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Truck glovebox liner for a '46 Champion?


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The M series truck used an instrument panel that was very similar to the Champions. Studebaker International offers a replacement glove box for the truck but doesn't mention the car. Does anyone know what the difference would be? Mine was so soaked and stained with mouse pee that it has been out of the car since it arrived.

Despite the cold I have been making progress. This car may come to life by summer!

Thanks all,

Justin

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The boxes have different part numbers for the M trucks and Champions, but the instrument boards (dash) are so similar, I'll bet the M truck box will fit. It's got to be better than what you have; and it's only cardboard, so easy to modify if needed. You may need to take your front seat completely out in order to get your body into position to see what needs to be done. It's much easier when the whole dash is out of the car, the way the factory did it.

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Great info from you both. I have a bunch of under dash stuff to do and most of the interior is in the basement getting stripped, shampooed, and restuffed where needed. I used to be a lot more flexible for this and it seems I never have the right glasses on to focus on what I need. I want to dissect the instruments for a cleaning and replace the temp gauge since it is the wrong one. I'll be under there for some time before and after York. I am bringing the transmission with me for that trip. Today I reassembled the defroster backwards after I washed the muck out if it and it was sucking where it should have been blowing. I was tempted to build a vintage looking Studebaker factory accessory built-in and on-board vacuum cleaner but thought better of it.

Thanks for your help,

Justin

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The glove boxes are different. For whatever reason Studebaker used hinges on the end of the door for cars and "gooseneck" hinges that come out of the bottom front edge of the glovebox for trucks. That said I would bet the only difference between the two is the slots for the gooseneck hinges. The good news is Loga makes a reproduction box.

If the old box is not torn or too badly crushed the CASO fix would be to scrub it out very well, dry it, then spray paint the inside flat black. It would look like a new one.

Nathan

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The glove boxes are different. For whatever reason Studebaker used hinges on the end of the door for cars and "gooseneck" hinges that come out of the bottom front edge of the glovebox for trucks. That said I would bet the only difference between the two is the slots for the gooseneck hinges. The good news is Loga makes a reproduction box.

If the old box is not torn or too badly crushed the CASO fix would be to scrub it out very well, dry it, then spray paint the inside flat black. It would look like a new one.

Nathan

Here you are once again coming to my rescue. Thank you. I was getting ready to peruse your pages to see if there were any hints for taking the transmission out. My old '53 didn't have the x members to get in the way as the '46 does.

I really appreciate your very specific knowledge and the willingness to share it.

Justin

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Thanks! According to my wife I am a legend in my own mind.

My crossmember is bolted in so you can either remove it entirely or just leave it on the tranny. I don't have a hoist so I put the car on stands, pull the driveshaft, put a jack under the transmission, remove the crossmember bolts, the lower the engine a couple inches so onto a milk crate with some old carpet on top. You don't have to go down far to get to the bolts and the transmission slides right out. Extra hands are helpful. You should probably disconnect the exhaust pipe, oil gauge line, etc before you drop the engine. Don't lower then engine any farther than you have to because the oil will start running out the back of the tranny and if you go too far the block will hit the firewall. There is an access panel in the floorboards but I think this is more useful if you have to get to the bell housing bolts. I can get to all 4 transmission bolts from beneath no problem.

Nathan

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Thanks! According to my wife I am a legend in my own mind.

My crossmember is bolted in so you can either remove it entirely or just leave it on the tranny. I don't have a hoist so I put the car on stands, pull the driveshaft, put a jack under the transmission, remove the crossmember bolts, the lower the engine a couple inches so onto a milk crate with some old carpet on top. You don't have to go down far to get to the bolts and the transmission slides right out. Extra hands are helpful. You should probably disconnect the exhaust pipe, oil gauge line, etc before you drop the engine. Don't lower then engine any farther than you have to because the oil will start running out the back of the tranny and if you go too far the block will hit the firewall. There is an access panel in the floorboards but I think this is more useful if you have to get to the bell housing bolts. I can get to all 4 transmission bolts from beneath no problem.

Nathan

I will start on this over the weekend. Thank you for the procedure.

I had considered shellacking or fiberglassing the old glovebox and trimming the edges for fresh attachment points, but it just smells so bad and looks so stained that I am starting fresh. In single digit temps it would be OK, but come summer humidity I know it will find a way to remind me of what I started with.

I'll let you know how the tranny removal goes.

Thanks again,

Justin

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