jay 1966 Posted November 15, 2014 Share Posted November 15, 2014 Was wondering if it might be easier to move distributor for setting point any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I ALWAYS remove the distributor to install/set the points, and especially when you have to synchronize the two sets of cylinders. Also gives you a chance to evaluate the overall condition, lubricate the centrifugal advance mechanism, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 I always remove the distributor, myself, for similar reasons. Also, well over 20 years ago I started turning the engine to point the rotor at 90 degrees with the firewall EVERY time I pulled a distributor. Then there is no doubt how it installs. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay 1966 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thank you for the info working blindly underneath the engine bay didn't seem to be the easy way. With some head scratching I actually figured out what the issue was. While driving the car the other day half the motor died only running on six cylinders. Figured a condenser or coil died. Replace condensers no change. Quick assessment of points adjustment seemed okay. Now was thinking coil bad. Check bad coil spark seemed week. Further poking around remove top of coil reconnected wire problem went way. Removed rubber insulator from top of cap problem seems to be gone. Are these coil covers available new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander160 Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Yes they are, a CCCA "project" found in the classifieds of the nat'l newsletter. FWIW, I always set the points in the car/engine. Using the balancer, #1 and #6 are marked. Bring it to the compression stroke of #1 1st and set it at 8deg BTDC while taking up the backlash in the rotor (yes a helper is best to accomplish this). Go to #6 and do the same for the other set of points. Once fully warmed up you need to adjust the mixture scews until any and all blubbering sounds are gone from the tail pipe. You may have to raise and lower the RPMs a few times to get it right on. The final test, take a nickel and balance it on edge at the automatic choke mounting point...while it's running (!). Yes, it will stand there for quite a while with only the air from the fan that might knock it over. Deeper problems may exist at higher speeds if it's old and cranky, and at that point I'd recommend removing, otherwise, enjoy. One of the smoothest and most silent engines of the classic era. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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