chrysler49

I did just have the generator tested. Voltage barely registered, so it looks as though it's the generator. Can a bad generator be fully rebuilt, or can you basically just replaces brushes and the bearing?

Recently my Windsor has basically stopped charging while driving. Regulator and generator brushes were replaced with new last year, and generator tested fine. Suddenly, the car will just barely start charging when increasing the RPMs, but as the meter just starts to move clockwise to show charging, I hear a faint click under the hood and it won't charge. Ran a jumper from the negative battery terminal to the ARM post on the generator, and get slight movements of the pulley, but nothing constant. With the car running, I can get 6.15 volts at the battery terminal of the voltage regulator, but nothing at the field and armature posts. This sounds like my generator dying out? I've polarized the regulator. Battery does have a bit of overflow puddled on top, so I'm wondering if the generator started overcharging and then died out.

Carb is original and the jets are correct. Car's mixture was fine before tearing into it earlier this summer, so I'm not going to bother worrying about jet sizes.

Took the carb back off and dismantled and Recleaned everything I could get to, leaving only the main vent tube as I dint have the tool to remove and install that. I cleaned and readjusted my choke and installed a new gasket. I also finally fixed the manifold heat valve spring and installed all new plugs. After all that, it took 2 miles for my plugs to be black and sooty and it continues to bog at 50-55 mph. Still can't kill the car if I turn the idle mixture all the way in while idling either. Could that main vent tube really be the cause of this? Place to get that tool is only open Mondays and Tuesdays...

Perfect. Thank you!

Anyone have a pic or more detailed instructions on reinstalling the manifold heat control valve on the passenger side of a Spitfire 6? Spring has been broken on mine for years I'm sure, and I just installed a new one. Not sure exactly how the counterweight in supposed to sit when in it's initial position in order to function properly.

This actually seems like a likely culprit. Offhand I can't say if it has the power valve diaphram, so I'll have to check it out later. Update: doesn't seem as though my particular carb has a "power valve" that I can see. Adjusting the mixture screw does nothing to change the idle of the car, but I've cleaned the hell out of the passage.

I did replace those wires. I should go ahead and double check they're functioning as they should

Don't know the exact model off hand. Carter BB. Original to car; rebuilt a year ago and ran just fine.

Gets to a certain rpm, whether 30 mph in low gear or 50-55 in high gear, and it won't go any faster. Thing chugs and has nothing left. Definitely tied in with the black sooty plugs and black exhaust. I cannot imagine my timing would be that far off after replacing ignition components that it runs great until higher rpms. Edit: did completely unhook the choke and the car now bogs down around 20-25 mph in low, and 45-50 mph in high. A bit lower in the rpm range than before.

Did just discover one bolt on my automatic choke is stripped and the rear is popped up a bit. Does this need to be solidly secured flat against the manifold to function properly?

Soaked filter in kerosene and it's good to go. Recleaned carb earlier and checked float. No difference. Car did backfire awhile back after updating the ignition components and it seems since then it's had this issue. Could there be an exhaust blockage or issue since then?

Plugs are black and sooty after just a few miles. Cleaned the carb and checked the float. All seems good. Cannot splice into the fuel line to check pressure as the line is steel.

I just removed, examined, readjusted and reinstalled the distributor and I'm still getting the chugging at 50mph. I did notice the "minor timing gauge" on the distributor bolt down plate, and didn't notice it before. Would that have enough of an effect slightly moving the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise according to the little gauge? Gonna go ahead and remove the carb, reclean and examine the float, and if that isn't it it's gotta be something in the ignition system.

I haven't gotten around to anything more yet. Going to start with readjusting the points I replaced. If that doesn't solve it I'll take the carb off and reclean and check everything. If that doesn't solve it I'll be at a loss.

Don't have any pics, perhaps in a few days. It's a limited I know, and I'm thinking power locks and windows, as well as AC and maybe a cassette. It's got a red toned cloth interior, not sure on power seat or not, but other than that it's been a couple years since I've really looked at it up close. I just know it's in pretty good shape for an 87. Not a turbo model or anything flashy, just a decent mid-level Regal.

Grandmother has a 1987 Regal Limited with the 3.8 v6 she's wanting to get rid of. Car has roughly 67,000 original miles and is in pretty good shape. Couple small spots of rust but nothing substantial; paint still looks good and when it wasn't garaged it was covered. Also has the vinyl top. Been awhile since I've seen it but I'm thinking it's black/dark grey with factory red pin striping. Runs well. Anyone have an estimate as to what the value may be?

Soaked air cleaner in kerosene most of the day. Did make a difference; car seems a bit more peppy, but up around 45-50 it still is stalling. Grabbed a fuel pressure gauge today, and then realized my hard fuel lines can't really be spliced into, and I don't have the additional hardware to fabricate a junction. I guess from here I'll have to take the carb off and check it out. Other than the carb it really can only be something within the ignition system I didn't get set just right.

The car ran great up until changing the points and condensor a few weeks back. That's when it did backfire once. I haven't ever seen the air filter, and I wasn't aware it had one from the looks of it. I'm guessing you may be referring to the oil lined can above the carburetor? It's been a year or so since I've drained and refilled that with fresh oil.

I did blow some air pressure back through the fuel line into the tank. I really doubting it's anything to do with the fuel tank or the lines, but ill pick up a vacuum gauge tomorrow and check the fuel pressure out of the fuel pump. Rebuilt the fuel pump a couple weeks back so hopefully that's no issue. Noticed the exhaust has a good amount of black smoke coming out, so it's definitely burning off plenty of fuel.

After replacing my brake lines I finally got the car back out on the road. Thing still wants to stutter and bog down at 50 mph; I have to be running too rich. I leaned out the fuel mixture with the screw on the side of the carburetor and it doesn't seem to do much of anything. The carburetor was completely cleaned and a new kit installed late last year.

Miss at idle appears to be gone. All valves were tighter than spec, especially the intake on cylinder 5. Letting the car idle for roughly an hour did push it up to roughly 200-205 degrees. Never seen it get that hot but it is idling in the garage with the doors open. I'm doubting they've ever been adjusted.

Perfect. Thank you!

Now trying to adjust valves. I've used a feeler gauge and I believe all of them are a bit tight as none will accept anything more than a .08 inch gauge, and even most of those have heavy drag when pulling the gauge out. I've got the wheel and inner fender cover off, and obviously the valve spring covers, but I'm having troubles confidently determining which valves are exhaust and which are intake. Anyone have a schematic/diagram showing the front to rear layout of the valves on a 251 six? My Chrysler shop manual doesn't do that great of a job specifically showing which valves are which. Thanks.

Put a rebuild kit in the fuel pump and a low pressure blast through the fuel line back to the tank. While putting the fuel pump to carb line back on I cockeyed the threads on the brass fuel pump outlet, which created a fuel leak at that brass outlet. Can those be found at parts stores or is there a good place to find those online?