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jayspartanburg

Jayspartanburg's 89 TC Maserati project log/ build thread

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Ok quick update. I haven't done anything to the car. lol. The strut body is 50mm and the opening on the lower bag mount is 52mm. I could wrap elec tape around the strut and it lessens the air leakage but if I wrap more tape to close the gap, the bag mount won't slide over w/o sliding the tape down. I tried to make a sleeve out of exhaust tubing and planned on welding it to the bead where the lower spring perch was but, I'm trying something different that would be easier to work with in the event that I have to change the struts. I've order some hear shrink that will go over the strut body to close the gap. If anyone else comes up with anything else that would possibly work please do share. If that doesn't work I'll most likely just make a custom lower mount. Forgot to add that the heat shrink wont be in stock until 1/13 and then I have to wait for it to ship to me, but I'll take advantage of that time to get the car running. I'm dedicated on getting this to work to the point that I'm not going to drive the car until I have the airride working or I give up on it. 

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)

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If you smear the heat shrink with RTV before you set the air bag it will seal and be removable if need be. Have you considered using aluminum tape to build up the inner core of the air bag and smearing the strut with RTV, it will be easier to control sizing and make cleanup for reuse easier.

 

I met a big old Indian a few years back who was so good with a stinger that he could have welded the crack of dawn if he'd wanted to. If you're that good with a stinger, OK; if not, I strongly recommend against welding on a charged gas strut.

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If you smear the heat shrink with RTV before you set the air bag it will seal and be removable if need be. Have you considered using aluminum tape to build up the inner core of the air bag and smearing the strut with RTV, it will be easier to control sizing and make cleanup for reuse easier.

 

I met a big old Indian a few years back who was so good with a stinger that he could have welded the crack of dawn if he'd wanted to. If you're that good with a stinger, OK; if not, I strongly recommend against welding on a charged gas strut.

I haven't thought of the alum tape, but I will most definitely keep that in mind. I ordered 16 ft of heat shrink so I'll have plenty. My first attempt last year was actually with rtv and it only lasted about 10 seconds. I thought about using liquid steel but dismissed the thought after a while(cant even remember why I decided against it) From what I've read on forums, the only safe place to weld would be on that bead. I was going to work around if I was to weld to avoid burning thru. I think its the only place thick enough not to weld thru. The inner diameter of the bags o-rings are 50mm, so I'm hoping 1 (or 2 max) layers of heat shrink will do the job

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Hey, I remember why I decided not to use the liquid steel. I figured I'd have to roughen up the strut to get it to stick right and was worried about damaging the strut if it didn't work. 

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I recommend a thin coating of the red RTV for sealing those pesky hard to seal air leaks. It's stronger, bonds better and whether you build up with tape or shrink wrap, it will help to keep it where you put it.

 

As for welding on a charged strut I don't care what the forums say, that bead on the strut is not a safe place to weld, it's just the safest place to weld, if you're a good welder.

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I recommend a thin coating of the red RTV for sealing those pesky hard to seal air leaks. It's stronger, bonds better and whether you build up with tape or shrink wrap, it will help to keep it where you put it.

 

As for welding on a charged strut I don't care what the forums say, that bead on the strut is not a safe place to weld, it's just the safest place to weld, if you're a good welder.

I just might try RTV again once i get the gap closed up a lil. I agree with it being the safest. That's what I meant to type, I must've been real tired that night, I just had a baby a week and a half ago so I'm not getting much sleep

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I have 2 wraps of heat shrink on there and I'm feeling good about it. The hole on the lower bag bracket that slides over the strut is 52mm and the o-ring has a 50mm ID. The strut body was 50mm but with the double wrap it's just a shade over 51mm. It seems like it'll work. I'll get one side on tomorrow once it gets warm enough to get the snow and ice off of the TC, and if it works I'll get the other side done. If it doesn't work then I'll add one more layer and take it from there.  B)  B)

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The center picture is 90psi?

 

BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.

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The center picture is 90psi?

 

BTW, some reading I was doing on airbag installations said that you want to basically get the vehicle to sit the way you want it to with "x-amount" of pressure (I want to say it was something like 80psi), then adjust the height of the bag mount so it sits where you want at that nominal pressure. That's how you prevent a screwy ride (too wallowy or harsh depending) apparently.

