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White Lead/Red Lead


Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)

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Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)

Is prussian blue the same as "lay out fluid"? I tried the layout fluid, but am having a real hard time getting it to wear off the gear teeth. I can't get a good pattern with it. Will the prussian blue wear off better?<P>I tried white lithium grease too, but it smears real bad and I can't see a good pattern with it either.

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MODEL A HAL:<BR><B>Where can I find white lead or red lead to use to check gear tooth contact pattern?<P></B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>I am a heavy-duty mechanic by trade, and have never found bluing or grease to work very well for setting tooth contact. What does work well however, is the white spray developer from a crack check kit. With this kit you spray a runny dye onto the part, then clean it off. You then spray the developer on, and any red dye in any fine cracks will blead through and show up in the white developer. I find that just spraying the developer onto the crown gear and letting it dry, it works better than anything else I have tried. If it works well on a Caterpillar 980 I'm sure it will work on a Model "A".

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No.prussian blue and lay-out fluid are not the same.Lay out fluid is an alchol based paint,which dries quickly and is used to scribe a layout on metal in the machine shop trade.Prussian blue is a non-drying grease-like substance which is used to show high spots or contact paterns when setting gear mesh, or when fitting main or rod bearings on the old poured babbit type bearings

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Historically, up to 20 years ago I know, white lead was used to seal the glass in the brass porthole frames in ships. Hal, since you live in a port city you might fimd some at an older shipyard. ~~ Howard

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Hal,<BR>Found this while reading Hot Rod Magazine. Thought it might be of use for you.<BR><span style="font-style: italic"> <BR>Tip 10: When setting up ring and pinions, you?ll often hear the term "balanced pattern." What does it mean? According to Peter Wille, it?s when the "wipe" of the pinion gear against the ring gear is equal on both sides of the ring gear tooth. Having a balanced pattern simply means improved gear life, but a side benefit is less noise. In addition, a proper pattern will look like a relatively long, smooth oval, and it should slightly favor the toe or the inside of the ring gear. Why should the pattern favor the toe side of the ring gear? In a typical hi-po situation, the pattern will "stretch" under loads (which can be quite high, especially if there is some power under the hood and some hook at the back end of the car). In essence, this pattern reaches from one end of the gear tooth to the other (from the toe to the heel). If the pattern favored the "heel" or the outside portion of the ring gear, then there?s a good chance that the "pattern" or true contact area woulds go right off the end of the ring gear. By the way, a pattern that favors the toe or inside of the gear tooth will be somewhat noisier than a heel pattern, but in this case that is a small price to pay for reliability. </span> <P>Bill<BR>

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Guest Hal Davis (MODEL A HAL)

Thanks, Bill. I am doing this against the advice of several folks. I am determined not to let this thing kick my butt. This info definitely sheds some light on the situation.<P>By the way, NO BLOWER! I'll let the sheet metal cutting, Chevy engine Ford guys do that.

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Hal,<BR>You are a braver man then I. Mine went to a rear end shop for my Buick.<P>I know you wont put a blower on it. Just messing with Novaman.<P>I saw a strange sight today. I went to look at a 31 model A. Thought it had a Chevy motor in it cause it was listed as A/C.<BR>Turns out they had rigged an alternator and a compressor on to a rebuilt stock A engine. Talk about a stupid looking engine compartment. They hadn't even done a decent job. My friend and I looked under the hood and walked away. Some people can ruin a good car.<P>Good luck with yours.<P>Bill

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