Tony M Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Hello again ALL. While I was dropping everything to replace the oil pan gasket I came across another " I might as well do this while I'm this far" This time it was removing the exhaust manifolds while the crossover pipe was removed. I saw this crack on the passenger side while I was under the car. ALL of the bolts were loose so that was a good thing. They were easy enough to get out since I made room . As you can see by the pictures, the manifold is not only cracked, but it seems that it is missing a lot of meat on the one flange. Can the crack be repaired ? Is the one port that is lacking some of the surface mating material something that I should be concerned with ? Or is that a common issue ? Also, I have been reading a lot of information that recommends NOT using a gasket for the manifold to head connection. What is the consensus on this subject ? The surface of both the heads and the manifolds seem to be pretty flat and true. Thanks again....Tony M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I would look for another manifold. I think the crack will be hard to seal, but the one with the skimpy flange will probably work ok. as for the gaskets, you can always try it without em first. If it works then that's how they were originally installed. But in my limited experience I have found you always need the gaskets unless you take the heads and the manifolds to a machine shop and have the surfaces milled to perfection. Just curious about the theory of no exhaust manifold gaskets. What was the reasoning behind the recommendation to leave em out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 The first I remember hearing about not using gaskets was from Russ Martin's website. I have used gaskets and had no problems. The last engine I did I used only high temp silicone. The silicone (if used sparingly) looks better than the big gaskets. How is that for a non-answer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 I heard that "That's the way they came from the factory...No gaskets" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DiXiEnailhead Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I think I have a spare manifold for 20.00 if interested. You can weld cast iron but it just doesn't bond as well as it would with steel. The vibration and expansion/contraction of the iron as a result of the heat will eventually lead to a crack forming again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Thank you very much. Can you send a picture of that manifold ? Thanks again. I will message you for info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Until you find another manifold, you can get some service out of that one with JBWeld in the crack, gaskets with high temp RTV. anti-seize on all nuts and bolts and re-torque after every use for a few times. I had one that looked like that in service for 60,000 miles...had a hard time finding my spare . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DiXiEnailhead Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony M Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 looks like a match. I will send you my contact info on PM. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1956century Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 I had similar issues. I welded up the flange (with difficulty) and ground it down as flat as I could get it, using a straight edge for reference. I used a gasket to take up the tolerance. Has been working fine with no leaks or additional cracks (for now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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