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Jayspartanburg's 89 TC Maserati project log/ build thread


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I recommend a thin coating of the red RTV for sealing those pesky hard to seal air leaks. It's stronger, bonds better and whether you build up with tape or shrink wrap, it will help to keep it where you put it.

 

As for welding on a charged strut I don't care what the forums say, that bead on the strut is not a safe place to weld, it's just the safest place to weld, if you're a good welder.

I just might try RTV again once i get the gap closed up a lil. I agree with it being the safest. That's what I meant to type, I must've been real tired that night, I just had a baby a week and a half ago so I'm not getting much sleep

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have 2 wraps of heat shrink on there and I'm feeling good about it. The hole on the lower bag bracket that slides over the strut is 52mm and the o-ring has a 50mm ID. The strut body was 50mm but with the double wrap it's just a shade over 51mm. It seems like it'll work. I'll get one side on tomorrow once it gets warm enough to get the snow and ice off of the TC, and if it works I'll get the other side done. If it doesn't work then I'll add one more layer and take it from there.  B)  B)

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The center picture is 90psi?

 

BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.

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The center picture is 90psi?

 

BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.

Yeah, that's 90psi. As far as psi/height, you normally want to set it up that way but not nec. at 80psi. There's a bunch off different factors. I based mine off of not wanting to die in case of failure!lol. I have it set so at 0psi, the oil pan is about 3/4 or so off of the ground. From what I've read most are happ between 40-75 up front and 25-50 out back. I'm going to getting the car road proven and find the optimal air pressure and base the back off of how the front feels. The back will most likely have some sort of bump stop so the carr doesn't bottom out and have a ride height thats even with the front. Also with only having gr's struts I probably would never ride as high as 90psi

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Also should add when doing a bag over strut as I did, the actual strut choice is very important. You want to match the measurements to the bags full and empty heights so you can get the car where u want it when it's aired out, and so you have the full range of the shock. I'm hoping that the right ride height ( by air air pressure) is right in the middle of the shocks travel. 

 

A smaller bag would take more PSI to lift the same height then a larger bag. I have 2500 bags. Going to most likely run the same size in the back.

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)
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For having nothing more than dirt for a driveway and a shade tree for a roof, you do some pretty impressive work.

 

I know from the pics earlier up in this post you already have the stuff, but I am curious as for the air pressures you are looking to use, did you consider salvaging the air ride system from one of the big old GM land yachts or a Lincoln?

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I thought about using factory bags for the rears, but with the price of new aftermarket bags and the fact the they're new I decided against it. 

 

ps the air management for the factory cars was never an option cause they all use small airlines plus they come with a lot of plastic parts.

I didn't want paddle valves so i decided that i wanted elec valves.

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)
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50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL

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  • 1 month later...
3 hours ago, Digger914 said:

If this vid is real time, watching your car rise and fall explains the industrial strength air ride components, did it improve the handling?

 

The year before the state built a new road through the shop, we custom turbo'd up an old BMW. We did the conversion and the intercooler came from redpepperracing. They can make you one big enough to do the job and built to fit in space available.

Thanks for the info, I've never considered that. It's pretty much in real time, although after I converted the file format it may be a few frames off. I didn't realize that you anyone had commented on the video, so I deleted it and reposted it in my build thread. As far as handling, It hasn't been on the road since the swap. My goal has been at very minimum getting the front air ride working and car being to the point where I can start the tune. I'm getting close every time I pick up a tool tho. I'm going to copy and paste this in my build thread. JS

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On 2/22/2016 at 2:37 PM, Reaper1 said:

I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL

Care to share a pic of what they look like on your car? Most won't like the direction I'd like to go with my car so I'll leave that alone. lol

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I forgot to mention I have the sound deadner installed in the wheel well and the carpet back in place. I ran the air lines for the front inside the "rail" and into the trunk. I have all the wiring done except for the power/ground wires for the compressor. All the wiring for the valves and switch box are ran. Until I have the money to upgrade, I'll be running the small tank, but I'll be able to tee in the large tank combined with it via quick connect fittings for the cruise nights when I wanna do a lil more showing off. This weekend will be a big one (hopefully) as far as making progress. I need the little transmission grommet for the clutch cable that's in the pic below. That's the only thing that's stopping me from putting everything together. I have no idea where to get one so i'll put a wanted add in other forums..

IMG_20160326_165430.jpg

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)
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  • 4 weeks later...

