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My 1937 Dodge is VERY difficult to start!


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I've got a 1937 dodge that all of the sudden has developed a problem. It will not start without a lot of coaxing (ie priming the carb with gas or starting fluid (and sometimes this wont work)). When it will start the car runs fine and drives normally, however when I shut it off it will NOT start again regardless of how long the engine has been run for! I've retimed the engine, checked the battery and for spark at the plugs, everything should work, but it doesn't! Any ideas?

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Hey Tarren,<BR>I have a '37 Chrysler that has had similar problems. I need more info to try to help you. First, does the engine crank on the starter quite freely or does it seem to labor? You know, something like: UUUH.....UUUH....UUUH or does it crank over like RRRR-RRRR-RRRR? If the starter is laboring, your problem is battery, cable size, starter or even battery terminal related. frown.gif" border="0 <BR>Give some more details and maybe we can help!

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the engine turns over just fine, like it always has, the battery holds a good charge, I've checked everything I can think of short of tearing down the carb. and it all checks out! That is why I am so baffled!<P>thanks for the reply

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I had similiar problems, eventually changed plugs, problem solved. Plugs took looked OK, just didn't want to start. Put some NOS (old) plugs in and started real easy. Don't know why the "new" plugs didn't want to go

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BTW, the engine wont even sputter when I use starting fluid or gas. The engine acts like there is no spark at the plug, but there is, I checked.

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I gotta second that vote for new plugs. i was working on a 53 Mercedes one time and put new plugs in it...fired right up. The next day the owner flooded it and I had get it started for him. the new plugs were gas fowled and ruined. put another new set of plugs in it and it fired right up. A gas fouled spark plug can cause lots of problems and look good.<BR> my 2 cents<BR> Bill

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You know, now that I think about it, this problem started very soon after I put in new Champion plugs. I've used them in my motorcycle and have had similar problems, but I figured that might be becuase the motorcycle has a high compression (10:1) engine and the Dodge doesn't. I'll replace the plugs and let you guys know if the symptoms change.<BR>Thanks!

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I replaced the Champion plugs with some NGK plugs and Whammo! The engine fired right up! That's the last time I use champion plugs!<P>Thanks for all your help!

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Guest De Soto Frank

Two thoughts:<P>First: how are the points? I recently had great difficulty with my 1972 Chevy truck (Six cyl; 250 cid) "missing" on # 1 cyl only; new plugs didn't help, tried new wires, that didn't help, seemed as though there was no fire from #1 tower on the distributor cap, so new cap & rotor; no better ! mad.gif" border="0 <BR>Finally (a couple days later) I thought that I might as well check the points (which I assumed would be OK, since I had put them in last autumn, and put less than 500 miles on 'em), and I discovered that the points were so closely gapped that I couldn't get even a .005" feeler in between (they should be around .018" !); so while the engine would still start and run, it didn't run very well!<BR>I filed the points and re-gapped them and the result is just short of miraculous!<BR>So, if you haven't "gone there", look at your points.<P>2) Spark plugs: I've been using Autolites in my '41 De Soto for about 5 years now (same plugs, 10,000 miles) with good results- sorry, don't know the number as I sit here.<P>Some more thoughts- the fact that you "get no response" even on starting fluid (which can be a helpful diagnostic tool, if used carefully) makes me think that you have a total igition failure somewhere- perhaps the switch or the coil or some of the wiring along the way.<BR>Does your Dodge have the anti-tamper coil with the armored conduit from the switch to the coil?<BR>An ignition switch "on its way out" can have "intermittent" performance.<BR>Also check the condition of the little jumper wire inside the distributor- if the insulation chafes and that wire grounds, that can kill your spark too(that wire gets "flexed" as the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate).<P>I'll probably jinx my car here, but my un-restored '41 De Soto literally sits for weeks at a time, undisturbed, and other than the additional cranking required to awaken "Sleeping Beauty" from a long nap, she's always started-up inside of two minutes or however long it takes to get gas back up to the carb.)<BR>If everything's "right", I've not had "starting problems" with my flathead MoPars.<P>Good luck- be methodical in your search; I'll bet it's something simple (like my points!).

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