks for all the help. Mark I have the block I got from you at the engine shop. They are going to try and outfit it with insert bearings. The rods will likely be 350 chevy bearings. They are having trouble figuring out what to do for the mains. I was able to purchase a few more rods too. If all goes well I should have a spare short block with inserts ready if ever needed. If anyone has an extra head I would be willing to buy it so I could have a complete engine ready for the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I have a bunch of 32 50 series engine and drive train parts. Condition unknown. If yo are interested in anything, send me a pm. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) I have never heard of the main bearings ever needing to be re-done; they should outlast the car with good lubrication. Edited September 8, 2015 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my31buick Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 ok Thanks guys.. Bob Im so thankful that you got me fixed up on this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 Good instructions Bob. The simple way is as Bob said: "Hook up a vacuum gauge and see if you can see the vacuum jumping. If it is consistent, try turning the distributor to get maximum vacuum and us this as you timing setting." Where is the ideal or suggested place to hook up a vacuum gauge for this process? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 On the intake manifold. Usually try for a port near the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted September 9, 2015 Share Posted September 9, 2015 On the early straight 8's, I use the vacuum line port off the top of the intake manifold. I'ts easy to use and the only good place on these early 8's. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my31buick Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Hey guys, I do not have a vacuum gauge YET. But will have one soon. Just curious. You have mentioned hooking a vacuum gauge up and checking that it is not jumping. What does it mean if it is jumping? Head gasket or valve adjustment ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 Just google vacuum gauge car and you will find several excellent sites with great explanations. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Here is a chart with everything you want to know about a vacuum gauge attached to a running engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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