Yeah, that's 90psi. As far as psi/height, you normally want to set it up that way but not nec. at 80psi. There's a bunch off different factors. I based mine off of not wanting to die in case of failure!lol. I have it set so at 0psi, the oil pan is about 3/4 or so off of the ground. From what I've read most are happ between 40-75 up front and 25-50 out back. I'm going to getting the car road proven and find the optimal air pressure and base the back off of how the front feels. The back will most likely have some sort of bump stop so the carr doesn't bottom out and have a ride height thats even with the front. Also with only having gr's struts I probably would never ride as high as 90psi

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Also should add when doing a bag over strut as I did, the actual strut choice is very important. You want to match the measurements to the bags full and empty heights so you can get the car where u want it when it's aired out, and so you have the full range of the shock. I'm hoping that the right ride height ( by air air pressure) is right in the middle of the shocks travel. 

 

A smaller bag would take more PSI to lift the same height then a larger bag. I have 2500 bags. Going to most likely run the same size in the back.

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)

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For having nothing more than dirt for a driveway and a shade tree for a roof, you do some pretty impressive work.

 

I know from the pics earlier up in this post you already have the stuff, but I am curious as for the air pressures you are looking to use, did you consider salvaging the air ride system from one of the big old GM land yachts or a Lincoln?

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I thought about using factory bags for the rears, but with the price of new aftermarket bags and the fact the they're new I decided against it. 

 

ps the air management for the factory cars was never an option cause they all use small airlines plus they come with a lot of plastic parts.

I didn't want paddle valves so i decided that i wanted elec valves.

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)

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50 looks about stock. I'd run it at 35 (my personal preference for ride height) if that proves to be enough spring rate. That's my concern. To be able to have the spring rate I want at the ride height I want because it *could* turn into a wallowy beast.

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I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL

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3 hours ago, Digger914 said:

If this vid is real time, watching your car rise and fall explains the industrial strength air ride components, did it improve the handling?

 

The year before the state built a new road through the shop, we custom turbo'd up an old BMW. We did the conversion and the intercooler came from redpepperracing. They can make you one big enough to do the job and built to fit in space available.

Thanks for the info, I've never considered that. It's pretty much in real time, although after I converted the file format it may be a few frames off. I didn't realize that you anyone had commented on the video, so I deleted it and reposted it in my build thread. As far as handling, It hasn't been on the road since the swap. My goal has been at very minimum getting the front air ride working and car being to the point where I can start the tune. I'm getting close every time I pick up a tool tho. I'm going to copy and paste this in my build thread. JS

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On 2/22/2016 at 2:37 PM, Reaper1 said:

I was looking at my car in the parking lot the other day while eating at Wendy's and with the RPF1's and the 225/50/16 tires it actually sits fairly nicely. I even thought to myself...maybe I don't need to lower it! Those wheels make the car look MEAN!! LOL

Care to share a pic of what they look like on your car? Most won't like the direction I'd like to go with my car so I'll leave that alone. lol

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Let's see if this works...

 

If it does, they are kinda dirty in the picture. 

20160229_165739.jpg

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5 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

Let's see if this works...

 

If it does, they are kinda dirty in the picture. 

20160229_165739.jpg

They do Look pretty good on there. I've been considering 18x7.5 or 18x8 mesh wheels with some sort of white wall tire

 

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I think the "black chrome" versions would look better, but I don't think that option is available in a configuration that will fit. I have also considered the NT01 wheels, too.

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I forgot to mention I have the sound deadner installed in the wheel well and the carpet back in place. I ran the air lines for the front inside the "rail" and into the trunk. I have all the wiring done except for the power/ground wires for the compressor. All the wiring for the valves and switch box are ran. Until I have the money to upgrade, I'll be running the small tank, but I'll be able to tee in the large tank combined with it via quick connect fittings for the cruise nights when I wanna do a lil more showing off. This weekend will be a big one (hopefully) as far as making progress. I need the little transmission grommet for the clutch cable that's in the pic below. That's the only thing that's stopping me from putting everything together. I have no idea where to get one so i'll put a wanted add in other forums..

IMG_20160326_165430.jpg

Edited by jayspartanburg (see edit history)

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