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1952 special first time fire up


flintbuick

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Guest shadetree77

Awesome. Gotta' love it. I love running my old straight eight without the valve cover and seeing all the moving parts working in time together. At least until she starts slinging hot oil at my face.;) Kinda makes me want to invent a clear valve cover. Like all those clear show cars that were made back in the day. Thanks for taking the time to post.

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It was a rather exciting moment to hear it run for the first time after working on it for 9 months. When i got her the head was in the trunk with a machine shop tag from 1993. It had 2 cracks in the combustion chambers. I used a different head with new guides and reground valves/seats. Threw new rings and rod bearings in her too.

Now that i have here running i am working on making her stop. I am going to a Willwood dual output dual resevoir but keeping the factory drums. The original master was pitted beyond use and i couldn't see spending the money to repair the single circuit when for the same money i could upgrade to a dual. Welding up the bracket and drilling holes tonight to mount it exactly where the old one was using the original holes.

I also dropped in a 2 core all aluminum radiator after a local repair shop wanted 650 to repair the original. Im honestly not to thrilled about the shiny and pretty Aluminum tanks but nothing a can of flat black rattle can won't cure. Im still on the fence about that one. However Champion guarantees this radiator to cool up to 500 hp. The 49 to 52 Desoto/chrysler radiator is almost the same exact dimensions just had to drill a few holes in the mounting flanges of the radiator. Nothing that i have done is permanently altering the car, if i ever get rich or decide to be a purist i can go back to OEM parts. I plan on driving this old girl a lot and brakes and cooling are pretty important to me.

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Guest Beanie1

Very cool Flintbuick....my name is Beanie and I too just bought my first 1952 Buick Super (straight 8, 3 spd.) Style 52-4519 (Riviera from what I've been told). I am responding to give you a thumbs up, but to begin research on what it's going to take to get this thing safe, dependable, and presentable on the stringiest of a shoe-string budget. I don't want to build a 'rat-rod' but I am not a purist either. My goal is to use the Buick as part of my business, which may include ferrying some people (hence, safe, dependable and presentable) from place to place while they are dressed in their finery. I have a few areas to address: 6v to 12v conversion (to be able to run some modern safety items i.e. flashers, dependable turn signals, etc as well as comfort amenities such as a hidden music system and jacks for a possible computer/I-electronic input); spec info on suspension parts to avert the extremely high cost of the knee/lever type shocks (I was wondering if anyone has ever engineered/installed modern tube-type shocks on a '52??? or has utilized a different (late-model) spring to replace the expensive ones I see for sale by the 'Buick specialty houses'??; Finally, is there/has anyone found a way to replace any of the glass/door weatherstripping/windshield gaskets with a reasonable facsimile that doesn't hit the $2000 mark. If you or anyone else who reads this can help me in anyway and hopefully not be offended by my thoughts and wishes to put a great old Buick back into service with the least possible cost...I would really appreciate any guidance/advise/help you can provide. Thanks..........B

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Guest kaycee

Sounds like my first car, a '49 Chevy, and right before I became a Buick man, adjusting the valves with a couple of wrenches and feeler gauges with the engine idling and slinging oil at your eyes. FUN!!!

kaycee

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Often the shocks just leak out the oil. Try filling them back up and see how long they hold. Otherwise a rebuild from old buick parts.com will cost 150 a shock. I doubt retrofitting a modern tube shock would be any cheaper. The front knee shock is incorporated into the A arms so removal isn't an easy option without an entire new suspension upgrade. 12 Volt? I guess but other than running 12 volt accessories a properly maintained 6 volt system is just as effective. However if you don't want to spend a lot of money converting to 12 volts in my opinion wouldn't be the way to go. Rubber isn't cheap you are right. You could try using some sealant on window glass but that would be a temporary fix at best. Otherwise try looking for new seals at Bobs Automobbilia and Steele rubber products. Blinkers should work fine if not then more than likely you have rotted cloth wires that are either shorting to ground or are green with high resistance. As for safety I felt the best upgrade was going to a tandem master cylinder. A single circuit will work fine if all the lines and wheel cylinders are replaced. However i liked the peace of mind of knowing if there is a failure a dual master will still retain half the brakes. Seat belts might also be a consideration if you are driving a lot of other people. However it is your car do as you wish this is just my opinion.

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