Guest erietim Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 while checking the points and wire connections in the distributor I noticed that the center post/shaft (part the rotor sits) on has rotational play. the shaft is not tilting just will rotate slightly forward or backward. I don't remember this in the cars of my youth, so believing this to be broke. what do I do to fix it? thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 There are 2 reasons for rotational play. One is, play in the gears between the camshaft and distributor, this should be minimal. The other is movement in the advance mechanism. This may be up to 20 or 30 degrees. Neither one is a problem as a rule.Side play indicates worn bearings and can make your timing and dwell erratic. Should be practically nil, noticable side play is a cause for concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JPArizona Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 while checking the points and wire connections in the distributor I noticed that the center post/shaft (part the rotor sits) on has rotational play. the shaft is not tilting just will rotate slightly forward or backward. I don't remember this in the cars of my youth, so believing this to be broke. what do I do to fix it? thank youRotational play (within reason) is normal. Merely lash between distributor and camshaft gears. Could also be slop in the advance. All should be fine. If it's not broken, don't fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest erietim Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 ok thanks just bought this and have much to do. so not having to do anything with the distributor is good news Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest carlnut50 Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) The distributor on this car is easy. At some point, you should remove it and tear it down for cleaning and lube. It has a tang on the shaft and will only go in two ways. Mark which way the rotor is pointing before removal and don't spin the engine over until you reinstall the distributor. Edited September 24, 2013 by carlnut50 spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 The distributor on this car is easy. At some point, you should remove it and tear it down for cleaning and lube. It has a tang on the shaft and will only go in two ways. Mark which way the rotor is pointing before removal and don't spin the engine over until you reinstall the distributor.+1 on this. Pop the cap, remove the wire that goes to the coil, remove the one screw that holds the base clamp and out it comes. It can only go back in two ways, so as carlnut50 noted, remember which way the rotor is pointing.I find the easiest way to get the points set accurately is on the work bench instead of leaning over the fender and trying to "bump" the engine to exactly the correct spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler49 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 Anyone find it nearly impossible to get the distributor pulled? I've got the vacuum line off, the cap off, and the lockdown plate bolt undone. I can pull the distributor back a couple inches, then it just wants to spin and won't budge any further. Shop manual gives no further explanation. I'm thinking my 49 Windsor's distributor is pretty similar.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Anyone find it nearly impossible to get the distributor pulled? I've got the vacuum line off, the cap off, and the lockdown plate bolt undone. I can pull the distributor back a couple inches, then it just wants to spin and won't budge any further. Shop manual gives no further explanation. I'm thinking my 49 Windsor's distributor is pretty similar....Any chance you have the longer 25" DeSoto, Chrysler or Canadian block engine in there? It's my understanding on those that there is a clearance issue between the shaft that drives the distributor and the counterweights on the crank and that the engine has to be set with a particular piston at top center. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler49 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Car has spent it's entire life in Iowa. Don't think it would have the Canadian block, but I can't tell you it doesn't with absolute certainly. I have the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 When new they are supposed to slide out. After years of service gum and varnish or sludge can build up on the bottom of the distributor where it is exposed inside the engine. This will prevent it from sliding out. I don't know what you can do about it, other than work it back and forth until it comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler49 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Yeah, that's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't perhaps something catching that I wasn't aware of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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