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Need 38 Zephyr coupe bottom trim pics


Beltfed

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I have found a source for the correct running board/skirt trim. I will need to have it formed and the ends made. At $12.00 a foot I don't want to screw it up. Can someone post or email me a couple of pictures of their trim, especially the ends, so I can get it right. Thanks.

kennardb@knology.net

Bob, Haven't heard from you in a good while. Well , here are several pics of my lower s.s. on my '38 conv coupe. This may take a couple of "E" mails Larry Butcher

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I have found a source for the correct running board/skirt trim. I will need to have it formed and the ends made. At $12.00 a foot I don't want to screw it up. Can someone post or email me a couple of pictures of their trim, especially the ends, so I can get it right. Thanks.

kennardb@knology.net

Bob, Just sent the pics, let me know if you got them. I can send the measurements if you need them. All of my trim was original, just had to be straightened out and polished---Larry

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Guest 65Starfire

I noticed that the skirt appears to have rubber welding. My 39 has a leather strip that is riveted in place is the rubber correct or a better idea?

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I noticed that the skirt appears to have rubber welding. My 39 has a leather strip that is riveted in place is the rubber correct or a better idea?

Starfire, When I pulled this car out of a barn July of 1972, it was original, but rough. The fender skirts had black rubber gaskets riveted on. I put the same type back on; but years later.

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Thanks Larry. You are one of the few who is willing to "step up to the plate" for us, the unknowing. Could you get me a close up pic of the trim on the front fender and that should do it with this part of the puzzle. I spoke with a local shop today about bending the trim and forming the ends. They said no problem, as long as they know what it it looks like. These two brothers, the "Barillaro Speed Emporium"", helped restore a friend of mine 1932 Ford boat tail speedster. A one of one car. It is already starting to win specials awards, the latest from Edsel Ford himself.

sidebar: I have decided that the gasket at the bottom of your doors will work much better than what I ordered from Boos. I expect receiving the material today from Steele and will install later this week. Getting ready to pull the rear axle off and deal the the two speed rear end and the transmission. Don't go anywhere, I will need your help getting through this.

thanks

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Thanks Larry. You are one of the few who is willing to "step up to the plate" for us, the unknowing. Could you get me a close up pic of the trim on the front fender and that should do it with this part of the puzzle. I spoke with a local shop today about bending the trim and forming the ends. They said no problem, as long as they know what it it looks like. These two brothers, the "Barillaro Speed Emporium"", helped restore a friend of mine 1932 Ford boat tail speedster. A one of one car. It is already starting to win specials awards, the latest from Edsel Ford himself.

sidebar: I have decided that the gasket at the bottom of your doors will work much better than what I ordered from Boos. I expect receiving the material today from Steele and will install later this week. Getting ready to pull the rear axle off and deal the the two speed rear end and the transmission. Don't go anywhere, I will need your help getting through this.

thanks

Beltfed, Give me a little time and I'll get the pic you need. Larry

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Originally, fender and skirt weltings were painted body color. On your fender skirts, which get moved around a fair amount, instead of painting the black rubber and waiting for the paint to inevitably crack off (which it will), you might consider getting vinyl weltings molded in the color you need. That's what I did for my fender skirts after the painted rubber ones started to look shabby, and I'm very pleased. The vinyl weltings have a slight grain to them, but it's really not that noticeable.

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Beltfed, Give me a little time and I'll get the pic you need. Larry
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Beltfed, I'am sending another picture which may give a little more detail. I sent my lower trim out to have the dents removed, 1 h welded ; and polished.Shipped them in 6" PVC pipe wtih the ends taped up with duct tape. They came back in near perfect condition, were almost straight, no bends to match the curve of the running boards. I made my own clips and started at the"break" between the running board and fender skirt. By drawing up slowly on the nut & stud which was welded to the clip; the curves came right back in and finished out just fine. Larry

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  • 1 month later...

I found extruded aluminum trim that has almost exactly the same profile as original. It might be used as boat trim. I shaped the trim to fit the car. I very carefully drilled and tapped the back side, being careful not to drill through the trim, then installed 1/4 20 studs. Get the trim unanodized so it can be polished. You might be surprized how good this looks.

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Got some more info on trim. Got it from Extrude A Trim. There was two sizes a few years ago that would work. I put a 10/24 screw in wire cutters, then screwed the whole works into the tapped hole in the trim. Then squeeze the wire cutters to cut off the head, and now you have a stud that you can put a nut on. I did put a small amount of epoxy in the threaded hole first. One of the pics shows how to bend width of the trim to follow the running board vertical curve. To bend the depth of the trim where it follows from rear fender to running board is not as hard because the trim is only about 3/16 thick. Bend it over something like a six inch tube. Hope that helps.

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Zephyrdave,

I looked at their website catalog. It looks from your pics that you used half oval bar. Their catalog doesn't list anything wider than one inch. The original trim is 1-16" I believe. Not a big deal. How did you get around the 250 pound minimum order size and is there a problem of getting it into the states as they look to be our northern friends?

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