Okay, so I have the clutch cable, pedal etc etc all done. I just have to replace the fuel lines under the hood and throw a battery in and it should start right up. I still have some more stuff to do to it, but I figured moving it in the yard should be more than enough motivation to finally get it back on the road. After I adjust the shifter cables, I'll install the walbro 255, big injectors and AFPR. Sucks when you lose motivation while working by yourself, but the small victories keep me pushing forward. Sometime in between all that I'll rig up the gauge panel to hold another gauge or 2, and get the rest of the interior all together. SDAC or bust!! I still have to wire the air compressor to the amp batt cable and connect the power and the ground for the switch box in the car. All the other airride wiring/hoses are all done. 

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I got it started but I think the clutch is stuck to the flywheel again. It happened last time I let that combo sit. Going to see if I can break it lose tomorrow and go ahead and get the air compressor wired up. Have something to do tomorrow and we just popped open a bottle, so just are I wont get to do much. I probably wont update until I hit another "milestone"

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There's actually a thing about clutches being stuck to flywheels in the service manual! It says don't try to un-stick it in the car or serious damage can occur. I tend to believe it seeing the condition of the clutch I pulled off of my car because I *think* that's what happened to it. It chewed up the TOB, flywheel, and pressure plate pretty badly.

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On 5/17/2016 at 3:08 PM, Reaper1 said:

There's actually a thing about clutches being stuck to flywheels in the service manual! It says don't try to un-stick it in the car or serious damage can occur. I tend to believe it seeing the condition of the clutch I pulled off of my car because I *think* that's what happened to it. It chewed up the TOB, flywheel, and pressure plate pretty badly.

Well damn.. I drove it around the block and it broke free pretty easily. Actually a LOT easier than last time. Drove around hitting the brake and clutch did it. Last time I had to circle the block a few times, lol I will never forget that one. So far so good. I need to get a battery this weekend, and I've already started installing some of the interior pieces. The compressor I have is not going to be good enough for what I have going on, so I'm looking to see if I can do some bartering because I'm pretty broke and still trying to make it to SDAC.

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Keep in mind that the FSM is also referencing the 16V engine and the OEM organic clutch...which is slightly different than typical TM organic clutches...it's not only larger in diameter overall (as well as the input shaft), but the actual disc is slightly flexible whereas I don't remember that about any of the TM clutches I've ever messed with.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/31/2016 at 8:23 PM, Reaper1 said:

50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast.

I guess I was being optimistic with the air pressure I was wanting to run before, but I think this is more of what I was expecting when I first put the bags together. the below pics are 0psi and 90-100. I was going to run NSRT struts but ended up picking up 1G neon struts at the JY on sale, and looks wise I'm happy with the results. The other one may take me 2 hours now that I have it figured out. Good thing is, I used the strut bags that came with the kit I bought off of CL for $200, and they fit the new struts perfect other than having to cut and grind the spring perch, so I have no more heat shrink holding air in :)

 

 

13313888_1193396250700820_67580364_o.jpg

13313940_1193395544034224_2139504439_o.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Whoop whoop! I installed my other downpipe with the wideband bund welded in already and installed my gauge plate from my Daytona ( I couldn't find the one I made for the TC, but it's here somewhere..) I also cut 1.5 coils from the rear springs to level things out a bit. I took a pic of the Daytona gauge set up and I'll post it once my phone charges up a lil bit. I tried replacing the rear pads since the day was going so good yesterday and had zero luck. I cannot get the caliper to go in enough for me to slide the caliper back on. I loosened the lil allen screw, but still no luck. The car is currently sitting on a jack stand. GRRR. I had a line on some wheels and the seller vanished from the world, so as it is, I have no major updates. Hmm, I forgot to mention that I installed my AFPR, and pieced together some I/C pipes. :) I'm going to see if there is someone local that will trade me a same side intercooler for the opposite end one that I had in the Daytona. Hopefully this winter I'll have the turbo and head ready to make some good power.  More to come..

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)
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Annnndddd, I'm back. Dinner was great! So, I remembered that the Daytona has/had good rotors so I swapped the pads and rotor for the LR wheel. The TC needed a new rotor, so I guess I lucked up. Below are the pics of the temporary gauge setup, and a bonus pic of my 2003 CL type S radio. I'll put a pic of the manifold when I get a chance.

