jayspartanburg Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 I recommend a thin coating of the red RTV for sealing those pesky hard to seal air leaks. It's stronger, bonds better and whether you build up with tape or shrink wrap, it will help to keep it where you put it. As for welding on a charged strut I don't care what the forums say, that bead on the strut is not a safe place to weld, it's just the safest place to weld, if you're a good welder.I just might try RTV again once i get the gap closed up a lil. I agree with it being the safest. That's what I meant to type, I must've been real tired that night, I just had a baby a week and a half ago so I'm not getting much sleep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 I have 2 wraps of heat shrink on there and I'm feeling good about it. The hole on the lower bag bracket that slides over the strut is 52mm and the o-ring has a 50mm ID. The strut body was 50mm but with the double wrap it's just a shade over 51mm. It seems like it'll work. I'll get one side on tomorrow once it gets warm enough to get the snow and ice off of the TC, and if it works I'll get the other side done. If it doesn't work then I'll add one more layer and take it from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 Yeah!!!!!!. That's the car @ 90 lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 The center picture is 90psi? BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 The center picture is 90psi? BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.Yeah, that's 90psi. As far as psi/height, you normally want to set it up that way but not nec. at 80psi. There's a bunch off different factors. I based mine off of not wanting to die in case of failure!lol. I have it set so at 0psi, the oil pan is about 3/4 or so off of the ground. From what I've read most are happ between 40-75 up front and 25-50 out back. I'm going to getting the car road proven and find the optimal air pressure and base the back off of how the front feels. The back will most likely have some sort of bump stop so the carr doesn't bottom out and have a ride height thats even with the front. Also with only having gr's struts I probably would never ride as high as 90psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Also should add when doing a bag over strut as I did, the actual strut choice is very important. You want to match the measurements to the bags full and empty heights so you can get the car where u want it when it's aired out, and so you have the full range of the shock. I'm hoping that the right ride height ( by air air pressure) is right in the middle of the shocks travel. A smaller bag would take more PSI to lift the same height then a larger bag. I have 2500 bags. Going to most likely run the same size in the back. Edited January 26, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digger914 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 For having nothing more than dirt for a driveway and a shade tree for a roof, you do some pretty impressive work. I know from the pics earlier up in this post you already have the stuff, but I am curious as for the air pressures you are looking to use, did you consider salvaging the air ride system from one of the big old GM land yachts or a Lincoln? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) I thought about using factory bags for the rears, but with the price of new aftermarket bags and the fact the they're new I decided against it. ps the air management for the factory cars was never an option cause they all use small airlines plus they come with a lot of plastic parts.I didn't want paddle valves so i decided that i wanted elec valves. Edited January 27, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted January 27, 2016 Author Share Posted January 27, 2016 20psi 30psi 40psi 50psi 60psi 70psi 80psi 90psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Hopefully I'll find the time to work on it soon. Might have to run neon struts and some hard bumpstop if the air pressure/ height become an issue. Edited February 3, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 That's just the front left corner.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 13, 2016 Author Share Posted April 13, 2016 3 hours ago, Digger914 said: If this vid is real time, watching your car rise and fall explains the industrial strength air ride components, did it improve the handling? The year before the state built a new road through the shop, we custom turbo'd up an old BMW. We did the conversion and the intercooler came from redpepperracing. They can make you one big enough to do the job and built to fit in space available. Thanks for the info, I've never considered that. It's pretty much in real time, although after I converted the file format it may be a few frames off. I didn't realize that you anyone had commented on the video, so I deleted it and reposted it in my build thread. As far as handling, It hasn't been on the road since the swap. My goal has been at very minimum getting the front air ride working and car being to the point where I can start the tune. I'm getting close every time I pick up a tool tho. I'm going to copy and paste this in my build thread. JS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 14, 2016 Author Share Posted April 14, 2016 On 2/22/2016 at 2:37 PM, Reaper1 said: I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL Care to share a pic of what they look like on your car? Most won't like the direction I'd like to go with my car so I'll leave that alone. