chrysler49

Gotcha. Looks like the carb will be coming off.

I can rev the car as high as I comfortably want it to in the driveway, but under load in gear it cuts out. Visually the points are correct, but I'll go ahead and pull the distributor just to verify the gap again; easier off the car for me. When I first got everything back together on the car I did get a backfire, but nothing since. All the plug wires are correct and both the wires and plugs are all two years old. Could the backfire have forced crud back through the carb and/or fuel lines?

After cleaning the distributor, changing the condenser and points, my Windsor is running a tick worse than before. It now gets up to about 45 mph and just cuts out, starts chugging as if it's hitting a rev limiter. My assumption is that he timing is off and/or my points aren't adjusted right after reinstallation. I changed those parts to try and fix a slight miss I'm getting at idle, which is still there. I also invested in a compression gauge and this is what I found: 1 - 105psi 2 - 105 3 - 100-105 4 - 110 5 - 85 6 -105 The readings are all fairly consistent besides number 5. The engine has 78,000 miles and being a 1949 I'd say the readings are what I expected. Would anyone suggest that perhaps my number 5 cylinder could be a valve issue, and causing the miss I've had before and after the distributor adjusting?

Yeah, that's how the Chrysler manual is too. That's fine, but I still am struggling to find anything other than what I already have.

I can't find an actual Chilton Manual for a 1949 Chrysler. Only specific manuals I can find are the Chrysler shop manuals.

Are there any available manuals for my 1949 Windsor besides the Chrysler shop manual? I have a Haynes Manual for my old motorcycle and it is leagues ahead of the Chrysler manual in terms of detailed instructions and diagrams. Cannot seem to find anything besides the Chrysler one.

Yeah, that's what I figured. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't perhaps something catching that I wasn't aware of.

Car has spent it's entire life in Iowa. Don't think it would have the Canadian block, but I can't tell you it doesn't with absolute certainly. I have the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke.

Anyone find it nearly impossible to get the distributor pulled? I've got the vacuum line off, the cap off, and the lockdown plate bolt undone. I can pull the distributor back a couple inches, then it just wants to spin and won't budge any further. Shop manual gives no further explanation. I'm thinking my 49 Windsor's distributor is pretty similar....

My issue ended up being the connections on the relay. I was missing the ign feed wire to the IGN post on the relay itself. All is well in that department now.

Yeah, they worked prior to rewiring. I'm pretty sure I've got two switched around. The bottom right post is a specific connector, so the is verified correct, but the other three I'm not certain. Next time I'll take a pic before I take the old wiring off.

And the pic should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise.

Took off the horn relay and between wire brushing and steel wool I'm unable to find any labeling besides the brand on the side. Anyone be able to verify which post is indeed whic?

Excellent, and thank you!

It'd be the wire underneath the armored cable; directly next to the flasher. It's armored on the interior of the car, but not in the engine bay.

Also while i'm here, I installed Taylor Street Thunder 8mm plug wires a year ago but didn't change the coil to distributor wire at the time. I think It'd be beneficial to go ahead and change that, and I do have leftover 8mm wire from the plugs. Could I just assemble a coil-distributor wire from the same wires I used for the spark plugs? Thanks!

I don't think it's an add-on, and it's definitely the horn relay after I did a bit of rewiring. I am now facing the issue of the relay clicking, but the horn not actually working when I press the "button" on the steering wheel. The shop manual gives pretty vague explanation about how to read the four posts. I do have another mystery part question. In the photo below, what wire is jetting out of the firewall on the right side of the flasher relay? I'm guessing it may be the blinker wire, but would like verification. Chrysler shop manual is very poor at illustrating.

Awesome. Thank you!

Chrysler shop manual isn't quite helping me identify just exactly what the little electrical system box to the left of the voltage regulator is. Spitfire six engine. . I'm replacing some wiring and need to know where one of the vacant posts goes to.

I did polarize the regulator. I cannot 100% verify the wiring, but there is no current at the field post whatsoever. I'd think even with a bad wire there would be some current at the post....perhaps I'm wrong?

Car is running well, and my new motor mounts just shipped, but it seems I'm still having issues with my charging system. I had my generator tested and it was working fine, but I'm not getting any output through the field post on my voltage regulator. I replaced the original with a brand new BWD regulator, but the field post wasn't outputting any current so no charging. I exchanged that one tonight with a new one of the same model and it's the same deal. Anyone have an idea what I may be failing to do here?

A little bit off topic, but the generator in my 49 Windsor has the armature and field posts, but also a third wire attached that goes directly to ground. It the ground wire looks slightly out of place and the wire is definitely newer than the two original wires. Should this ground wire even be there?

I'm going to throw the pan back on this afternoon with the new gaskets, and know that the end gaskets must rise above the pan 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch, but the side gaskets are a bit long. Anyone else trim these slightly in order to get them to sit flat on the pan without pushing into the end gaskets, or should I tuck the excess down into the channel which holds the end gaskets?

You know of a place to purchase just the upper mounts? The lower ones are still in excellent shape.

I just got it. The second stud had no bolt head, so I ended up using a tiny vise grips and reversing it out. What a pain. This job would have been MUCH easier just removing the tie rod, or having a lift which would give you much easier access. I'm a weekend mechanic in training so it's all new to me. I can do everything but fully dismantle a motorcycle engine bolt by bolt, but autos are a a bit more foreign to me. Cannot imagine doing all this on something recently manufactured. Should be easier to reassemble now, especially considering the degree with which I plan on cleaning the pans and the undercarriage.