IMG_20160613_000226.jpg

IMG_20160611_010128.jpg

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So I drove the car a few days and it drives surprisingly well. I ended up connecting the wastegate actuator vac line to the vac block so I'm currently 5lbs. At 10lbs it felt pretty good and overall there just lil bugs I need to work out. I'm working on a exhaust swingvalve to mate a z31 turbo (60/63 garrett) to the factory downpipe, and when that goes in so will the new intake manifold. I also pressure washed the engine bay. I'm going to be working on the turbo and air ride mounting, as well as the stereo install and fixing all the small bugs on the car. Pics of the IM coming soon. Jay

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yes, BMF #32. I bought the knock sensor mount, it's sitting in a bag in the shed. I'm dd it around 60-70. I'll take some more pics soon. It rides pretty good. Rob rode in it a couple of weeks ago, he said he liked it also. Nice and smooth with the lower air pressure. With the pressure a Lil higher it feels a lot firmer and that's where you can start to tell that better struts would be nice. Other than hitting big dips and potholes at highway speeds, I'm  really happy with it. With it around 80 it rides plenty firm (still very comfortable). I haven't done any "crazy" driving with it yet, but it does feel responsive and smooth to the levels I've tested it too so far. I have a Nissan z31 60/63 turbo I'm thinking of putting on, so in between that and putting the music back together + the heat I haven't done much lately.

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  • 2 months later...

Nothing new to post as it's just now starting to cool down out here. Going to start working on her again real soon. I sold the Nissan turbo's that I bought (for a profit) so I need to come up with something there, although I might just install all the go fast parts with a stock turbo. Being that I have bags so struts already have to get "cut up" to be used, I'm thinking of finding some better struts. Those Neon struts just aren't cutting it. Trans and engine feel good, no complaints there either. I did try to fill it with Freon and that only lasted 2-3 days, so I'm going to go into one of these places that does free AC checks to get that looked at. Other than that, I've been driving it a few days a week and have had no issues. 

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

I've been neglecting the thread so I guess it's time for updates? I replaced the tore up ginger top for a used clean black top. I also shampooed the interior carpet. I had a small leak in one of the bags so I replaced the bag with a spare. I pulled off the bags and went back to springs for the time being while I get a bunch of other stuff worked out. I got a set of wheels for it for 125 and spent 90 bucks on a couple of tires. They're only temporary, I plan on going back to black wheels.. Ok, I guess we're all caught up to last weekend..

 

So I flushed the heater core and coolant system (separately) last week. I had to bleed it a few times before I got the heat where I wanted it. It felt very toasty at idle, so I was feeling good about a lil test drive. At some point during that test drive,the turbo seals went out. I have one last spare Volvo CHRA with almost no shaft play, so imma try to see if I can get that in today. I'm going to go ahead and pull the head off and replace the ported exhaust manifold for a stocker.

 

I think it's wise to go ahead and switch it over to a standard t3 turbine bolt pattern. I have someone that's thinking about letting me run their ported 655 head, so it'll probably be a good idea to to have everything mocked up on a stand, and just plan on dropping in all of my parts at once sometime soon. Going to add a pic or 2 in a sec. I don't have any on my laptop, but I have a couple on my phone

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On 12/9/2016 at 8:58 AM, jayspartanburg said:

I've been neglecting the thread so I guess it's time for updates? I replaced the tore up ginger top for a used clean black top. I also shampooed the interior carpet. I had a small leak in one of the bags so I replaced the bag with a spare. I pulled off the bags and went back to springs for the time being while I get a bunch of other stuff worked out. I got a set of wheels for it for 125 and spent 90 bucks on a couple of tires. They're only temporary, I plan on going back to black wheels.. Ok, I guess we're all caught up to last weekend..

 

So I flushed the heater core and coolant system (separately) last week. I had to bleed it a few times before I got the heat where I wanted it. It felt very toasty at idle, so I was feeling good about a lil test drive. At some point during that test drive,the turbo seals went out. I have one last spare Volvo CHRA with almost no shaft play, so imma try to see if I can get that in today. I'm going to go ahead and pull the head off and replace the ported exhaust manifold for a stocker.

 

I think it's wise to go ahead and switch it over to a standard t3 turbine bolt pattern. I have someone that's thinking about letting me run their ported 655 head, so it'll probably be a good idea to to have everything mocked up on a stand, and just plan on dropping in all of my parts at once sometime soon. Going to add a pic or 2 in a sec. I don't have any on my laptop, but I have a couple on my phone

How badly did the turbo seals fail?

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