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted April 14, 2016 Share Posted April 14, 2016 Let's see if this works... If it does, they are kinda dirty in the picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 5 hours ago, Reaper1 said: Let's see if this works... If it does, they are kinda dirty in the picture. They do Look pretty good on there. I've been considering 18x7.5 or 18x8 mesh wheels with some sort of white wall tire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 I think the "black chrome" versions would look better, but I don't think that option is available in a configuration that will fit. I have also considered the NT01 wheels, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share Posted April 15, 2016 (edited) I forgot to mention I have the sound deadner installed in the wheel well and the carpet back in place. I ran the air lines for the front inside the "rail" and into the trunk. I have all the wiring done except for the power/ground wires for the compressor. All the wiring for the valves and switch box are ran. Until I have the money to upgrade, I'll be running the small tank, but I'll be able to tee in the large tank combined with it via quick connect fittings for the cruise nights when I wanna do a lil more showing off. This weekend will be a big one (hopefully) as far as making progress. I need the little transmission grommet for the clutch cable that's in the pic below. That's the only thing that's stopping me from putting everything together. I have no idea where to get one so i'll put a wanted add in other forums.. Edited April 15, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted April 15, 2016 Share Posted April 15, 2016 See if Johnny makes them. I know he makes the rubber part of the retainer out of poly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted May 14, 2016 Author Share Posted May 14, 2016 Okay, so I have the clutch cable, pedal etc etc all done. I just have to replace the fuel lines under the hood and throw a battery in and it should start right up. I still have some more stuff to do to it, but I figured moving it in the yard should be more than enough motivation to finally get it back on the road. After I adjust the shifter cables, I'll install the walbro 255, big injectors and AFPR. Sucks when you lose motivation while working by yourself, but the small victories keep me pushing forward. Sometime in between all that I'll rig up the gauge panel to hold another gauge or 2, and get the rest of the interior all together. SDAC or bust!! I still have to wire the air compressor to the amp batt cable and connect the power and the ground for the switch box in the car. All the other airride wiring/hoses are all done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted May 15, 2016 Author Share Posted May 15, 2016 I got it started but I think the clutch is stuck to the flywheel again. It happened last time I let that combo sit. Going to see if I can break it lose tomorrow and go ahead and get the air compressor wired up. Have something to do tomorrow and we just popped open a bottle, so just are I wont get to do much. I probably wont update until I hit another "milestone" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 There's actually a thing about clutches being stuck to flywheels in the service manual! It says don't try to un-stick it in the car or serious damage can occur. I tend to believe it seeing the condition of the clutch I pulled off of my car because I *think* that's what happened to it. It chewed up the TOB, flywheel, and pressure plate pretty badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted May 19, 2016 Author Share Posted May 19, 2016 On 5/17/2016 at 3:08 PM, Reaper1 said: There's actually a thing about clutches being stuck to flywheels in the service manual! It says don't try to un-stick it in the car or serious damage can occur. I tend to believe it seeing the condition of the clutch I pulled off of my car because I *think* that's what happened to it. It chewed up the TOB, flywheel, and pressure plate pretty badly. Well damn.. I drove it around the block and it broke free pretty easily. Actually a LOT easier than last time. Drove around hitting the brake and clutch did it. Last time I had to circle the block a few times, lol I will never forget that one. So far so good. I need to get a battery this weekend, and I've already started installing some of the interior pieces. The compressor I have is not going to be good enough for what I have going on, so I'm looking to see if I can do some bartering because I'm pretty broke and still trying to make it to SDAC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Keep in mind that the FSM is also referencing the 16V engine and the OEM organic clutch...which is slightly different than typical TM organic clutches...it's not only larger in diameter overall (as well as the input shaft), but the actual disc is slightly flexible whereas I don't remember that about any of the TM clutches I've ever messed with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted May 31, 2016 Author Share Posted May 31, 2016 On 1/31/2016 at 8:23 PM, Reaper1 said: 50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast. I guess I was being optimistic with the air pressure I was wanting to run before, but I think this is more of what I was expecting when I first put the bags together. the below pics are 0psi and 90-100. I was going to run NSRT struts but ended up picking up 1G neon struts at the JY on sale, and looks wise I'm happy with the results. The other one may take me 2 hours now that I have it figured out. Good thing is, I used the strut bags that came with the kit I bought off of CL for $200, and they fit the new struts perfect other than having to cut and grind the spring perch, so I have no more heat shrink holding air in . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) Whoop whoop! I installed my other downpipe with the wideband bund welded in already and installed my gauge plate from my Daytona ( I couldn't find the one I made for the TC, but it's here somewhere..) I also cut 1.5 coils from the rear springs to level things out a bit. I took a pic of the Daytona gauge set up and I'll post it once my phone charges up a lil bit. I tried replacing the rear pads since the day was going so good yesterday and had zero luck. I cannot get the caliper to go in enough for me to slide the caliper back on. I loosened the lil allen screw, but still no luck. The car is currently sitting on a jack stand. GRRR. I had a line on some wheels and the seller vanished from the world, so as it is, I have no major updates. Hmm, I forgot to mention that I installed my AFPR, and pieced together some I/C pipes. I'm going to see if there is someone local that will trade me a same side intercooler for the opposite end one that I had in the Daytona. Hopefully this winter I'll have the turbo and head ready to make some good power. More to come.. Edited June 14, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted June 14, 2016 Author Share Posted June 14, 2016 Annnndddd, I'm back. Dinner was great! So, I remembered that the Daytona has/had good rotors so I swapped the pads and rotor for the LR wheel. The TC needed a new rotor, so I guess I lucked up. Below are the pics of the temporary gauge setup, and a bonus pic of my 2003 CL type S radio. I'll put a pic of the manifold when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted June 21, 2016 Author Share Posted June 21, 2016 So I drove the car a few days and it drives surprisingly well. I ended up connecting the wastegate actuator vac line to the vac block so I'm currently 5lbs. At 10lbs it felt pretty good and overall there just lil bugs I need to work out. I'm working on a exhaust swingvalve to mate a z31 turbo (60/63 garrett) to the factory downpipe, and when that goes in so will the new intake manifold. I also pressure washed the engine bay. I'm going to be working on the turbo and air ride mounting, as well as the stereo install and fixing all the small bugs on the car. Pics of the IM coming soon. Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted June 22, 2016 Author Share Posted June 22, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 That's the BMF intake isn't it? You figure out what you are going to do about the knock sensor or did you get the knock sensor adapter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 (edited) Oh, what air pressure are you riding around at? Got a picture of how it sits as a DD? Last thing, how is the ride and handling? Edited July 10, 2016 by Reaper1 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 Yes, BMF #32. I bought the knock sensor mount, it's sitting in a bag in the shed. I'm dd it around 60-70. I'll take some more pics soon. It rides pretty good. Rob rode in it a couple of weeks ago, he said he liked it also. Nice and smooth with the lower air pressure. With the pressure a Lil higher it feels a lot firmer and that's where you can start to tell that better struts would be nice. Other than hitting big dips and potholes at highway speeds, I'm really happy with it. With it around 80 it rides plenty firm (still very comfortable). I haven't done any "crazy" driving with it yet, but it does feel responsive and smooth to the levels I've tested it too so far. I have a Nissan z31 60/63 turbo I'm thinking of putting on, so in between that and putting the music back together + the heat I haven't done much lately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Nothing new to post as it's just now starting to cool down out here. Going to start working on her again real soon. I sold the Nissan turbo's that I bought (for a profit) so I need to come up with something there, although I might just install all the go fast parts with a stock turbo. Being that I have bags so struts already have to get "cut up" to be used, I'm thinking of finding some better struts. Those Neon struts just aren't cutting it. Trans and engine feel good, no complaints there either. I did try to fill it with Freon and that only lasted 2-3 days, so I'm going to go into one of these places that does free AC checks to get that looked at. Other than that, I've been driving it a few days a week and have had no issues. Edited September 30, 2016 by jayspartanburg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share Posted December 9, 2016 I've been neglecting the thread so I guess it's time for updates? I replaced the tore up ginger top for a used clean black top. I also shampooed the interior carpet. I had a small leak in one of the bags so I replaced the bag with a spare. I pulled off the bags and went back to springs for the time being while I get a bunch of other stuff worked out. I got a set of wheels for it for 125 and spent 90 bucks on a couple of tires. They're only temporary, I plan on going back to black wheels.. Ok, I guess we're all caught up to last weekend.. So I flushed the heater core and coolant system (separately) last week. I had to bleed it a few times before I got the heat where I wanted it. It felt very toasty at idle, so I was feeling good about a lil test drive. At some point during that test drive,the turbo seals went out. I have one last spare Volvo CHRA with almost no shaft play, so imma try to see if I can get that in today. I'm going to go ahead and pull the head off and replace the ported exhaust manifold for a stocker. I think it's wise to go ahead and switch it over to a standard t3 turbine bolt pattern. I have someone that's thinking about letting me run their ported 655 head, so it'll probably be a good idea to to have everything mocked up on a stand, and just plan on dropping in all of my parts at once sometime soon. Going to add a pic or 2 in a sec. I don't have any on my laptop, but I have a couple on my phone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share Posted December 9, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Those wheels look better than I would have thought. That top looks super nice as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EmmettTC Posted December 15, 2016 Share Posted December 15, 2016 On 12/9/2016 at 8:58 AM, jayspartanburg said: I've been neglecting the thread so I guess it's time for updates? I replaced the tore up ginger top for a used clean black top. I also shampooed the interior carpet. I had a small leak in one of the bags so I replaced the bag with a spare. I pulled off the bags and went back to springs for the time being while I get a bunch of other stuff worked out. I got a set of wheels for it for 125 and spent 90 bucks on a couple of tires. They're only temporary, I plan on going back to black wheels.. Ok, I guess we're all caught up to last weekend.. So I flushed the heater core and coolant system (separately) last week. I had to bleed it a few times before I got the heat where I wanted it. It felt very toasty at idle, so I was feeling good about a lil test drive. At some point during that test drive,the turbo seals went out. I have one last spare Volvo CHRA with almost no shaft play, so imma try to see if I can get that in today. I'm going to go ahead and pull the head off and replace the ported exhaust manifold for a stocker. I think it's wise to go ahead and switch it over to a standard t3 turbine bolt pattern. I have someone that's thinking about letting me run their ported 655 head, so it'll probably be a good idea to to have everything mocked up on a stand, and just plan on dropping in all of my parts at once sometime soon. Going to add a pic or 2 in a sec. I don't have any on my laptop, but I have a couple on my phone How badly did the turbo seals fail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayspartanburg Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 It was smoking pretty bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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