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Cross Country with Kids in a '41 Connie


rockitdoc

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The trip from NC to Denver, CO was delayed a week due to a repair required in the lower radiator tank. Repair is done and test driving is scheduled for today and tomorrow to shake anythin else loose that might strand us.

In previous posts I described the car my father restored over the past 20 years and my looking after her from now on. I decided to drive her the 1800 or so miles back to Colorado instead of sujecting her to the indignity of a trailer journey. Many repairs later (NOS starter, outside mirror, windshied wiper gear, new rear bearing and seal, alignment, new distributor bushings andother inerds, air cleaner top, fluids all round, five tires, battery, overdrive solonoid, new radiator core, hoses, and belt) and she should be ready for a little drive.

My 8 and 10 year old sons are coming to help push, if need be.

Driving only roads that were available in 1941 whenever possible so we come in contact with more folks along the way. Maybe they'll put down they're iPods/Pads/phones long enough to notice. Probably.

We start on Sunday 6-9 if things work.

Scott Shuler

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Good luck and post a ton of pics at road side attractions!

Still stuck. Can't get her to crank fast enough to fire. Thought it was starter; replaced it with NOS (old brushes pretty worn). Then thought battery; replaced with new (old one wouldn't hold charge). Shop working on her now thinks starter motor is binding with flywheel causing too much friction and won't turn Came to this conclusion when starter was loosened and ran easily. But, now, won't turn her over. When she starts she runs VERY smoothly like she should. Turns over very easily by hand. I'm skeptical about binding and will suggest by-passing starter relay and dash button to see if it's a grounding issue with the button or relay.

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Guest 65Starfire

Do you have heavy enough cables? There was a discussion on another thread going through this same issue - check it out...

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Do you have heavy enough cables? There was a discussion on another thread going through this same issue - check it out...

Yeah. I think that was me. Got 0 ga cable for negative side (about the size of Rosie Greer's thumb) and wide braided strap for pos. Should be good there. I really think it's the ground from the starter button or the starter, itself. At least, I hope that's it. Simple first, then go complicated. I've learned that the hard way over and over again. :)

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Well, cables were 0 ga, fabricated from copper from welding shop. Problem was the one we purchased for the connection yo starter from relay. It was 0 ga but NOT copper. Buyer beware, i guess. Cranks great, now with real copoer all the way from batt to starter.

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Get a 6 volt OPTIMA battery to solve the battery problem. I believe AdvanceAuto has them. you can also order thru www.amazon.com. Be safe and have a great trip with the kids. Will generate countless hours of enjoyment. Keep your LZOC membership directory with you. Call if you need help.

That's what I had and it shorted out. I used them for years in a total loss vintage race car with much happiness. Now, I'm told they don't work as well for this purpose. I dunno. I'm not sure I ever received a membership directory. Can I get one online?

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Scott, you need to be member of LZOC. Print out a membership application from this website. In the meantime, borrow one from your Dad Bill. He was still a member in the 2012 LZOC directory.

Hmm. I thought I was. Old timers. I get the magazine.

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Got starter to spin the motor, now. Turns out the flywheel and starter gear binding was dragging down starter and battery. Shimmed it. Works.

However, now one of the water pumps is leaking past the shaft. Will replace both pumps tomorrow. Maybe depart for Colorado on Wed after driving her around locally on Mon and Tues to see if anything else needs repairs.

This may be more adventure than I was looking for. A good lesson for my kids...

Now, where would my Dad have put that LZOC membership directory???

Edited by rockitdoc (see edit history)
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Update. Water pumps from V8 flathead Fords don't fit V12 Lincolns. OK, now I know. So, correct pumps coming tomorrow (Tues) along with a fuel pump (just in case) and will go into car on Tues/Wed depending on when the pumps arrive. Earliest departure now tentatively set for Thurs.

Good news is, this car will have lots of new stuff on her that will eliminate all kinds of questions in case she breaks down in the Toolies.

Wish I could find that LZOC membership list..... :)

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Guest Jim Zephyr

Make sure the gas tank is in good shape and not producing rust or anything else that could cause carb problems. Do you have a filter on the line and/or an electric fuel pump?

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Make sure the gas tank is in good shape and not producing rust or anything else that could cause carb problems. Do you have a filter on the line and/or an electric fuel pump?

I have no idea how the fuel tank was restored, but an electric pump is going on today for insurance against vapor lock and potential mechanical pump failure. I had not thought about a filter. Good idea.

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Guest Jim Zephyr

Some of those fuel pumps have filters, but I would install another right before the mechanical fuel pump. I have been sliding back the fitting and running the tube over the stock line, easily undone. The see thru filters work well. Hooking the electric fuel pump up to the cold side of the ignition switch with toggle is best. I am told low pressure models are best 1.5 to 3 psi for safer operation.

Edited by Jim Zephyr (see edit history)
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I have my pump under the car just ahead of the tank, wired to igntion, but with a momentary button

under the dash which allows me to only operate it on rare occasions, or for initial startup, preventing that long crank

to restore fuel to carb...It is the only...and I fought it for years, modern add on I have on my car..but it is

really nice on a 95 degree day, jump off freeway, restart then invariably stalls 1/2 mile down the road from

vapor..hit button..for a few seconds..back on the way ...I have left it on occasionally by accident with no issue..Some folks insist on

a regulator but I have not..

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Update.

Put both new/rebuilt water pumps in and did a complete heat cycle. Drove her around a bit, came back to shop to see the right pump leaking from around the shaft. :(

Got another pump (from a different source, this time) air freighted in over night and by the time I got to the shop with the newest pump, the left pump we put in yesterday was also leaking from around the shaft. Double :(

Someone is trying to tell us something.

I hate to quit, but this is taking too long and we have to get back to our real lives. Plus, I can't afford to keep FedEx in business this way.

Car will go west to Colorado aboard a trailer, me and the kids will fly.

Probably the smart move, in the end. Best not to break down in the Toolies. When I get the car to my shop in Colorado I'll start the process of going through her piece by piece, getting familiar with her workings and driving locally. Long road trips may happen, but I suspect, in the company of other like-minded old car folks where support is available, if needed.

PS: the pumps both failed under atmospheric pressure. Radiator cap was not pressurized.

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